Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions
  Exhaust manifold leak & now electrical issues (Page 1)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version

This topic is 2 pages long:  1   2 
Previous Page | Next Page
next newest topic | next oldest topic
Exhaust manifold leak & now electrical issues by Cajun
Started on: 12-01-2017 05:20 PM
Replies: 71 (1612 views)
Last post by: Cajun on 10-04-2018 04:28 PM
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-01-2017 05:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have dropped the engine cradle to address what I had thought was an exhaust leak. It turns out be just that an exhaust leak. One exhaust stud had broken and another on the opposite end of the manifold was backing out. I was lucky enough to have all the bolts and studs come out, even the stud that was broken. Now, on to the real issues at hand.

For starters, I had mentioned to several of you on the forum that I would post photos once I started the work. So here we are.....

For the long story, short; this all started on my recent trip to attend Fierorama 22. Yes, I drove my 86GT from south Louisiana to St Charles, Illinois. What a trip. I must admit the car did not leave me on the road but had issues.

For starters, I noticed that I had lost 4th gear (4t60) on the morning after stopping at Cairo, Ill. over night. Ok, I say to self no big deal. A quick inspection of the engine compartment did not reveal anything of sorts. So on to Fierorama we go. Spent the three days attending the various events then headed home. Still no major issues to speak of other than no 4th gear and horrible mileage.

The car stayed parked in the garage for about two weeks before I attempted to start her up. Yeap, no dice with that. Had power when the key was first inserted an turned to start, but once I attempted to engage the started is sounded like I had a major electrical short.

Back tracking a bit to prepping the car for the cradle remove, etc.

I pretty much followed Toddster's "Removing a V-6 Engine - By the Numbers" for the cradle/engine removal. Where I did depart for his instructions is as follows:

1. I did not use a cherry picker of sorts to pick the car of over the engine.
2. I did not remove the rear trunk lid


My process was to elevate the front of the car by placing it on ramps, then securing the wheels.


For lifting the car I used 4x4 timbers cut to fit the car.


Here is a photo of the cradle/engine out of the car:


Once the engine was removed and I was able to check any possible damage here are some of the findings:

Below is a photo of the heat shield. Noticed the discoloration, that is material from a bulkhead electrical connector. The stud to the right is the one that was broken.



Here is a photo of the bulkhead electrical connector (fitting) that has melted material coming out of the fitting.




Photo of bulkhead fittings above the ECM:



Now for a couple or three questions regarding the bulkhead fitting in question:

1. Does anyone know what the fitting is called (arrow pointing to it)?
2. Are there any replacements for this fitting and if so where?
3. Does any of you have this fitting that would be willing to sell?
4. It appears the fitting comes apart, does anyone know for a fact that is does come apart and how to take it apart?


I have removed both exhaust manifolds without breaking any bolts or studs, save the one that was already broken. Good news there. The broken stud did come out without issues.

While I have the engine out and waiting for parts to arrive I thought I would clean up any loose ends, replace all wiring sleeves with high temp ones, replace the transmission filter and gasket while I'm at it.

My main concern at the moment is the bulkhead fitting and acquiring a replacement if at all possible.


IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
olejoedad
Member
Posts: 17904
From: Clarendon Twp., MI
Registered: May 2004


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post12-01-2017 10:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The bulkhead fitting (firewall pass-thru) is comprised of two interlocking shells with a comb shaped wiring loom inside. The wires are arranged in the loom and secured with hot melt adhesive, filling the cavity inside the fitting. Every Fiero made has two of them, so they are still out there, but a bit of a pain to take apart.

Heat is your friend.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-02-2017 04:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
olejoedad, well in my case heat was not my friend.

My problem is is the fact there are no or not many Fiero's running around where I live. In fact, I have not seen one one the road around c these parts in years.

IP: Logged
olejoedad
Member
Posts: 17904
From: Clarendon Twp., MI
Registered: May 2004


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post12-02-2017 08:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Heat is your friend when disassembling the pass-thru. A heat gun is needed to soften the hot melt glue filling the fitting.
IP: Logged
Gall757
Member
Posts: 10938
From: Holland, MI
Registered: Jun 2010


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 90
Rate this member

Report this Post12-02-2017 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cajun:

My problem is is the fact there are no or not many Fiero's running around where I live. In fact, I have not seen one one the road around c these parts in years.


