As I was wAiting for the control arm paint to dry, I decided to remove the front seat bar to paint it before changing its bushings when I went to remove the bracket bolt , I broke the bolt for my front sway bar bushing clamp in the chassis....so bummed. These bolts are rusted BAD.... Still hoping i can remove the pas side steering rack strap clamp so I can get a new lower control arm bolt in (front pass side Lower control arm bolt) I hope those boys don't want to grab and snap too.

This stinks.... I have never had any luck with an ez-out I've had them break out and make things even more of a problem.

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Founder / President
Long Island's Little Fiero Owners Club
L.I.L.F.O.C.
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"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT 3800sc series 2
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"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12, VIN #5835, Stock PRV engine, Peugot 604 Intake manifold, Exhaust headers, Anti-3rd brake light

Hosed it all down with PB blaster? It helps. If something is rusty it really helps to do it daily for a few days.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Hosed it all down with PB blaster? It helps. If something is rusty it really helps to do it daily for a few days.

X2 That penetrant stuff works.
Then after a couple of days, tap the bolt head with a hammer and put the wrench to it. If its a nut use a punch or long 1/4" grade 8 bolt to tap on the side but don't hit too hard.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Been there, done that. I ended up using the Dremel and a carbide bit to grind a dimple into the broken bolt, then drill it out. While I was at it, I enlarged and tapped the bolt holes for SAE 3/8" bolts, and put some Grade 8 bolts in there.

It would be very possible to open that up for larger bolts. I snapped off the >LAST< bolt in my front suspension/subframe swap...I ended up drilling it out to 5/8" and then running a grade 8 1/2" carriage bolt and custom plate into the frame- The weld nut for the subframe bolts are larger than 5/8" in diameter- I could have tapped it to 7/16" and run that size bolt- but I wasn't sure of the size until I drilled it out to 5/8" and still had some metal left....I used a thick washer before the plate to clear the remains of the nut. And it is very hard to get any PB blaster in there- It needs to go up on top of the nut- and there is no access inside the frame rail.

TIp: If you drill broken bolts out use diamond or carbide drills. They will get that hole opened up in short order and minimize the chance that the bit will break off in there. In the case referenced here the caged nut has broken loose from its mount fin the frame. In extreme cases the nut needs to be cut out and another nut mig welded in place.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Ok drilled it out today oversized to a 3/8 16 thread hole . Bolt was $.54 at hardware store (hardened). So I'll have an oversized "special thread" only in that one spot.

With heating and soaking and tapping and jerking the ratchet instead of
Applying constant pressure, I was able to get the other three bolts out successfully.

Hopefully the steering rack bolts will ease out so I can get the pass side front LCA bolt in

[This message has been edited by Lou and Blue (edited 07-21-2016).]