Bolt has rust frozen? Shock tube has a seem. Hit metal next to seem to spread then use pb blaster etc. See my Cave, Bushings
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Sounds like the metal sleeve in the rubber bushing of the shock is rusted to the bolt. Cut the outer bushing ring/mount (without hitting the shock tube!!!) remove the shock, peel away the old rubber then rotate until you see the seam like OGRE said. Then split the metal sleeve apart a bit to free it from the bolt.
Originally posted by FIEROPHREK: Sounds like the metal sleeve in the rubber bushing of the shock is rusted to the bolt. Cut the outer bushing ring/mount (without hitting the shock tube!!!) remove the shock, peel away the old rubber then rotate until you see the seam like OGRE said. Then split the metal sleeve apart a bit to free it from the bolt.
Most times a wrench can move the sleeve to attach it. Just hitting the sleeve ends as in my cave works most times.
I've use this trick for big CA bushing etc for Decades partly because often no room for a saw. Big bushing often need some ubber cut out to see the sleeve. If the bolt is good... Won't be after cutting or heated. Heat to remove = a very soft bolt. Many are Metric Class 10 or SAE Grade 8 and heat ruins them.
Wow, feels like way too long since I have posted here, but unfortunately after 3800 swapping my Fiero, I moved states, bought a house, got a dog, and am getting married. I finally am finding (some) time to work on the car here and there and next order of business is new brake lines and front suspension parts. I started to pull my front shocks out tonight (87 GT) and had the same issue as above so thought I would continue this post rather than start a new one. Eventually I got the bolt/nut off that hold the lower part of the shock to the control arm but they are definitely ruined (they being the nut and bolt, but also the shocks are 100% shot. I could compress them with my hands lol!)
Anyway, I see a bolt spec listed above for the bolt that holds the shock to the control arm, but was this verified to be correct? Anyone have a part number or replacement part that can be ordered? If not, I can run to Ace and see what they've got.
I assume torque this to spec (51ft-lbs), and maybe a bit of blue Loctite to be safe?
Originally posted by Patrick: The factory shocks (and struts) were like that when they were brand new. Seriously. They only offered resistance on the rebound.
That and their non gas units too. Many Replacement work in both ways but non gas as well. Only "Premium" units was gas for a long time for Fiero and a lot more. I think now all you find is gas units in most product lines.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Hopefully these shocks make the car feel a bit better then!
So M10*1.5*60 is the correct bolt then? Should I grab one from the local hardware store with the hardest grade I can find, or is there a part number I can just order? Thanks!
