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Milk shake coolant by Ucycle
Started on: 11-08-2017 01:59 PM
Replies: 16 (385 views)
Last post by: Ucycle on 11-22-2017 11:52 AM
Ucycle
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Report this Post11-08-2017 01:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So from my other post, i stated that i had a external coolant leak on the head gasket on a rebuilt engine. I also started the engine for the first time and find oil/brown milk shake looking coolant and it pressurized my coolant system instantly(within seconds of running it). Im assuming that is from the combustion chamber??
Or can that be from lower intake manifold gasket leaking? but no coolant in the oil so I'm kind ruling it out.

But when I took out the head out i found the source of the external HG leak, a tear by the corner coolant chamber(pic) but that still doesn't explain how that leak cause oil and pressure getting into the coolant system. All the head gasket looks fine beside the tear. Im about to put a new head gasket back and want to find out what other possible cause of milk shake coolant and instant pressurized of the coolant system. Any idea before i put everything back on. thanks

PIC

[This message has been edited by Ucycle (edited 11-08-2017).]

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Joseph Upson
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Report this Post11-08-2017 05:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Without knowing the extent of your rebuilt engine, you need to have both heads checked for cracks and surface flatness. You may also need to look at the deck of the engine block. If you've only removed one cylinder head, you need to remove the other also if you have not done so unless you are pretty confident there is no problem with it. I agree with your suspicion that is not the source of the coolant contamination. It is also a strange defect in the gasket considering no practical causal agent aside from deliberate damage comes to mind.
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Report this Post11-08-2017 05:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah im remove the other head as well. i wasn't sure if it was causing the combustion gas entering the coolant system. Didn't see any damage on either gasket. Also the seems like the gasket was damage and ATK/LKQ engine rebuilder still put it on.
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Report this Post11-08-2017 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just saw your other post. You need to tear the top end down, take the heads and have them checked for straightness and cracks for sure now given LKQ is a major auto salvager and unless you can confirm otherwise, there's no telling what their idea of "Rebuilt" is if it was done in house. I start with a running used motor and tear it down and rebuild it myself.
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Report this Post11-16-2017 02:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So i replace both side of HG with new head bolts. The camaro head bolts torque spec ask for 41ft/lb plus another 90 degree turn. I did 4 round of torque(10ft/lb increment) to get to 41 ft/lb. I also got a cheap angle torque gauge which turn out to be useless. The dial indicator would slip while i was turning and give less degree reading than what i was actually did turn. Luckily i caught it early and just finish all the 90 degree final torque by eyeballing it. In hind sight, i should have make a 90 degree paper template to use it as a gauge.
Also i re-did valve lash, glad i did. I loosen all 1.5 turn out and found either its really loose or really tight like the rebuilder didn't even care to get it zero lash. I use the wiggle the pushrod method and i think i got it pretty close to zero lash. Then add another 1.5 turn after that.
Tonight I'm going to put the LIM back on and the rest of the parst back on and hope i can fire it up on Friday without any problem like oil in the coolant.
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Report this Post11-19-2017 01:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So after putting in head gaskets on both side, im still get combustion gas into my coolant system. I'm running out of ideas on how to solve this problem.
Is there anyway to find out where the leak is coming from either head gasket, or somewhere in the block?
I'm also think i might try blue devil head gasket sealant but i rather not to band aid an underling problem.

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Report this Post11-19-2017 11:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ucycle:
So after putting in head gaskets on both side, im still get combustion gas into my coolant system. I'm running out of ideas on how to solve this problem.
Is there anyway to find out where the leak is coming from either head gasket, or somewhere in the block?
I'm also think i might try blue devil head gasket sealant but i rather not to band aid an underling problem.


Did you take those heads to the shop and have them checked as I suggested earlier?
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Report this Post11-20-2017 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I thought since there was a tear in the head gasket, that was the cause of the problem and that they resurface the head correctly. So in short ,no i didn't check the head for flatness

I just got a email from their warranty dept that they denied my claim due to gaskets shows signs of overheating:
"INTERNAL VISUAL INSPECTION:
There were signs of abnormal combustion and over heat to both head gaskets.
Head gaskets are MLS.

CONCLUSION:
Customers complaint and all damage is due to abnormal combustion."

I guess i have to get the head check for flatness.
If the head do come out good, how would i check the block since it already in the car?

Also what other possible location(beside the head surfac/block surface) in the engine that might cause the combustion gas getting into coolant.

thanks for the help.

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Report this Post11-20-2017 04:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ucycle:

I thought since there was a tear in the head gasket, that was the cause of the problem and that they resurface the head correctly. So in short ,no i didn't check the head for flatness

I just got a email from their warranty dept that they denied my claim due to gaskets shows signs of overheating:
"INTERNAL VISUAL INSPECTION:
There were signs of abnormal combustion and over heat to both head gaskets.
Head gaskets are MLS.

CONCLUSION:
Customers complaint and all damage is due to abnormal combustion."

I guess i have to get the head check for flatness.
If the head do come out good, how would i check the block since it already in the car?

Also what other possible location(beside the head surfac/block surface) in the engine that might cause the combustion gas getting into coolant.

thanks for the help.


