Hey guys, not a huge issue just annoying sometimes. So im assuming all fieros came stock with a “tilting” gas pedal. I find it weird to drive sometimes going from my daily driver to this gas pedal. I eill either give it way to much or not at all (i think im pressing it but its just tilting) LOL Has anyone made their pedal not tilt? Or any suggestions on how to make it not tilt? Thanks
Something is wrong. Pedal should not tilt easy. Spring is hard to press to tilt the pedal. Pedal, cable and/or TB/TBI on engine have problems.
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Originally posted by liv4God: A little wd40 can make it move a lot easier
That is the worst thing you can do. Any wet lube will hold dirt and often attack the plastic = the pedal and "bearing" can wear or break and make bigger headaches.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Its not supposed to tilt??? What could be wrong?? I still get gas, dont see any problem there. Just sometime i wont press the pedal in, it will just tilt. This is annoying when startin from a stop because i have to pay a lot more attention to my clutch.
Has anyone made their pedal not tilt? Or any suggestions on how to make it not tilt?
Fieros were the first cars I owned that had gas pedals which didn't pivot on a floor-mounted hinge. Instead, Fiero gas pedals are suspended from above. Yes, it felt strange at first... but once you start positioning the ball of your foot on the pivot point of the pedal, it ceases being an issue.
Fieros were the first cars I owned that had gas pedals which didn't pivot on a floor-mounted hinge. Instead, Fiero gas pedals are suspended from above. Yes, it felt strange at first... but once you start positioning the ball of your foot on the pivot point of the pedal, it ceases being an issue.
Been driving it since march and i still cant get used to it. So yours doesnt tilt???
Been driving it since march and i still cant get used to it. So yours doesnt tilt???
I have multiple Fieros, and I can't honestly recall if the gas pedal "tilts" on any of them ... but I do recall that 20 years ago, I initially had a problem with how the gas pedal felt while driving my first Fiero. When I'm in my Formula tomorrow, I'll double-check to see how much (if any) the suspended gas pedal pivots on its mount.
I have multiple Fieros, and I can't honestly recall if the gas pedal "tilts" on any of them ... but I do recall that 20 years ago, I initially had a problem with how the gas pedal felt while driving my first Fiero. When I'm in my Formula tomorrow, I'll double-check to see how much (if any) the suspended gas pedal pivots on its mount.
All Fiero gas pedals tilt forward against a fairly stiff spring, as Ogre mentions above. As the pedal is depressed, the pivot enables the pedal to stay parallel with the bottom of your shoe while the top of the pedal gets closer to the rod it pivots on. When your foot is to the floor, the top of the pedal touches the rod.
I have an '84, an '86 and an '88; they're all the same. I'm 6'1" with a size 10 shoe; with my heel on the floor the pedal is depressed by the ball of my foot as mentioned by Patrick. If you're taller with longer legs and feet, you might be pressing on an unusual angle against the pedal above the pivot point resulting in a different pedal dynamic.
You could try putting a block of some kind between the pedal and the rod to prevent the pivoting to see if that helps.
Unless you mash the pedal to floor, most times the spring and pivot will hardly ever see a tilting pedal. Maybe some w/ very big feet can tilt more because foot hit very top of pedal.
The pedal spring is so stiff that the roller in my disable driver equipment will not push spring hit pedal near the top. (Sim to this, http://www.plfa.org/index.html but not portable.) Because the pedal rod will move easier then compressing pedal spring if pedal assembly, cable(s), etc, are good. (AT cars have TV cable and that cable or trans can have problems too that feedback all the way to the pedal.)
Can't easily find pedal effort specs. I think should be < 1 or 2 Lb for driving normally or you will get leg cramps etc and very fast. I don't have a small scale or load cell to measure my cars.
GM use same pedal design on other cars and trucks. Fiero pedal rod is like ∩ w/ right shorter then pedal side but Front engines have simple levers of stamp steel or rod.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-16-2017).]