If you ask in the MALL, you will find what you need. There are lots of Fiero parts packed away on garage shelves.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-02-2017 08:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
While I'm waiting on parts to arrive I've decided to continue my trouble shooting of the electrical system.

Stuff accumplished:

1. Ported both exhaust manifolds.
2. Removed bulkhead heat shield to access damaged wiring
3. Labeled damaged wires (cut out those damaged beyond repair)
4. Dressed wiring on engine

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-03-2017 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Gall757, appreciate the comment about possibly sourcing parts from the Mall.

I'm in the process of building a list of parts needed to make the necessary repairs. As for the bulkhead wiring pass thru, I'm in the process of doing a continuity test on the wiring.

IP: Logged
fieroguru
Member
Posts: 12111
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (45)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 257
Rate this member

Report this Post12-04-2017 12:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I use boiling water to heat up the bulkhead connector for disassembly. You make a little progress, heat it up some more, and repeat.

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-04-2017 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks fieroguru for the suggestion. That looks very doable if and when I get to the juncture. Hopefully not.

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-07-2017 07:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have done a little more work on my 86GT. I have removed the bulkhead heat shield to access the any damaged wiring.



My bad, I did not use automotive grade/type wiring when I added the added features. I have since ordered the correct wiring type. I also notice that the brake booster vacuum filter may be damaged from the excess heat.



I will be re-routing the new wiring to replaced the damaged wiring. The wiring is for:
1. Parking assist sensors and alarm
2. Backup camera
3. Transmission gauges (temp & pressure)
4. Engine bay temp sensor
5. Wing LED lights

My plan is to route the wiring from the rear of the car thru the driver side body frame cavity.


I have added an additional access point in the body frame cavity using a chassis punch.






Currently waiting for parts and material to arrive to continue repairs. In the mean time I'm considering replacing the existing ECM with a 1227727/16198260 ECM while the engine is out. To that end, I have begun splicing the wiring on the 1227727 ECM.

I realize that progress has been slow. I have been busy with other things besides I'm in no real rush. It's winter, the weather has been really nasty so no intent to drive the car any time soon.


IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-09-2017 11:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Project update report:

All necessary materials to affect repairs have been odered.

In the mean time, I have been cleaning up the engine bay area a bit and continue building a wiring harness for the 1227727 ECM.

[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 12-09-2017).]

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-13-2017 03:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
While I was waiting for parts and materials to affect the repairs to arrive I have decided to remove all the insulation from the firewall. Yuk, what a mess, 30 plus years of dirt and grim. Luckily there was no oil or grease embedded in the old insulation that made clean up easier. Replacement insulation has been ordered.






I have received notification from the various vendors that I have purchased parts and materials from that the parts & materials have been shipped. Now it's a waiting game.

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-20-2017 06:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have done a little more work on the repairs and rebuild. Most of the parts and materials for the repairs have arrived. Weather permitting I will begin the repairs.

Photos of my ported manifolds:







The firewall insulation template I had ordered from Fierosails arrived. I cur & trimmed the template according to provided instructions.

Photo of trimmed template on the new firewall insulation before being cut.



IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-25-2017 06:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did a little more work on getting the GT back in order.

Here is a photo of the new firewall insulation after it has been cut per the template. (Sorry for the quality of the photo)




Photo of the new firewall insulation installed.






I just need to complete trimming & taping the new insulation then begin the process of replacing everything that had been removed for the insulation install.

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-30-2017 09:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Progress has been slowed by holiday events, waiting on additional parts and the weather. It has been raining and the weather forecast for next week is not going to be very good.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-06-2018 04:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Didn't want the thread to disappear.

The weather has really been terrible, so not much progress to report.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-22-2018 07:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Resumed work on putting my GT back together yesterday. The weather hear is much warmer now and only to find that I do indeed have a broken exhaust bold on the rear exhaust manifold. Now I will have to go out an locate equipment/tools to remove the broken bolt.




It's just one bolt so that should too bad.



So much for a quick fix.

