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Question about using jack stands in front by waynrayn
Started on: 11-05-2017 10:32 PM
Replies: 14 (380 views)
Last post by: waynrayn on 11-17-2017 12:56 AM
waynrayn
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Report this Post11-05-2017 10:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi All:

I posted this question after searching for all "jack stand" related threads, and also viewing Ogre's comments about jacking up Fieros in the Cave.

I am comfortable with using jack stands (6 ton) in the back, and where to position them. The front is more problematic.

Here is a link to some pictures that I have posted (double-click each picture to open):

https://drive.google.com/dr...r0NHkVXY4RV9SZmY4clE

Capture 1 is Ogre's illustration. The red arrows show where I have tried to position the jack stands.

However, I am greatly concerned about a line running from the radiator directly above the contact area. Captures 2 and 3 show this.

I really don't want this to get pinched in the U-shape of the jack stand.

I would appreciate some seasoned advice as to whether this is or isn't a concern. Or a better place to put the jack stand? I don't see one more accessible than this.

Ultimately I would like to raise the vehicle evenly on 4 jack stands.

Thanks very much,

Wayne
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Report this Post11-05-2017 10:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can always put the stands under the front crossmember in the area colored in the diagram but you should be fine with the stands where you posted. I don't think you will cause any damage to the lines.
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theogre
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Report this Post11-05-2017 11:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
tubes are AT coolant lines. Not sure if your stand would pinch bottom one or not. Looks to close to tell for pic's shown.

4 stands on what surface?
Level Concrete is iffy sometimes. Anything else is dangerous most times.

dirt & asphalt can shift or sink the bases unevenly and allow the stand to tip etc. worse when used for days weeks or longer. Outside is worse of all because rain heat ice etc make more likely to happen.
Plus trying 4 in most surfaces is like a table on many floors... Never get all legs loaded evenly and table wobbles etc. Not good w/ 1000# plus table...
Best for most things is use 2 stands and 2 tires. Car will self adjust 2 legs so doesn't care so much.

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wgpierce
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Report this Post11-06-2017 01:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wgpierceSend a Private Message to wgpierceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

4 stands on what surface?
Level Concrete is iffy sometimes. Anything else is dangerous most times.


Ogre. Buddy.

Let me start by saying I love you.

Let me finish by asking, what planet are you from? Since when is a jackstand on a level concrete surface "iffy"? I mean CMON! This is a Fiero not a 20 ton Garbage hauler!!
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Gall757
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Report this Post11-06-2017 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wgpierce:


Ogre. Buddy.

Let me start by saying I love you.

Let me finish by asking, what planet are you from? Since when is a jackstand on a level concrete surface "iffy"? I mean CMON! This is a Fiero not a 20 ton Garbage hauler!!



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waynrayn
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Report this Post11-06-2017 03:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for these suggestions.

The floor in question is a concrete floor in a garage. I don't foresee an issue with the ground under the jacks.

"It's too close to call"- That's the problem for me too; the line from the radiator is too close to tell. I was hoping someone would immediately know from experience whether it is a bad idea or not.

Thx,

~W~
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olejoedad
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Report this Post11-06-2017 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I usually use the front crossmember for the front jackstands location, just inboard of the lower control arm pocket.
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theogre
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Report this Post11-06-2017 05:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just push up the upper section to see how it hits the frame there. Take top out of bottom if needed to see. (Most never bent the locking tab to prevent removing top from bottom on this type stands.)
6 ton stands have bigger tops and may hit the tube while many smaller ones can't on a large frame area.

 
quote
Originally posted by wgpierce:
Ogre. Buddy.

Let me start by saying I love you.

Let me finish by asking, what planet are you from? Since when is a jackstand on a level concrete surface "iffy"? I mean CMON! This is a Fiero not a 20 ton Garbage hauler!!
Tell that to Insurance etc when Stands fail holding "only" 1 - 2 tons.
Many things affect stand use besides good concrete or what on them. Metal on concrete and metal to metal can slip often causing big safety problems.
I've seen enough close calls on very good concrete floors. Stands may look ok to start but putting any load to remove a big bolt can upset the load on the stands.
Many techs/mechanics are hurt/killed in a shop using jacks and jack stands each year. Many incidents are never reported because they often have to deal w/ insurance, cops, OSHA or state equivalent, etc. You only hear about this when someone sues a business or gets killed and might make a blurb for local news.