You might want to look at the pedal itself. The pedal is made of a soft plastic/ rubber. The pedal just snaps on the rod that comes down from above. The attachment points on the back of the pedal can become weak and allow the pedal to shift to the side, or be very loose. The Fiero Store sells a aftermarket pedal that fits very well and doesn’t cost much. While at it lube the accelerator spring and pivot points above the pedal as well.
My car had the loose, tilting pedal at 49,000 mi. caused by bad attachment points on back of the OEM pedal. The FS pedal fixed the problem and after about 15,000 it still works fine. Really a simple fix.
You might want to look at the pedal itself. The pedal is made of a soft plastic/ rubber. The pedal just snaps on the rod that comes down from above. The attachment points on the back of the pedal can become weak and allow the pedal to shift to the side, or be very loose. The Fiero Store sells a aftermarket pedal that fits very well and doesn’t cost much. While at it lube the accelerator spring and pivot points above the pedal as well.
My car had the loose, tilting pedal at 49,000 mi. caused by bad attachment points on back of the OEM pedal. The FS pedal fixed the problem and after about 15,000 it still works fine. Really a simple fix.
My gas pedal never felt right in my 84 AT Indy. It's like all or nothing. Hard to modulate upon takeoff. It never hangs up, always returns to idle no problem. But is seems like it has a high threshold when it starts to open the butterfly. Not sure if it's related to the kickdown cable, the angle of my throttle linkage( Holley TBI installed) or if it's just a typical Fiero thing.
My gas pedal never felt right in my 84 AT Indy. It's like all or nothing. Hard to modulate upon takeoff. It never hangs up, always returns to idle no problem. But is seems like it has a high threshold when it starts to open the butterfly. Not sure if it's related to the kickdown cable, the angle of my throttle linkage( Holley TBI installed) or if it's just a typical Fiero thing.
Mine is the same. Deffinatly hard on take off with my clutch. Glad im not the only one who finds it awkward.
Sometimes the throttle body, at the butterfly valve, needs cleaning. If dirty with oil residue it will cause the butterfly to stick when you try to accelerate from idle. If you pull off the intake hose the crud that can collect at the butterfly will be obvious. Just use a can of throttle body cleaner ( CRC makes a good one) and a small solvent proof brush to clean the throttle body. Generally the Fiero throttle body runs pretty clean, but there are gasses in there during running and after shutdown that leave an oily residue in there that collects dirt and whatever.
You might also clean the throttle cable and all pivot points for the throttle while your at it.
Sometimes the throttle body, at the butterfly valve, needs cleaning. If dirty with oil residue it will cause the butterfly to stick when you try to accelerate from idle. If you pull off the intake hose the crud that can collect at the butterfly will be obvious. Just use a can of throttle body cleaner ( CRC makes a good one) and a small solvent proof brush to clean the throttle body. Generally the Fiero throttle body runs pretty clean, but there are gasses in there during running and after shutdown that leave an oily residue in there that collects dirt and whatever.
You might also clean the throttle cable and all pivot points for the throttle while your at it.
Okay thanks, will look at all that this weekend. Won’t hurt if i clean it anyway, probably hasnt ever been cleaned.
My throttle body is brand new, no carbon buildup at all (yet). The throttle linkage works smooth when operated by hand right at the TBI. The throttle cable seems to be smooth between the pedal and the TBI linkage. I guess this leaves the kickdown cable. Is there any way to really test that?
------------------ 1984 Indy Fiero
[This message has been edited by ag9123 (edited 11-17-2017).]
I'll double-check to see how much (if any) the suspended gas pedal pivots on its mount.
I didn't check my other Fieros... but on my daily-driver Formula, the gas pedal does not pivot on the arm where it mounts. It's possible it moves a tiny bit when it's being stepped on, but by hand it's quite rigid. As has already been suggested, a replacement pedal will probably solve your issue.
I didn't check my other Fieros... but on my daily-driver Formula, the gas pedal does not pivot on the arm where it mounts. It's possible it moves a tiny bit when it's being stepped on, but by hand it's quite rigid. As has already been suggested, a replacement pedal will probably solve your issue.
Do you know of any replacement pedals for an 85 2m4?
