Hi.

'85 duke auto.

In the process of overhauling the brake system, new fluid, fixing e-brake, etc. The bleeding screws in the rear calipers are rusted tight and I have no idea how to get them out without destroying anything. Got a new repair kit for the rear calipers but I'm now not sure what can be done. Is there a way to bleed the calipers without using the bleeding screws? Or maybe any of you guys have some ideas how to get them out?

Thanks.

Well, you could try bleeding at the banjo bolt connection (make sure it is the highest point (use a block of wood as a substitute rotor).

Another suggestion is to get a larger bleeder screw, take calipers to a machine shop and have them drill out the old, thread in the new (larger bleeder). You will need to disassemble the caliper, to clean it out afterwards (metal particles from drill and tap)...

That was quick, thanks man! Also I've read about trying to heat them up but I'm worried I might destroy the caliper. I have the repair kits so I'm not worried about melting the rubber.

You might get lucky... it isn't rust, but corrosion, as the calipers are aluminum and the bleeders are steel. I would soak them in a rust penetrate, heat and cool the bleeder screw (they make a spray you can use to cool things quickly). Then, get a good wrench (or locking vise-grips) and tap on the wrench to see if you can free it. Don't just put constant pressure on it, as it will snap off the bleeder. Work the penetrate and heat/cool. Let it sit overnight and try again the next day. Be sure to disconnect the rubber line, as you could have pressure buildup in the caliper and blow a line (if you have moisture, etc.....). You want any pressure to be able to freely leave the caliper as you heat it up.

Oh, use an small pick to clean up around the threads of the bleeder. Also, tap on the bleeder, gently, as it soaks with penetrate.

I had soaked the bleeders of the rear calipers on my '86 GT with penetrating oil for weeks. I didn't use heat (or cold)... and the buggers both snapped off with very little pressure.

Jaski has a good approach to this. But like he said. Tapping the wrench to free it up is key. No direct pressure.

try this next time.....plan on replacing the bleeder screws, but this has worked for me, even the toughest bleeders came out. clean out the opening on the bleeder as best you can, then find an old drill bit that fits as tight as possible when inserting the shank end into the opening, even if you have to tap it in with a hammer that is fine as well. a little heat and or penetrating fluid up front helps as well. then get your wrench on the bleeder and it usually comes right out

Smack the bleeder bolt with a hammer several times. The impact will help break them free.

If that doesn't work, weld a 1/2" nut to the bleeder making sure the nut and bleeder get red hot. Wait about 5 minutes for it to cool down (it will still be very hot), smack it a couple times with a hammer, then rotate. The extreme localized heat nearly always works on steel bolts stuck in aluminum.

Threads like this are a good reminder for me to go out and put some preventative lube on the bleeders of my vehicles brakes.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Since it has a hole n the middle of it, do they make an "ez out" that small?

I would be very concerned with using a small easy out.... "snap!".

Visegrips locked on the outside will give one all the torque they need (too much, maybe).

Thanks for all the replies. I think I will try the heat method since WD40 didn't do the trick (no PB Blaster in Poland). I also forgot to mention that the head of the bleeder screws is ripped off. So yeah - will try to weld a nut to it or just heat it up with a torch and try to rotate them out.

I'm assuming the caliper is to be removed and drained before heat /welding is applied, just wanted to mention it.

quote Originally posted by cebix: Thanks for all the replies. I think I will try the heat method since WD40 didn't do the trick (no PB Blaster in Poland). I also forgot to mention that the head of the bleeder screws is ripped off. So yeah - will try to weld a nut to it or just heat it up with a torch and try to rotate them out.

Look for Liquid Wrench or anything called penetrating oil (not really looking for a lubricate). WD-40 is not either one of these

Oh... the top of the bleeder is gone? You may have to try an extractor tool, as 2.5 mentioned. Get the largest one that will fit and don't put too much pressure on it. They can snap off... staying stuck in the bleeder. You may have able to drill out the bleeder, some, so you just leave the threads of the bleeder and then try the extractor.

Worse case... you can use a bleeder repair kit... something like this (check for proper size):
http://shop.advanceautopart...ews-13916/17190241-P

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 10-18-2016).]

This worked on my 88. Couldn't find any replacement calipers and I needed the car. Done a little under a year ago and no problems. And yes, disassemble, clean and rebuild.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: I'm assuming the caliper is to be removed and drained before heat /welding is applied, just wanted to mention it.

Nope, I have always welded the nut on the bleeder with the caliper on the car and with whatever fluid is in it. It helps keep the heat localized to the bleeder screw and minimal heat transfer to the caliper housing or the piston seals. Any pressure build up from heating the fluid can flow back through the master.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-18-2016).]

I have had several people recommend a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. They swear by it, say it's just as good if not better than Kroil on rusted parts.

quote Originally posted by Larryinkc: I have had several people recommend a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. They swear by it, say it's just as good if not better than Kroil on rusted parts.

yup..

bleeders only need some soaking and a little heat, to not break them..

quote Originally posted by Larryinkc: I have had several people recommend a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. They swear by it, say it's just as good if not better than Kroil on rusted parts.

I have heard that as well.

Thanks everyone. Welding nuts to the corroded bleeders did the trick.

There is a tool for just this sort of thing. Been around forever. It's called a hammer socket. Should be available in a good auto parts store. While your there get both the 10mm and 8mm version. It is exactly what it sounds like. It's a socket just for bleeders that protects the nipple while you hammer.

Use a box end wrench and apply force while you tap the end of the socket with a hammer. First light then harder with the hammer if it doesn't let go. Do not break off your bleeder. Stop before that happens. If it doesn't come off at first, then heat the bleeder with a torch and go again.

I've never broken a bleeder, and I live in the rust belt.

Well, there was no nipple to begin with so I guess that tool wouldn't do the trick. But thanks for the idea, I'll keep that in mind for the future!

I got a repair kit from ebay (sorry no link) which I believe was intended for Harleys.

I made a real mess of the hole for the bleeder after drilling it out (was completely seized in there, tried all the 'right' things first) so needed a different approach.

The kit has a smaller bleeder, which screws into a brass bush, making a new seal. The existing bleeder hole is drilled out to the correct size and tapped for the bush. loctite (i forget what number, but the stuff for things you never want to come out again) on the threads and in goes the bush.

You've then got a brass bleeder in a brass hole so no more dissimilar metal corrosion. Worked a treat for me.

As per the previous comments, this requires a complete strip down of the caliper to remove any swarf, and you need the new threaded hole to be absolutely spotless to make sure the loctite isn't contaminated.

I'd only recommend the above as a last resort when you've already done something stupid and made a hash of the existing hole though. It was cheaper for me to get the right size drill bit, tap and the repair piece than to order a reman caliper (shipping to the UK is expensive...)