maybe beaten to death, but my e brake.. I could care less about..... and both calipers are sticky. not the bushings.. the pistons won't pull back after applying the brakes. I can rebuild them, but what if the piston mechanism is bad ( 99% probability?) CAN i do the Grand am mod to ONLY the rears..???? I've read just about everything on the web 2 times and can't decide to take a chance on rebuilt calipers OR just do the grand am mod..??
alternatively, could i not just rebuild the caliper/ caliper bushings.. and not hook up the cable? maybe im overthinkin this lolol But doesn't the piston initially adjust by using the e-brake???
[This message has been edited by barnbiketom (edited 04-13-2018).]
You can put Fiero front brakes on the rear. That is what I did because my e-brake was trashed and didn't want to fix it. Buy a front Passenger Right and front Driver Left and put them on the rear. Improved braking power slightly. Keep in mind you may need to turn down your rear rotors slightly to get the pads to fit because I believe the rear rotor may be a little thicker. Been running this way for almost 10 years.
Thanks, I didn't realize that. I'll look into it. Also m considering Grand am calipers and rotors with the CHEAPEST pads, so as to not upset the bias as much. The GA stuff is bolt on and has vented rotor..🤔
It's an ok system when it works. Like 30 years ago. I've read where 90% of rebuilt calipers have bad, non working pistons in them...so what to do?🤔🤔
1987 GT with 30,000 miles on stock brakes other than DOT 5 and stainless brakes lines will lock up Firestone Indy 500 summer tires. Very sticky tires. My e-brake has always worked. I have owned the car for nearly 20 years and over 40,000 miles. Proper maintenance.
Your condition of the piston not pulling back sounds more like an issue with the brake hoses than the caliper. Hoses can get old and internally swell causing a check valve type issue.
Your condition of the piston not pulling back sounds more like an issue with the brake hoses than the caliper. Hoses can get old and internally swell causing a check valve type issue.
There's an easy way to test if the brake hose or caliper is bad. Open the bleeder valve, and push the brake pedal. If brake fluid squirts out, then the hose is fine (i.e. bad caliper). If little or no brake fluid comes out, then there's restriction in the brake line... probably a collapsed hose as mentioned above.
There's an easy way to test if the brake hose or caliper is bad. Open the bleeder valve, and push the brake pedal. If brake fluid squirts out, then the hose is fine (i.e. bad caliper). If little or no brake fluid comes out, then there's restriction in the brake line... probably a collapsed hose as mentioned above.
This is a good test but not 100% conclusive. I have had two hoses in my time that allowed pedal (high) pressure through but would not return to static or no pressure on the caliper piston. Both times it was a hose that had a metal bracket near the center that bolted to the upper a arm or strut. The bracket had rusted enough it was pinching the hose. Opening the bracket with a screwdriver allowed the hose to flow properly which I then replaced the hose.
Thanks, I didn't realize that. I'll look into it. Also m considering Grand am calipers and rotors with the CHEAPEST pads, so as to not upset the bias as much. The GA stuff is bolt on and has vented rotor..🤔
You will upset bias by using GA on rear only. If you go GA on all four corners with early 90's Blazer M/C you will have good bias.
fix the system and use Wagner TQ or other premium pads sold thru AZ and other local stores and hoses w/ SAE J1401 "rubber" Hoses have DOT and SAE J1401 printed on the hose. Hoses only have DOT label isn't same but cost is nearly the same for low grade part. see //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/129208.html Likely need new PB cables etc too. New cables are better then OE even when they were new.
"Full" GA "upgrade" does little and have many problems but many still push that crap including TFS. GA rear only is outright dangerous no matter who claims can make it safe. See my Cave, Brake Upgrade
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
fix the system and use Wagner TQ or other premium pads sold thru AZ and other local stores and hoses w/ SAE J1401 "rubber" Hoses have DOT and SAE J1401 printed on the hose. Hoses only have DOT label isn't same but cost is nearly the same for low grade part. see //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/129208.html Likely need new PB cables etc too. New cables are better then OE even when they were new.
"Full" GA "upgrade" does little and have many problems but many still push that crap including TFS. GA rear only is outright dangerous no matter who claims can make it safe. See my Cave, Brake Upgrade
Here is a thread with part #s for new rear caliper pistons. Good pistons are the key to good rear calipers as far as I am concerned. The next time I have to rebuild a stock caliper I am going to put a new piston in it.