I didn't check my other Fieros... but on my daily-driver Formula, the gas pedal does not pivot on the arm where it mounts. It's possible it moves a tiny bit when it's being stepped on, but by hand it's quite rigid. As has already been suggested, a replacement pedal will probably solve your issue.
Patrick, would you mind reading my post just below your gas pedal pics & comment on the content? The same pedal pivot spring (part number 10026507) is shown in the parts catalogue for all models from 1984 to 1988. If the pedal doesn't stay parallel with the sole of your shoe by pivoting on the pedal lever as you depress the pedal, it's not functioning to the design intent.
The same pedal pivot spring (part number 10026507) is shown in the parts catalogue for all models from 1984 to 1988. If the pedal doesn't stay parallel with the sole of your shoe by pivoting on the pedal lever as you depress the pedal, it's not functioning to the design intent.
So it is supposed to tilt?? Not even sure atm if its functioning properly.
Patrick, would you mind reading my post just below your gas pedal pics & comment on the content?
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Originally posted by David Hambleton:
All Fiero gas pedals tilt forward against a fairly stiff spring, as Ogre mentions above. As the pedal is depressed, the pivot enables the pedal to stay parallel with the bottom of your shoe while the top of the pedal gets closer to the rod it pivots on.
David, I probably didn't wrestle with the pedal enough (by hand) to overcome the stiffness of the spring. However, I suspect the spring tension was less on the gas pedal of my first Fiero years ago (perhaps due to wear and tear), as I recall the pedal did feel odd to me.
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Originally posted by Patrick:
I didn't check my other Fieros... but on my daily-driver Formula, the gas pedal does not pivot on the arm where it mounts. It's possible it moves a tiny bit when it's being stepped on, but by hand it's quite rigid.
Sorry, I was a bit vague in my meaning. I meant that some wd40 on the other moving parts of the lever, throttle body hinge and cable would allow the pedal to move a lot better and avoid the tilting. On one of mine I put wd40 on the throttle body hinge and into the cable tube and it really helped the pedal move toward the floor easier instead of just tilting.
However, as theogre pointed out:
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That is the worst thing you can do. Any wet lube will hold dirt and often attack the plastic = the pedal and "bearing" can wear or break and make bigger headaches.
It's probably not a good idea anyway and I may have negative repercussions at some point down the road(literally and metaphorically speaking).
1929 Ford Model A. Right hand 'button' is a foot rest; left hand 'button' is the accelerator. You roll your foot to the left to push the accelerator button.
[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 11-20-2017).]
Mine's so loose it actually flaps around. So you can pivot your foot with the whole pad any way you like without changing the throttle angle. I thought it just was this way factory. Now I guess not. Never bothered me though I've never seen this in any other car.
Originally posted by liv4God: It's probably not a good idea anyway and I may have negative repercussions at some point down the road(literally and metaphorically speaking).
Depends just where and what you spray. Example: Metal points like shaft in TB/TBI can reduce stuck dirt etc problems but for TBI/carbs gas can wash it away. Areas where gas doesn't clean it... you can have bigger dirt problems and some lubes can get stiff or even freeze in cold weather. Some Liquid Wrench products are know to freeze and sprayed in/on cables, TB/TBI/carb, door locks, and others causes allot of problems.
For TB etc shafts I "clean" w/ WD40 or whatever then full clean w/ Brake clean to remove oil etc. Then spray w/ Dry Teflon to prevent "rust" after. For metal to metal areas it will lube w/o holding dirt etc and some protection from "rust."
But Most Dry formulas have strong solvent etc that can hurt plastic so don't spry directly on them. The Fiero gas pedal rod and steel mount to floor can be sprayed but avoid big plastic bearing. Same for brake/clutch pedal bearing at top... remove & clean all, spray metal dry teflon let that dry and put back together. (Use new plastic bushing on bake/clutch is best. May need to trim new to fit Fiero.)
I tilt my foot so my toes are pointing a bit to the passenger side instead of up. I have size 13-14 shoe. This puts my pressure point closer to where the pivot of the pedal is. To brake I just pivot my foot on the heel so my toe is roughly over the brake. Pretty much more or less, at least when not reacting fast.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 11-24-2017).]