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Power Steering Rack Isolators and Brackets? by Inferno
Started on: 05-12-2017 05:08 PM
Replies: 18 (622 views)
Last post by: Inferno on 06-14-2018 12:09 PM
Inferno
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Report this Post05-12-2017 05:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On a 2001/02 F-Body Rack, what isolators/bushings and brackets were used? Anyone use Poly? Custom purchased brackets?
Please no one say Westcoast cause from what I hear they never answer the phone or ship out items.
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Spoon
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Report this Post05-12-2017 11:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here's some pics that might help you. Not sure who took them but a deep search may reveal more info.
First & second pic is a modified cross-member for the F-Rack. Some welding required. This is a solid bolt on connection so no poly.
The 3rd pic is the WCF adapter for bolting on the F-Rack.





Good luck on your project. I did mine some years ago using the WCF kit..

Spoon

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Inferno
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Report this Post06-07-2017 03:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the pics. I noticed that there were two different mounting for each of those images.
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Spoon
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Report this Post06-07-2017 10:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Inferno:

Thanks for the pics. I noticed that there were two different mounting for each of those images.



First and second pic are fabricated parts. Mounting "EARS" to the cross member. Welding required. You have to make these parts. Third pic is the WCF kit. Its a bolt on.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

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Raydar
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Report this Post06-07-2017 10:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Does the WCF kit require you to remove the mounting lugs from the Camaro rack?
I'm still trying to figure out how I want to mount mine.
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Report this Post06-19-2017 11:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Does the WCF kit require you to remove the mounting lugs from the Camaro rack?
I'm still trying to figure out how I want to mount mine.


Yes but only the driver side lug. I cut mine off with a sawzAll and then ground it into shape. This is a one way deal. Once you cut your committed. Also forget about trading it as a core when time comes for replacement.

Spoon

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Report this Post06-20-2017 03:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You guys hooking up a power steering pump to these racks? What is the end goal here?
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fast40driver
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Report this Post06-20-2017 04:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fast40driverSend a Private Message to fast40driverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
F Body rack has two ears, one solid, one w/ a rubber bushing - never seen a deteriorated bushing - OK for re-use. I cut off the driver's side stock mount, mounted the rack to the stock passenger side Fiero mount - rack is a little larger OD, but will work temporarily, cut/fit/welded tabs for the driver's side F-body rack, cut off the stock Fiero side rack mount, then cut/fit/welded tabs for the passenger side of the F body rack. Pretty easy, just used 11ga sheet - bolts up real solid.

Mike
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Report this Post06-20-2017 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the comments.
My goal is to not alter the Fiero front crossmember at all, even if I have to cobble up the rack to make that happen. (Cutting off one lug is as bad as cutting off both of them, from a "core" standpoint.)

Still looking at this. I've already shortened the threaded tie rod ends to the same length as the Fiero rack. ~75mm from each end. Was a lot simpler than I expected.
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Inferno
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Report this Post07-12-2017 08:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This one had the factory mounted bushing cut off. and the brackets had little to no bushing material at all to hold the rack.
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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post07-17-2017 01:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Spoon:

Here's some pics that might help you. Not sure who took them but a deep search may reveal more info.
First & second pic is a modified cross-member for the F-Rack. Some welding required. This is a solid bolt on connection so no poly.






This is one of my front ends. I built a few of them. 2 for me and at least 2 others for friends.

I also did ZR1 racks too.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000124.html

I had enough people request the parts to do the conversion to have a shop CNC a bunch of them.
I sold the ZR1 and Fbody parts. No "kits" though. Only the major parts so people could do it themselves selves easier.

[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 07-17-2017).]

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Report this Post07-17-2017 01:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rickady88GT

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quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Thanks for the comments.
My goal is to not alter the Fiero front crossmember at all, even if I have to cobble up the rack to make that happen. (Cutting off one lug is as bad as cutting off both of them, from a "core" standpoint.)

Still looking at this. I've already shortened the threaded tie rod ends to the same length as the Fiero rack. ~75mm from each end. Was a lot simpler than I expected.