They make plastic pads to fit many tops to prevent damage to the car and slipping metal to metal. Might help if tube is close to stand.
Examples: https://www.harborfreight.c...tand-2-pc-63373.html
Google: jack stand pads
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waynrayn
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Report this Post11-07-2017 11:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Again, thanks for these suggestions. I'll follow up and report back.

Regards,

Wayne
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waynrayn
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Report this Post11-14-2017 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi All:

I've been busy with relatives visiting, and hadn't a chance to post my follow-up.

I was successful in getting my Fiero ('87 SE) up on tire ramps, using the jack stands to gradually lift it. I did use the front support points mentioned in my above discussion. Following Ogre's suggestion, I removed the top of the jack stand, put it up against the spot, and checked with a flashlight to be sure the line was not pinched. It wasn't.

I've posted more pictures at the same link:

https://drive.google.com/dr...r0NHkVXY4RV9SZmY4clE

I've got it on ramps, with the jack stands (6 ton) in front. I haven't yet put the jack stands in back, if I feel I need to, but am comfortable doing this, as the support points are more obvious than the front.

Thanks very much for everyone's help... There are various things I'll be working on, so I may post other questions.

Regards,

~W~
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waynrayn
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Report this Post11-16-2017 07:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Another question if I could please:

The purpose of getting to the underside is to rebuild/replace my starter, which has died. Solenoid works- it clicks but no crank. Voltage is good (1-month old battery). I'd noticed a sluggishness in the cranking power for some time. So I need to get it out and have a look.

I've read all archived articles relative to the starter, and have a pretty good idea of the job, which seems intermediate in difficulty. Working above the catalytic converter is the awkward part.

I've removed the wires, but am having difficulty seeing all of the bolts to remove. I don't seen anything in the archived articles. I've posted pictures here:

https://drive.google.com/dr...r0NHkVXY4RV9SZmY4clE

... Which highlight what I think I need to remove. I've called the Fiero Store to order the Factory Service Manual (already closed today; I am Pacific time here).

In the meantime, I would appreciate any guidance on the number and location of nuts/bolts to remove. Past that I can test it (99% sure it's bad), and install the new one with a new heat shield.

Thanks very much if possible,

~W~
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Report this Post11-16-2017 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Remove bracket hardware. Might get lucky remove small nuts and just loosen big bolt/nut but most time I don't enough room that way.
Remove 2 bolts go thru the starter head from the bottom.

Install get all threads started then torque 2 big bolt first then all bracket hardware.

New starter may or not need the shim.
See my Cave, Starter

Starter dead often heat problem from exhaust. buy or make a heat shield. If made make sure wires can't cut by new shield.
example: //www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/140254.html#p10
this is just belt scrap Al.
to mount slot a hole for shim and 1 bolt for trans dirt cover.
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waynrayn
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Report this Post11-16-2017 11:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi Ogre:

Thanks for your reply. I did previously read your Starter/Shim page in the Cave. This will be useful.

Are the "two big bolts" the ones I have indicated in my pictures? Is the vertical bolt with the question mark correct, or should I leave that one?

Thanks very much,

~W~
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Report this Post11-17-2017 12:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
no. both starter bolts are on the bottom. If one is missing use only starter bolts. Normal bolts can fall out. Get then at most part stores.
stud head bolt is 1 of several trans mount bolts. leave them alone.

see B&W pic on heat shield page.

Likely need to remove trans dirt cover too. 3-4 small bolts.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-17-2017).]

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waynrayn
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Report this Post11-17-2017 12:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for waynraynSend a Private Message to waynraynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is much clearer, thank you very much. The black and white pic, also the larger photo underneath taken from the top, were a great help.

Much appreciated...

~W~
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