Since I am rebuilding my decklid hinges, I noticed that the plastic bushing on the end of the hinge pin has deteriorated and needs replacement.

This is the plastic bushing that supports the forward inner corner of each decklid vent.

10 mm OD x 8 mm ID x 24 mm length

What is the standard replacement parts source for this?

I could order some nylon rod, then turn it on the lathe, but there has to be a more straightforward way.

I used heat-shrink tubing. I had to build up 2-3 layers to get the right diameter.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-26-2018).]

That's a very good idea.

I will be sure to use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing, so it sticks onto the pin and does not slide off. Since I sandblasted my decklid hinges (including the pin), the adhesive should have a good "tooth" to bite onto the surface of the metal.

I just measured some 3/8" heat shrink tubing (from the package, not shrunk), and it had a wall thickness of around 0.6 mm, so two layers ought to be about right.

Other things I like about this idea:
Heat shrink can handle engine bay temps
Is an economical solution
Fast to implement
It has the right amount of squishiness to support the decklid vent slot firmly, but not too rigidly.

I have a slightly different situation; I have a 1985 SE V6 (Notchy) and converted to 86-88 GT rear quarters.....When I installed the vents they rattled a bit, so I ended up using some rubber vacuum hose, forcing it over the "Hinge pin" ends....No rattles anymore.....(Obviously, this is not a stock look!)

I think that there was the original design of decklid hinge, and then a redesign due to durability issues with the first.

Fastback/notchback had nothing to do with it.

If you had rattles, it's probably because the slots in the vents were worn (from rubbing, vibration) larger than they were originally.

Rubber vac hose here. When installing use just a bit of super glue inside tube to keep it in place as the tube will get loose at times.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: I used heat-shrink tubing. I had to build up 2-3 layers to get the right diameter.

X2

Bare stud:


Broken sleeve with the layers of heat shrink


Installing the heat shrink tube:


Stud with 3 layers of heat shrink tubing:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 03-03-2018).]

On my 85 SE I wrapped it in electrical tape. No more rattles from there. I like the heat shrink idea as it would be cleaner.
Now if I can just find the rattle at 2800 rpms that is on the left side next to my head...

Even w/ OE plastic on the "pins" use Heat Shrink helps them.
My Plastic was crack years age and I added HS over that and shrink them and been there ~20 years now.

OE ones crack up and finally fall out over time if you don't over wrap them. Both of mine started cracking before I found the problem.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Two layers of 3/8" heatshrink seems to have worked for me.

I made the heatshrink about 1/4" longer than necessary, and then trimmed the excess with a knife. I trimmed the excess each time I added a layer; I did not wait until the end to do all the trimming.

Final diameter is around 10.9 mm, without squishing the heatshrink sleeves.

Thanks guys.