Hi guys new here. Got a 1984 Pontiac Fiero 2m4 with a 4spd Muncie. Before you say it, yes I've gone through the steps to properly bleed the hydraulics and have looked everywhere for any explanation. Got a new slave cylinder and brand new clutch kit in. I have movement from the slave cylinder and I'm not positive on the amount of travel but it certainly is doing what it's supposed to compared to the older one. My help is out of town so in the meantime I figured I'd try to dig here.
It just won't disengage the clutch. I'm clueless. Is there anything else that I'm missing? I put the clutch in correctly. It will go into gear but only when it's off. Just grinds if you attempt 1st. With the wheels off the ground you can actually get it into 2nd and I get wheels turning.
No advise on the clutch, except maybe the disk is in backwards. Spinning the wheels with the car lifted anywhere but underneath the rear control arms can damage the tri-pot on the axles.
No advise on the clutch, except maybe the disk is in backwards. Spinning the wheels with the car lifted anywhere but underneath the rear control arms can damage the tri-pot on the axles.
Yeah I didn't spin them a whole lot. Just briefly testing. When I put the disc in I had the springs and stuff facing towards the transaxle. When I depress the clutch pedal it I hear what sounds like a very subtle hissing noise from the clutch area. Not sure if that's good or not.
When the clutch pedal is put to the floor, you need to know how far the slave cylinder is actually pushing the push-rod out... which in turn is moving the clutch lever.
Pick a point on the slave. The mounting flange, the end of the slave housing, the bleeder valve, etc. Measure to the point where the pushrod fits into the transmission clutch release lever. Then have someone depress the clutch pedal all the way and take the same measurement. Subtract the difference and you should have the travel distance. A minimum of 1 inch is required.
Make sure the slave is bolted up right, I have seen an 84 be off one bolt and do the same thing.
Yeah the most peculiar I thing is that when I took the old one off there was only one bolt holding it to the bracket and it was closer. When I got the new slave I got a matching bolt and went ahead and bolted it the way I saw it was supposed to.
Next thing to check is the push rod. The previous owner may have jury-rigged the slave to compensate for the wrong one.
Well I have a new slave cylinder in there so it came with a new pushrod. The master cylinder, if it's not performing like it should despite looking brand new, would that cause this kind of issue? Should I replace the master cylinder?
I did just measure the travel and it looks like only 9/16 of an inch of travel. I've tried everything to bleed this sucker.
Maker sure your clutch pedal and/or the banjo isn't bent. If it is, there won't be enough master cylinder travel before the pedal hits the floor.
That should be easy to see I'm assuming if I get underneath. I did replace the pedal cause it was bent. But I didn't observe the banjo. Wasn't really sure what it was since I'm new to fieros. But I have heard of it.
Maker sure your clutch pedal and/or the banjo isn't bent. If it is, there won't be enough master cylinder travel before the pedal hits the floor.
Okay I checked that part and that came with the new pedal I ordered from the Fiero Store. *note* When I push the pedal all the way I hear a noise toward the end when the pedal hits the end. It's coming from the pushrod area on the master. Is this a problem? *edit* It sorta sounds like seizing or rubbing of some sort....not sure how to describe it but it's definitely coming from the pushrod of the master.
[This message has been edited by JackyLee93 (edited 05-30-2017).]
When I push the pedal all the way I hear a noise toward the end when the pedal hits the end. It's coming from the pushrod area on the master. Is this a problem?
Did you mount the loop of the banjo up or down?
And where does your clutch pedal sit in relation to the brake pedal? Higher... lower?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-30-2017).]
And where does your clutch pedal sit in relation to the brake pedal? Higher... lower?
I think the banjo is sitting the right way. Not sure how it'd be up or down. As far as the relation to the brake pedal the clutch pedal sits just about even with it.
So all I need to do is flip that pushrod? Then proceed to properly bleed the system again?
I never said that's "all" you need to do. Your clutch pedal still needs to be sitting 1" above your brake pedal for there to be enough travel before it hits the floor. You need to find out why it isn't sitting higher than it is. Bent pedal? Bent banjo? Short banjo? I've even read of the clutch lockout switch (or whatever it's called) preventing the clutch pedal from fully returning to the top of its travel.
I never said that's "all" you need to do. Your clutch pedal still needs to be sitting 1" above your brake pedal for there to be enough travel before it hits the floor. You need to find out why it isn't sitting higher than it is. Bent pedal? Bent banjo? Short banjo? I've even read of the clutch lockout switch (or whatever it's called) preventing the clutch pedal from fully returning to the top of its travel.
Alright. I'm gonna look at it tomorrow and see what I can do with the info you've provided. The lockout switch is there but it's wire is grounded anyways so that switch is sorta pointless to have there besides for safety. By the way how do you tell if the banjo is short?
The banjo will control the pedal position. If it is short, your pedal will be too low....it should not be pushed up to the stop, but close......perhaps half an inch from it's max 'up' position.
The banjo will control the pedal position. If it is short, your pedal will be too low....it should not be pushed up to the stop, but close......perhaps half an inch from it's max 'up' position.
Okay so I went ahead and removed the pushrod to see how much further the pedal would go and it wasn't much thanks to the lockout switch. So I removed the switch from the pedal and I could get the pedal to go a bit pass the brake pedal. I see a small difference between before and after. Banjo is facing right way now. Not positive if this will make a difference but I guess I'll do some more gravity bleeding and find out.
When I installed a new slave cylinder I vacuum bled my clutch then used a speed bleeder in the slave with the clutch arm blocked so it couldn't move to get the last bit of air out.
Here's a link to V8 Archies clutch bleeding method.
When I installed a new slave cylinder I vacuum bled my clutch then used a speed bleeder in the slave with the clutch arm blocked so it couldn't move to get the last bit of air out.
Here's a link to V8 Archies clutch bleeding method.
You know I actually thought about getting some of those tools. But I'm on a tight budget. Anyways when I get a clear day off and no rain, I'm going to try bleeding it according to Archie's guide again with the adjustments I made so far. I'll let you guys know if I run into issues again. Again I'm grateful for all of your inputs.
Your clutch pedal still needs to be sitting 1" above your brake pedal for there to be enough travel before it hits the floor. You need to find out why it isn't sitting higher than it is. Bent pedal? Bent banjo? Short banjo? I've even read of the clutch lockout switch (or whatever it's called) preventing the clutch pedal from fully returning to the top of its travel.