IP: Logged
gen2muchwork
Member
Posts: 861
From: dearborn, MI
Registered: Feb 2012


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-22-2018 07:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gen2muchworkSend a Private Message to gen2muchworkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cajun:
It's just one bolt so that should too bad.



So much for a quick fix.


Is it just me or does it look like someone tried to fix that already and broke an extractor or drill bit off in the hole?
Great progress so far. Hopefully it doesn't fight back too hard.

[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 01-22-2018).]

IP: Logged
Spadesluck
Member
Posts: 2069
From: Georgia
Registered: Jul 2016


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-22-2018 01:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Making good progress. Question, when you ported your manifolds did you have them welded on the outside first?
IP: Logged
Spadesluck
Member
Posts: 2069
From: Georgia
Registered: Jul 2016


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-22-2018 01:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Spadesluck

2069 posts
Member since Jul 2016
You may need to pull the head to fix that exhaust bolt hole. Looks like the extractor bit is stuck in there as well. Ouch
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-24-2018 08:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Spadesluck,

No I did not do any welding on the manifolds before porting.

As for the broken bolt, that was the way I found it. I have not yet attemped the extraction of the broken bolt. Hope to be making a trip to town today to purchase lelf hand drill bits and M8-1.25 dies.

[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 01-24-2018).]

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Spadesluck
Member
Posts: 2069
From: Georgia
Registered: Jul 2016


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-24-2018 12:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good luck with that. Hopefully you can save the threads. I plan on using studs when I put mine back together instead of the bolts.

[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 01-26-2018).]

IP: Logged
JMTUT
Member
Posts: 371
From: Ogden, UT USA
Registered: Oct 2017


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-25-2018 10:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JMTUTSend a Private Message to JMTUTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That broken bolt looks like it might be a tap when someone was trying to fix the threads. If it is, no drill will cut it as it is hardened steel.
you can use a tap extractor to get it out.

https://www.amazon.com/Walt...ywords=tap+extractor
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-26-2018 07:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Done a little more work on the GT yesterday. I have purchased a set of Left Hand drill bits (Harbor Freight) and a M8-1.25 tap/drill bit set (Home Depot).




I have chased the bolt holes on the back exhaust manifold with the exception of the top left one (the one with the broken bolt). That one have proven to be a bit stubborn. So far I have gone through no less than 6 drill bits of assorted sizes. Not sure what my options are at this point? No, I do not plan on removing the head!

Also began cleaning up the bulkhead/firewall. In that I mean I have tapped the edges of the insulation and began re-installing the parts that were removed to install the new insulation. Will provide photos once everything is back in place.

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-26-2018 07:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Cajun

1553 posts
Member since Dec 2003
JMTUT,

Thanks for the suggestion but that idea will not work as what ever is broken off it's broken even with the head surface.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-26-2018 12:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Cajun

1553 posts
Member since Dec 2003
Continuing to address the broken bolt/stud issue and after viewing countless YouTube videos I have ordered a set of tungsten rotary grinding bits and a set of diamond embedded drill bits.

These drill bits are scheduled to arrive around 5 Feb. So in the mean time I will continue addressing the firewall rebuild.

[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 01-26-2018).]

IP: Logged
Spadesluck
Member
Posts: 2069
From: Georgia
Registered: Jul 2016


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-26-2018 12:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The very last resort will propbably be taking the head off, sorry. However I hope that you can get it out without having to do that.

[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 01-26-2018).]

IP: Logged
Spoon
Member
Posts: 3762
From: Sadsburyville, PA. 19369 / USA
Registered: May 2004


Feedback score:    (16)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 61
Rate this member

Report this Post01-29-2018 10:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cajun:

Continuing to address the broken bolt/stud issue and after viewing countless YouTube videos I have ordered a set of tungsten rotary grinding bits and a set of diamond embedded drill bits.

These drill bits are scheduled to arrive around 5 Feb. So in the mean time I will continue addressing the firewall rebuild.



Some years ago I faced the same dilemma your in now. Tried everything you've tried and then some, plus my engine was still in the car. Your's is already out so you have a "bit" of an advantage. (some pun intended). The only thing that worked for me was a colbalt drill set from Harbor Freight. The rotary stuff and diamond embedded bits didn't touch it.