You sound pretty comfortable with their decision. Did you overheat it at anytime? If not I would raise a stink about it. That is not an MLS gasket. Except for a crack in the cylinder wall there is no other way to pressurize the coolant system with combustion gasses. I wouldn't be surprised if they took an engine they had with a blown head gasket, slapped a set of fresh gaskets on it and called it a day. I'd be very surprised if they took a set of heads to a machine shop for an old 60 degree motor as most would do just the opposite and put a set of gaskets on it and go if they can.
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Report this Post11-20-2017 04:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:


You sound pretty comfortable with their decision. Did you overheat it at anytime? If not I would raise a stink about it. That is not an MLS gasket. Except for a crack in the cylinder wall there is no other way to pressurize the coolant system with combustion gasses. I wouldn't be surprised if they took an engine they had with a blown head gasket, slapped a set of fresh gaskets on it and called it a day. I'd be very surprised if they took a set of heads to a machine shop for an old 60 degree motor as most would do just the opposite and put a set of gaskets on it and go if they can.


No im not agree with their decision, but not much i can do about it. Im think about small claim court to get my money back since I don't think it is right to sell defective product and claim its the customer's fault.
So here sequence of events:
1) find external leak before engine was first started and contacted the company
2) turn on engine 1-2min(shut down due to milk shake coolant/bubbles and coolant boil over) the first time since i want to see if there is other issue beside the external leak.
3) company told me to sent in old HG and replace it with new ones
4) replaced new HG both side and use new head bolts
5) Start engine the second time, again only 1-2min (shut down due to milk shake coolant/bubbles and coolant boil over), same as the first time but without the external leak.

So i only start the engine two time and I don't think this short 1-2 min will overheat it plus im sure it was bad from the beginning.
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Report this Post11-20-2017 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ucycle

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Also they claim there are supposed to be heat tabs(it will burst when engine overheat) that is glue around the engine. But i found none so im very suspicious why this engine doesn't have any heat tabs. And why was this engine way cheaper than the same ATK brand engine i can buy from autozone.

If there is crack in the block, i won't know it unless i strip it all down to the block and sent it out to be tested, right?
Im about to buy a used engine so i can at least get the car to run, cause i don't know how far this rabbit hole goes.
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Report this Post11-20-2017 06:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ucycle:
And why was this engine way cheaper than the same ATK brand engine i can buy from autozone.
.


Can ATK look a photos and tell you if the engine is really theirs? Maybe a counterfeit rebuild?...
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Report this Post11-20-2017 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cracked head, cracked cylinder wall are the likely culprits.
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Report this Post11-20-2017 07:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't think it a fake ATK engine since i bought it from LKQ themself (they own ATK). And the warranty rep ask for my engine# so i'm sure everything check out.

As for crack cylinder, i'm hoping not. That is dilemma, let said i resurface the heads and that didn't solve problem then im out another $200(resurfacing heads, new head bolts, gaskets).
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Report this Post11-20-2017 07:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ucycle

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Member since Nov 2013
Im reading the engine birth cert:
Test date: 12-17-2013
Oil pressure(PSI): 49.3 Oil flow:55.1
Oil temp (F): 122
Compression (PSI) Average:182.7
Water Temp(F):
Running Time/Test(Min): 5

No water temperature and I wonder if they actually start the engine with fuel or this is all done by spinning the crank in a machine jig without any fuel?? If they do start the engine, you would think they will see the leak both externally and combustion gas leak(s).


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Report this Post11-20-2017 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Ucycle:

Im reading the engine birth cert:
Test date: 12-17-2013
Oil pressure(PSI): 49.3 Oil flow:55.1
Oil temp (F): 122
Compression (PSI) Average:182.7
Water Temp(F):
Running Time/Test(Min): 5

No water temperature and I wonder if they actually start the engine with fuel or this is all done by spinning the crank in a machine jig without any fuel?? If they do start the engine, you would think they will see the leak both externally and combustion gas leak(s).



You'd have to rev the engine hard and long in neutral while overheated to warp a head. I blew a radiator and drove the car a half mile afterwards. It didn't hurt the 2.8 heads, but it did ruin the crank bearings from the thinned out hot oil.

The head gaskets they used looked pretty cheap and if they ran it 5 minutes without coolant I can't say that wouldn't hurt the cylinder head. Rather than express anymore suspicions I did a little homework for you;

https://www.trustlink.org/R...th-America-205702895


Understand no one is above reproach and practically everyday each of us gets a little exposure in some way to just how rotten human beings can be, especially in order to make a buck. They know their reputation better than anyone as well as the tendencies of their products.
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Report this Post11-22-2017 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for UcycleSend a Private Message to UcycleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I got more response from the ATK/LKQ:
" Sorry you are still having issues. If you believe the issue lies in material or workmanship of the long block, you can remove the engine and strip it back down to a long block and strap it to a pallet. I will then arrange a pick up to have the long block returned to the factory for tear down inspection. If a factory defect is found in the inspection, a replacement will be sent. If no factory defect is found, the engine can be returned to you in unassembled condition for a fee of $150.00 USD COD Certified Fund Cashier’s check or money order, with no further warranty.
Let me know if you would like to pursue this and I will arrange the pick up."

Seems like its not a good deal for me since they already denied my claim on the head gaskets even through there was a tear on the gasket itself. Its one good way for them to void my warranty and sent me the engine in "parts" plus give them another $150.

I just order a machining straight edge to check the head and block, and rent a leak down tester and combustion block tester. Plan to work on finding the issue over the holiday. And more search on small claim court process.

Man this is really turning into a nightmare.
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