Does anybody out there know a good lowering kit for fieros. My car has 16 inch rims so it is actually sitting a little higher than stock height. I have a 1986 fiero SE. I am looking to lower my car at least 2 to 4 inches. I would love to find some coilovers so that I can raise the car when needed, but some good lowering springs would be good too. I cant find any companies that make springs or coilovers that lower the car at the level that I want. The most ive seen is West Coast Fiero that has coilovers that lower the car 1.5 inches, but thats it. Where can I find what I need or does anybody know of a lowering kit that would be compatible to a fiero?
Do a search on the subject and that should turn up some information for you.
You have a some options. Lowering springs or cut stock springs. Any combination of the previous two mentioned with rear coilovers (make you own or pirchase a coilover for rear only as there is no front coilover). Rodney Dickman also sells ball joints that lower the car 1". Any combination of all mentioned can the look you are after.
[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 06-05-2017).]
Just remember that unless you cut down the front bump stops, you will have very limited suspension travel... and cutting down the (metal) front bump stops on an '84--87 Fiero is not the easiest job.
EDIT - I should add that I'm not 100% sure whether using lowering ball joints lessens the need to shorten the front bump stops (as I've never tried them), but using lowering or cut springs will require this to be done.
Originally posted by Patrick: Just remember that unless you cut down the front bump stops, you will have very limited suspension travel... and cutting down the (metal) front bump stops on an '84--87 Fiero is not the easiest job.
EDIT - I should add that I'm not 100% sure whether using lowering ball joints lessens the need to shorten the front bump stops (as I've never tried them)
Lowering ball joints lower the car WITHOUT reducing the distance between the lower A-arm and the bump stop tower.
Thank your for the helpful information. So what I got based on the responses. I should get coilovers for the rear, and then cut the springs to the size I want, get springs for the front, cut the springs to the height I want. Get lowering ball joints for both rear and front, and possibly lower the bump stops. Does this all look correct? Does anyone think I'll need to modify the control arms? And also how many pounds of spring rate should I be using?
I should get coilovers for the rear, and then cut the springs to the size I want
No. If you decide to get coilovers for the back, buy the correct springs.
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Originally posted by Richie.kincaid:
...get springs for the front, cut the springs to the height I want. Get lowering ball joints for both rear and front, and possibly lower the bump stops.
No. Lowering ball joints don't require lowering or cut springs. They also apparently don't require the bump stops to be shortened. If you use lowering or cut springs instead, you will need to shorten the bump stops.
I can see how you can interpret the information bit wrong, I apologize for so much information mashed together.
Take a look at this Coilovers to get an idea about making your own coilovers. Most people, to include me, buy 10" springs. The stiffness of the spring depends on your application.
The fronts are the only ones you would cut, if you choose to use that option. You can also put lowering springs in as well without cutting.
The Rodney Dickman lowering ball joints are a great option with or without lowering springs. These lower the car 1" without taking away from suspension travel. Here is the Drop Ball Joint
Hopefully that helps you out.
[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 06-06-2017).]
It would be very helpful to know the year of your Fiero; pre-88's have a different suspension setup than the 88's.
Coilovers are not necessary to lower the rear, lowering springs or cut stock springs do a fine job, and provide a good ride.
Most lowering springs are pretty stiff. The Eibachs on my 86 are 300# and on rough roads they are very harsh, to the point of making the car skittery.
Cutting the stock springs (abrasive wheel or saw; NO HEAT!) increases spring rate proportionally to the amount of the spring removed, usually in the neighborhood of 15-25% and provides the ride height reduction and a good ride on rough pavement.
Do a lot of research before deciding on your path forward. Suspension modifications are somewhat expensive (ball joints, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, toe links, sway bar end links and bushings...), especially if you need to pay someone to install the parts.
It would be very helpful to know the year of your Fiero; pre-88's have a different suspension setup than the 88's.