I am sure I discussed this in the thread, but my goal was to not change the Fiero geometry. I am not an engineer, so I did not want to attempt to redesign the entire suspension system. So the only way to put one of those power racks in was to modify the rack mounts.
The stock outer Fiero tie rods are used in their exact same stock location. With this goal in mind the rack itself will not fit without modifications to the front end.
AND, I only did them for 88. I never made a system for a pre88.

[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 07-17-2017).]

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Report this Post07-17-2017 10:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rickady88GT

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quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Thanks for the comments.
My goal is to not alter the Fiero front crossmember at all, even if I have to cobble up the rack to make that happen. (Cutting off one lug is as bad as cutting off both of them, from a "core" standpoint.)

Still looking at this. I've already shortened the threaded tie rod ends to the same length as the Fiero rack. ~75mm from each end. Was a lot simpler than I expected.


The rack has a very large diameter steering spool (the hydraulic diverter valve that directs fluid to either side of the rack piston), and the hydro lines will take up space in your front tire tub. So I accually did not center the rack, I moved the rack as far over to the driver side as possible so as to not cut such a big hole in the spare tire tub. The rack adapters I made allowed the "new" stock Fiero tie rods to mount to the rack without any issues.
The Fiero rack is a very long rack compared to the F body rack, so adapters need to be made. If you do not make adapters to properly locate the inside tie rod ball joint (effectively lengthening the rack to the same as a Fiero rack) then you will compromise the steering geometry. One big disadvantage you will have is added bump steer, among other changes that could cause the steering performance to suffer.
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Report this Post07-17-2017 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rickady88GT

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The ZR1 rack has other issues and compromises, but makes for a cleaner finished product in the end. I did not cut into the tire tub for the Vette rack.
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Report this Post07-17-2017 10:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rickady88GT

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quote
Originally posted by Spadesluck:

You guys hooking up a power steering pump to these racks? What is the end goal here?


The goal could be different for each person. My goal was to get a faster ratio steering rack to make the car feel sportier. Both the ZR1 and Fbody LS1 racks feel MUCH snappier and crisper than the Fiero.
I also did an Fbody rack that came from a v6. The v6 racks have a different ratio than the V8 LS1. The v6 rack ratio is more like a stock Fiero ratio. The result was a much easier steering effort and the steering response felt great. This v6 rack was for a friend who wanted the steering effort to be much less difficult. His goal was different than mine, but we are both happy with it.


Start up and showing the power steering working..

[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 07-17-2017).]

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Inferno
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Report this Post07-17-2017 12:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fixed another problem I had with the rack yesterday.
There was play (dead spot) between the steering column intermediate universal shaft PINCH at the rack. The Pinch wouldnt tighten enough which was causing more of an inch of movement from the steering wheel before it would actually move the rack.

FIX: Removed the intermediate shaft between the column and rack. Ground out the thickness of a grinding disk at the rack pinch location and reassembled. It now pinches nice and tight.

THEN! I found another issue.
Now that the pinch is tight, I can clearly see that I am still getting up to 1/2" of movement (dead spot) in the steering wheel before the rack responds. GRRR! Now I am thinking I may have to replace the rack itself.

[This message has been edited by Inferno (edited 07-17-2017).]

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Inferno
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Report this Post07-17-2017 12:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Inferno

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In my searches I found that this issue can be caused by a bad Rag Joint. I will have to remove the intermediate shaft and have a look see.
If it is the Rag Joint, there are kits out there for the F-Bodys that can be bought, or I will just make my own.

[This message has been edited by Inferno (edited 07-17-2017).]

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Inferno
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Report this Post07-17-2017 12:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Inferno

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I may actually look into removing and adapting the shaft to one of these flaming river units.
Double Universal
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Inferno
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Report this Post06-14-2018 12:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for InfernoSend a Private Message to InfernoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok, I now have a 97 Camaro V6 Rack. I am fabbing up a mounting system like the Tab/Ears design. We will see how this goes.
Thanks to everyone for their input. It has made it a lot easier.
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