The colbalt bit went thru the broken off easy-out and stud like butter. Of course I had to pull the head and I used a drill press. Since then these are the only type bits I use for any kind of drilling.

If I were you before pulling the head I'd get one of these bits and try it. You should use some type of guide-plate for drilling on center such as the one in Rodney Dickman's kit for drilling out broken studs. Maybe his kit can handle broken off taps & easy-outs too, but the guide plate is important.

https://www.harborfreight.c...set-29-pc-62295.html

http://rodneydickman.com/ca....php?products_id=272

Spoon

------------------
"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-01-2018 04:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks Spoon for your comments. If the rotary bits or the diamond embedded bits do not do the job I will give your suggestions a go!

I did a little work on the GT yesterday while I'm waiting of the delivery of the various type of drill bits & rotary bits I had ordered to help remove a broken exhaust bolt and the weather was pretty descent. I replaced all the parts, pipes, fittings, etc. on the firewall that I had removed to gain access to be firewall to remove the insulation and do some clean up.






I also added an additional access point for all the additional (wiring that was melted) wiring going from the cabin to the rear of the car..

Photo with firewall heat shield in place.



In an earlier photo I showed where I had punched a hole in the left rear frame rail to be used as a wiring conduit of sorts. This photo illustrates the wire loom going into that access point.


Finally, a photo of my rats nest [an area behind the left rear wheel well where all the wiring from the rear of the car that I have added The wiring is for; rear camera, parking assist sensors, passive rear radar unit, transmission pressure & temperature sensors, etc.



I think while I have the engine out I will go ahead and replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor.

[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 02-01-2018).]

IP: Logged
gen2muchwork
Member
Posts: 861
From: dearborn, MI
Registered: Feb 2012


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-01-2018 07:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gen2muchworkSend a Private Message to gen2muchworkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Cajun:


Finally, a photo of my rats nest [an area behind the left rear wheel well where all the wiring from the rear of the car that I have added The wiring is for; rear camera, parking assist sensors, passive rear radar unit, transmission pressure & temperature sensors, etc.



I think while I have the engine out I will go ahead and replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor.



I would suggest using a different connector for your wires. I'd try to hit the junkyard for any waterproof connector with as many pins as you need, then solder/heatshrink or crimp on correct pins to fit the connector. Those white ones with the screws are going to cause problems down the road.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-01-2018 05:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Those are the same type of connectors I used before the melt down. For the most part those connectors were in the car for about 5 years without any issues. I will add this, the connectors are filled with dielectric grease.

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-07-2018 07:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
For the past few days I have been re-splicing all the wiring I had previously done to the 1227727/16198260 connectors. I am now using Teflon sheathed wire that can hold up to 600 degree temperatures (oil field grade). While the engine/cradle is our I figured I just as soon install the new 1227727/16198260 ECM. My location choice is forward of the battery location. Its the area in the photo high lighted with the red. I have already tested the location and I can place the ECM in the location.




Also, I have to relocate the battery power cable connection to allow the placement of the ECM. Yes, my battery is located in the front engine compartment.



Continue cleaning up the engine bay area. I secured the battery wires from the front that runs in front of the engine cradle attachment, right side. I have installed SS wire hold downs (clips) that I fabricated.




As I mentioned earlier I'm in the process of building a wiring harness for the 127727/16198260 ECM. I will be building two (2) wiring harnesses, one for the 2.8 and the other for a 3.4 that I'm rebuilding. But that is months away. For now I will concentrate on the harness for the 2.8. I have ordered a book from ebay that deals with harness building and specifically deals with sensor wiring.



In the mean time I'm dealing with the issue of the broken exhaust bolt/extractor. Various attempts have ended in failure. I have now ordered several Cobalt drill bits in various sizes to attack the problem. Failing that I do have a back up plan and it does not involve removing the head. While waiting for the drill bits to arrive I will continue tiding up the engine bay area, cleaning up the parts that were removed, replace the spark plugs and wiring.