Coilovers are not necessary to lower the rear, lowering springs or cut stock springs do a fine job, and provide a good ride.
Most lowering springs are pretty stiff. The Eibachs on my 86 are 300# and on rough roads they are very harsh, to the point of making the car skittery.
Cutting the stock springs (abrasive wheel or saw; NO HEAT!) increases spring rate proportionally to the amount of the spring removed, usually in the neighborhood of 15-25% and provides the ride height reduction and a good ride on rough pavement.
Do a lot of research before deciding on your path forward. Suspension modifications are somewhat expensive (ball joints, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, toe links, sway bar end links and bushings...), especially if you need to pay someone to install the parts.
Front: Rodney Dickman 1" lowering ball joints Install cut front springs. If your car doesn't have RPO code WS6 (possible if you have an SE?), get the WS6 front springs from an 84-87 Fiero. You want stiff springs to stay off the bumpstops.
Rear: Flipped strut mounts Standard coilover conversion, either WCF or per fierohoho instructions
I would be wary of cutting/trimming the bumpstops any further. The bumpstops are there to prevent your tires from moving too far up and damaging the bodywork.
I would rather ride on the bumpstops than have my tires bump into the bodywork.
But for the look, you may want to fine-tune the bumpstops (front and rear) so that the tires stop going up just as contact is about to be made. Use a floor jack for this exercise to slowly lift the wheel, and perhaps remove the spring for this exercise. You'll need to have your final wheels/spacers/camber setup to do this exercise.
I'm aware that the car will handle awfully. The best thing would be to just forget the springs and but bags on it. That way I can drive it comfortably and still get the look I want when parked. But that would be a heavy receipt. Thanks for all the help.
I would rather ride on the bumpstops than have my tires bump into the bodywork.
I don't agree with that at all.
What's the point of having any suspension if the car is going to sit on the bump stops? With the proper size and offset wheels, the Fiero's front suspension can compress all the way (with the bump stops shortened) until the shocks are about to bottom out without the tires hitting anything. I've done this to both my '84 and my '88 (which were both autocrossed for years).
This guy might have a problem with his tires hitting the body, but we don't need to.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-06-2017).]
Originally posted by Patrick: What's the point of having any suspension if the car is going to sit on the bump stops?
There is no point; there's where you run into a wall with lowering.
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Originally posted by Patrick: might have a problem with his tires hitting the body, but we don't need to.
From the factory, there seems to be enough "extra margin" to not be overly concerned about the tires hitting the body.
So the bumpstops can be trimmed somewhat, and not have any problems. My suggestions of the front lowering ball joints and flipping the strut mounts are both functionally equivalent to trimming the bumpstops.
How much further can we recommend to trim the bumpstops beyond my initial moderate recommendations? We don't know, that's up to OP to figure out with his particular car/wheels/tires, as I have mentioned.
As we can see, tires can come close to bodywork on Fieros. Clearance should be verified.
Front tire on fieroguru's 88:
Rear wheel test fit on Will's 84-87:
Particularly if going with airbags, the goal might be to have the car sitting on the bumpstops while parked (airbags completely deflated). So in this case, the bumpstops would be tweaked so the tire is a hair's distance from touching the body when parked, to achieve the stanced look while parked.
[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 06-06-2017).]
Here is a picture of an 86 GT with the front springs removed and the control arm resting on the stock bump stop. 1" lowering ball joints will allow the wheel to go another inch toward the fender, but depending on how far you want the wheels to tuck in, you will need to relocate the bump stop. Ideally you want to hit the bump stop about 3/8" or so before the tire hits the inner fender as the bump stop will compress some.
Here is the picture of my 88 sitting on the bump stops:
Here is where I trimmed the 88 bump stop down and the new fender clearance:
Changing ride height by cutting springs introduces bump steer, sometimes to an objectionable level. The uprights with altered stub axle height are the way to go - the suspension maintains correct function and nothing but the location of the wheel vis a vis the suspension changes.
