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Fiero run, but electronics don't work. by D43DLU5
Started on: 01-21-2018 04:16 PM
Replies: 16 (286 views)
Last post by: cliffw on 02-12-2018 09:26 PM
D43DLU5
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Report this Post01-21-2018 04:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello everyone,

I have a 1984 Fiero SE with A/C. While driving it, the radio started to flicker on and off rapidly before dying out completely. This was accompanied by some sort of clicking noise coming from behind me. Not sure what it was but my gauge cluster and engine were still running fine. Fast forward to the next morning, start up the car fine, but I find out that NOTHING electrical works now! (Headlights, brake lights, marker lights, interior lights, hazards, windshield wipers, basically everything except reversal lights.) My needles on the gauge cluster still operate and the car is able to drive like a champ.

I have checked the fuses and they all look fine. Have not yet checked the battery, alternator is brand new and I have rewired and replaced temp sensors in the engine compartment. Does anyone know where I need to start looking? Electrical isn't really something I'm too comfortable to play with as I am still learning to work on cars in general. Any advice is much appreciated. I have a few issues I am still working on but this has me at a complete standstill.

Thanks!
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Gall757
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Report this Post01-21-2018 04:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome to the Forum!

Check for a loose connection on the starter. If they are all tight, look for a fusable link at the starter that is discolored or deformed.

(this advice is for the 84 only... )

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 01-21-2018).]

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D43DLU5
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Report this Post01-21-2018 04:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you!

I've come to realize that the 84 always seems to be the tricky one...

Even though little things like the radiator fan not existing for the A/C Fiero has been a fun ordeal, still love the car!

I'll give the starter a check soon as I can and I'll update once I do.
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D43DLU5
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Report this Post01-22-2018 10:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
UPDATE:

I've jacked up the '84 and taken a look at the starter. I can't figure out a proper way to get to it but upon looking at it, there seems to be a cable that looks like it has split in half and is disconnected. I will have to try and get a picture but I just cant seem to get a good view on it.

What is the best way to reach the starter? I read in the Haynes manual (Waiting on my factory service manual to come in) that I need to remove the Cat Converter splash shield. What is that and how do I remove said shield?

From what I saw, I saw 3 wires to the Starter. There was a reddish wire, a cable wrapped in foil (positive battery cable?) and then a wire that may or may not have been wrapped in electrical tape that was exposed at the ends. They were close together but disconnected. Probably corroded away and sparked itself to a cut. I just need to get closer to the starter so I can get a better view.
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Report this Post01-23-2018 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you don't know about fusable links, do some searching here on PFF. It's important to get that replaced properly and track down the source of the power drain.....(possibly the headlight motors).
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Report this Post01-23-2018 11:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Disconnect the Battery! If you short the starter end of battery cable then the battery can dump 300+ amps and make bigger problems and even cause a fire or explosion.

84 Fusible Links can and will die of "old age" alone because insulation get "old" by heat from cat etc then "water" will "eat" the wire inside.
So you still need to check for other wiring problems but very likely you find nothing wrong for any car w/ same FL setup. I and many others fix many old GM cars for same problem and why GM moved them starting ~85.

See my Cave, Wire Service, Alternator Sense and other related pages.

To check FL loads is best to buy/rent/borrow AC/DC Amp Clamp meter.
Many Clamps only read AC current on the Clamp but they do make DC units too. Look to spec etc for a meter... DC Amps ≥100a, many are ≥300a, is read by clamps. 10-20a only then is using a "shunt" inside and likely too small to read FL loads when HL Blower etc are on.

You do not need to remove the starter. only a nut on the solenoid. Do Not twist the "bolt' there. Twisting can wreck the solenoid contact inside.
Often can reach solenoid bolts from the top. many pull left side cover/vent to get more room.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

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D43DLU5
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Report this Post01-25-2018 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
(mispost)

[This message has been edited by D43DLU5 (edited 01-25-2018).]

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D43DLU5
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Report this Post01-25-2018 11:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

D43DLU5

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I was finally able to get a view on them. Looks like both my wires on the top bolt of the solenoid are bad. You can see the one that is broken in the images.









Now I just got to figure out what type of wire or fusible link, where its going, and where to find said wires.

Starting to wonder if I'm in over my head here...
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Report this Post01-26-2018 12:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wow thats some bad wiring for sure. Good thing nothing else happend with that.
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D43DLU5
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Report this Post01-31-2018 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I found new fusible links and I feel like I'm prepared now to replace the links. Can anyone tell me where I need to cut? I'm going to solder the link to some wire outside of the car, then splice the wires together. I'm running off the diagram from my factory manual that just came in, but I want to make sure I do it right. Any help is appreciated.
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Gall757
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Report this Post02-01-2018 10:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Go back to The Ogre's Fiero Cave drop down menu and look up 'Electrical_General_Wire Service_Fusable Links'
Click on the text that says....

The Ugly Details on fuse links.

and then look for: Installing a new link

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 02-01-2018).]

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D43DLU5
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Report this Post02-01-2018 09:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm a little confused...

According to the Metric to AWG conversion chart, a 16 gauge wire is the closest match, but according to The Ogre's replacement chart, you have to use an 18 to replace a metric 1?

The factory manual state that both fusible links that attach to the starter solenoid are metric 1. I ordered two 16 gauge links but it looks like I need AWG 18?
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Gall757
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Report this Post02-02-2018 09:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
To replace a fusable link, you need the closest match that is smaller than the original, not larger.....so 18 is correct
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D43DLU5
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Report this Post02-11-2018 09:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I ordered the wrong fusible links. Waited another week for the correct gauge links, now the ring connector doesn't fit on the bolt on my starter solenoid.

Do you guys know where I can find a proper fusible link? I feel like I have searched everywhere.
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Gall757
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Report this Post02-11-2018 10:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are some conversion charts that list the 16 ga. fusable link as 1 mm. It looks to be the GM standard.

https://shop.advanceautopar...ded-85621/22141316-P

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 02-11-2018).]

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D43DLU5
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Report this Post02-12-2018 06:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for D43DLU5Send a Private Message to D43DLU5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's back to life!

Thank you all for you your help! I managed to find some links at Napa, slid them right on and the car is back to life. All electronics back as they were before.

The wires look and feel like they've been burnt to a crisp, which makes me think there is an exhaust leak. I wonder if that has anything to do with the popping I'm hearing, but that will be another thread for another day.

Again, can't thank you all enough!
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cliffw
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Report this Post02-12-2018 09:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cliffwSend a Private Message to cliffwEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by D43DLU5:
It's back to life!


Heh, the Fiero, making mechanics out of men one man at a time !

Congrats.

I was going to say and still will, to always check your ground wires.
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