Until next time.....
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-10-2018 03:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, I finally got tired of procrastinating about that broken exhaust bolt. So, one again I tackled the broken bolt. I have now confirmed that it's not a broken bolt but rather a broken tap ( I suspect left by the PO). I have tried every type of drill bit I could think of or that was suggested to me to use by others. All to no avail, so now I'm on to plan "D". My son if fabricating me an "L" bracket out of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" angle iron to be used as a means to secure the exhaust manifold to the head. On the head the area where the bolt is broken there is a bolt hold above and just left of the top exhaust manifold bolt. If all goes well it should work nicely and not look too out of place. Once installed and secure I will photograph and post.

I have gone ahead an installed the rear exhaust manifold unto the engine. The exhaust bolts are only snug for the moment. When I get the bracket installed I will torque down the exhaust bolts. I only did the rear manifold due to weather, raining. To do the front manifold I need to pull the engine out of the garage.



In the mean time and until the weather clears I continue to build the wiring harness and some engine bay area cleaning. Today I also noticed that under the driver side CV joint there was some grease that appear to have leaked out of the CV flex rubber joint. Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing the grease leaking from the CV joint (closest to the transmission)? I will ask the question about the leak in a new tread.

[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 02-10-2018).]

IP: Logged
Raydar
Member
Posts: 40685
From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country.
Registered: Oct 1999


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 460
Rate this member

Report this Post02-11-2018 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
FWIW, I had a situation similar to yours. Broken bolt. Broken EZ out. Broken cobalt bit. I finally bought a diamond tipped Dremel bit, that worked.
I made such a mess that I had to heli-coil the hole, but I did get everything out.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-15-2018 06:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The weather finally improved enough so I could pull the engine/cradle out from the garage to work on the GT. If it wasn't cold it was raining, finally got a break in the weather.

Pulled the engine/cradle out to attack the front exhaust manifold. Cleaned up the heat shield, removed 30 plus years of dirt and grim. Cleaned off the face of the head where the manifold attaches to the head. Before I re-assembled everything I had a look at the exhaust manifold gasket that had been removed from the manifold, looking for signs where the exhaust leak may be. Well, it was not where I thought it would have been, the area of the manifold where the broken exhaust bolts were. In that particular area I did not see any telltale signs of any heat trace. Upon a closer examination of the manifold I noticed a hairline crack on the inside of the left manifold flange. So now, I will take the manifold to my son so he can repair the crack. Another hiccup!



If you open the photo up a bit you will be able to see the crack.



In addition, the bottom left flange bolt hole is stripped. I have ordered a M10-1.25 tape in order to do the necessary repairs. In this case, Amazon is my friend.

While I was at it I noticed additional damaged wiring on the main wire loom from the starter area. I removed the heat shielding tape to gain access to the wiring so I could affect repairs to those wires that were burnt, cracked insulation or otherwise. I have ordered additional high temperature splice wire loom and heat shielding tape. Now once again it's a waiting game for the parts to arrive.



IP: Logged
Spadesluck
Member
Posts: 2069
From: Georgia
Registered: Jul 2016


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-15-2018 01:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That exhaust manifold should be welded on the outside. That will fix that crack problem. That's why I asked you earlier when you expanded your manifold if you had it welded before because there is not much holding those flanges on from the factory apparently.
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-15-2018 03:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Spadesluck, at the time I thought you were refereeing to welding when I did the porting.

My son said he would weld inside and out.

[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 02-15-2018).]

IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-21-2018 05:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm still working on the GT, it's just that life's issues get in the way and have to be addressed first.

I continue to work on building a wiring harness for the 1227727. Additional parts that I ordered have not yet arrived. The front exhaust manifold is in the shop getting repaired.

Oh, the GT shares the stable with another vehicle...................



IP: Logged
Spadesluck
Member
Posts: 2069
From: Georgia
Registered: Jul 2016


Feedback score:    (8)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-21-2018 09:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is that a vette I spy?

Life always gets in the way projects. Ha
IP: Logged
Cajun
Member
Posts: 1553
From: Youngsville, La., USA
Registered: Dec 2003


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post02-21-2018 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yep, a 65 327-325Hp 4-speed, w/air.
IP: Logged
Previous Page | Next Page

This topic is 2 pages long:  1   2 
next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock