Well, I'm back!! Feel's like I'm playing Wack-A-Mole. Every time I take a step forward, something else pops up.

Anyway, started experiencing some issues yesterday- Crazy charging up to 19V. Background: '95 3800SC Series 1, 4T60e, 16183247 PCM. I'm using a CS130D alternator from a '97 Suburban ( chosen for size). Wiring has pin L on the alternator going to RB4 on the PCM. RB1 from the PCM goes through C500 to the Charge Warning Lamp. Pin S on the Alternator is connected to 12V positive ( Fuel Pump Power wire). Up until yesterday, was charging fine--Voltage on the scanner from 14.1 to 14.4. Voltage gauge reading same. Did a couple of small projects yesterday- Installed DEI 530 Express Window Module; Wired up Switch for Performance Trans input; Wired up switch for turning on High Fan; wired up switch for switching a relay, which changes which temp sender is being "viewed" by the temp gauge ( Water or Trans Temp). Power for the DEI module is coming directly from the Fuse Panel BAT via a new connector, and is fused 20 amp. Power for the additional switches is coming from C203 Pin K. Grnd for the additional switches is coming from the PCM area (can't remember where I tapped for this- but might be an issue worth tracking down).

All of a sudden, when starting the car, rev's went to 2000+ and stayed there. Got EST error, although no MIL light. Knock count was 2. Cleared memory, restarted car, no EST error, but rev's still high, although they did come down to normal after about 1-2 minutes of run time.

Strange part was Alternator charging-- was now bouncing wildly between 15-19 V, sometimes bouncing below 10. Voltage gauge was going crazy, MIL light was flashing on/off very fast, and interior lights were glowing, then dimming in time with the MIL light flashing and voltage changes.

I pulled the alternator and had it tested- tested OK. Re-installed , and now no charging at all. Pulled the I/F pin on the alternator ( I don't think I have it connected, but wanted to be sure) - no change. Removed the alternator and took it to a different auto parts store for testing- same result- tested OK.

Only thing I could think of is the PCM is going bad. Would that cause Crazy / no signal on the L pin of the Alternator, causing no charge or wild high charge? Swapping in another PCM is a possibility, but it's 110 OAT today, and inside the cars at the Pick and Pull- probably more like 130-140! Not crazy about having that experience if I don't need to.

Backprobe pin S and see if you are perhaps getting weird sense voltages. That could cause the alternator output to vary.

You only need the large B+ wire and two connections for a CS130 or CS 130D alternator to work or be tested.

If you have the straight connector you have the CS 130D alternator with the internal fan. The pins are labeled S I L P
Pin I will go to a 12V ignition source.
Pin L will go to the charge light. If you do not run a charge light then a 15 ohm 2 watt resistor must be in the circuit connected to a 12V ignition source.

If you have the CS130 external fan alternator the connections will be different. Pin L will go to the charge lamp (or a resistance wire )and pin S can simply be connected to the alternator B+ 12 V post.

The overcharge voltage could be that your connection to the internal regulator lacks the right resistance .


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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-09-2016).]

OK. More info. Tested the "S" wire, and got nominal battery voltage, so that is OK. When alt is plugged in, still get the bouncing of the dash voltage gauge, MIL light flashing on/off, High idle, etc. Unplugged the alternator, restarted the car, and all the crazy happenings in the cab went away, but of course the Volt Gauge in the dash was showing maybe 10v.. Hard wired a line from the "L" terminal on the Alt, through a lamp( for load), to 12v, and started the car, and it ran and idled normally. Amp reading at the alternator was normal- 14.0-14.2. Ran this way until the car got hot enough to trigger the fans, but now the fans would not come on. Tunerpro still showing some crazy voltages- from 25 down to 16, and settled around 16 ( when the voltmeter on the alt was showing 14.1).

The fact that the alternator cannot be controlled via the "L" line from the PCM, and the fact that the fans now won't work ( unless I turn on the AC), I'm thinking the PCM may have bitten the dust. On top of all this, I cannot get TunerPro to load on my PC now- keep getting the screen of death. Reloaded the program several times, with no luck. May have to go out and buy another PC too!

Would wiring in an aux grounding switch tapped into the Fan High Speed Signal line to the relay cause an issue with the PCM?? That's the only thing I have done that is way outside the box just before this happened. Maybe I messed up a Quad Driver??

This past week. Installed the much fresher 2005 3800 N/A VIN Kin place of the 1998 VIN 1.
Going over some minor issues. Wiring up a 3 wire ECT to get my temp gauge working right. Tightening up the oil sending unit to stop an oil leak. Started resorting some of the harness. Since last fall, Iv'e had to use it as my daily driver. So I have to keep up on stuff. Sometimes in a hurry.
It's not a SC. but I'm happy with the outcome. The belt side of the engine is much easier to work with now.
Back to my reply. I kind of ran into this issue before on my 85, and forgot about it until going over this one. First started noticing the volt meter wandering more than normal when loads cam on (rad fan). Oil gauge would bounce down a little when the brake lights came on. Thought the alternator was going south. Put another in. Found a recently reman one at the pick and pull. 1999 Cavalier CS130d are cheap and plentiful. Rechecked the belt stuff again. Got to the point that the radio would go nuts when the door was open and I stepped on the brake. But would start right up. Checked the grounds. Was getting ready to start going through the harness and bulk connectors again. Then my memory kicked me in the head.
Check the 2 studs where the fuse link wires come together. Sure enough. Took them apart, cleaned them up a little, reconnected everything and it's happy again.
On your setup I would make a dedicated Battery Sense for the PCM to that connector. If you are using the PCM to control the alternator. Also bouncing voltages seen at the PCM normally is a weak ground.

[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 06-09-2016).]

An update to my investigations:

Alternator appears to be working correctly when not controlled by the ECM. When 12v is applied to the "L" pin, through a resistance(lamp) Alternator puts out 14.1 to 14.2 volts steadily. Voltmeter looks normal. Turner pro still reporting 16-17 V ( vs actual 14.1) , and the coolant temp ( and other readings) are bouncing around enough that I'm concerned about what I am seeing on the scanner. Wasn't doing this a couple of weeks ago.

Tested voltage on the "L" pin coming from the ECM, and was getting 6-12 volts, bouncing wildly. Was supposed to be about 12v ( battery voltage). Test from another site indicated that this was a bad PCM.

Ran engine until it got hot, but fans would not kick on ( as they did before). Had to turn on AC to get low speed fan to come on. Another indication that the PCM might be bad. Checked the PCM and it was a rebuilt ( hear that they had a lot of trouble with them for 94-95).

So, with the Fan issue, and the alternator issue on pin "L", thinking the PCM is bad. Go the the pick and pull, and pull 2 ECM's- both re-manufactured units Took the one with the newest date code. Swapped the prom, installed and had exactly the same issues. Not likely that the PCM from the yard had the same issues, so back to spark chasing

Checked the grounds for the PCM, and the power connectors as well. Could find no issues, but cleaned and tightened everything again.

What I haven't done:-- your thought's appreciated

1) confirmed whether it is a bad idea to wire in an emergency switch to trigger high speed fan
2) haven't tried going back to an older version of the BIN file to see if that changes anything
3) haven't tried changing the Blue MemCal pack to see if there is something screwed up in there- The one I am running is from the Riviera, but the Bin file is from a Bonneville.

A lot of this you may already know.
Still looks like a ground problem. may not be at the connectors, may be broken wire. Get a lot of that right near the ends near the connectors. May want to wiggle the wires around, while looking at the voltages to see if they change.
There are several voltage regulators in the PCM that depend highly on good grounds. Each 2 wire(coolant temp, air temp) sensor has it's own. Three wire sensors use one. You could look at the voltage at the TPS 5v reference also while wiggling, to see if it wanders. Also check for battery voltage difference, tested at the battery, body, subframe and the engine/transmission. Looking for bad ground straps between the body and engine.
On the Coolant temp, higher temps pull that voltage down. If you have wandering voltages, the PCM may not see the line pulled down enough to see high temps to turn on the fan. Or a flakey ground could keep the PCM from making a good circuit to turn on the relay.
I'm sorry I am bending on checking for bad grounds so much. But most PCM failures are confined to one system. (fan control, EST, injector control, ect.) When you have multiple issues, normally it is in the wiring.

Thanks to Chris and all for your thoughts. I'm now up to

Tried a bunch of different stuff today with no real success.

Swapped in old BIN file- no difference
Swapped MemCals' Tried all combinations of MEMcal's and known working BIN's- no difference.
Swapped PCM's. No difference
Checked all grounds. - especially those to the PCM. All checked out good
Checked all power connections to the PCM . All good.
Checked all power connections near C500. All good.
Checked "L" signal wire from ECM to Alternator at Alternator. Should be <.5mv at ON, 12V in Run. Got <.5MV in RUN.
Checked "L" signal wire at back of PCM, and got same results. PCM is not outputing 12V to Alternator on the L wire.
If Alternator plug is left out, engine runs well. No Charging. 12.75V on Alternator Wire to C500 distribution point. Large cable from there to Starter, and then from starter to Battery.
If "L" terminal on alternator is connected to 12V (Bypassing PCM), alternator charges at 14.1-14.4 V.
I'm thinking of hard wiring the "L" wire , using the 12V side of the Heated O2 sensor, through a resistor, to the "L" terminal. Won't fix the problem, but at least it will keep the battery charged while I continue to search. Would likely have to use a switch on the Fan to trigger cooling as well.

What's driving me crazy is that is was running and driving good last week- I put about 100 miles on it, and even charged up the AC. It was when I was out driving with the AC on that I noticed a crazy vibration, that turned out to be a cracked fan blade. So I parked the Fiero, and ordered a new fan. While I was waiting, thought I would get a couple of small projects done ( express windows, a couple of auxiliary switches, etc). All this crazy stuff started while I was waiting on the fan.... Dang, I HATE Spark Chasing.. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, or chasing the wrong gremlin??

NEW INFO:

Went out this morning, just to check the Volt Light as a possibility. Volt light was on with Key (Good), so for the heck of it I started it up. Started and ran perfectly. Alternator put out 15.1 volts, and slowly came down to 14.84 volts, as measured at the alternator. I back probed the "L" terminal at the alternator, and got the correct 12+v. I let it idle, wanting it to get up to temp to see if the fans would come on. It idled about 10 minutes, not yet up to fan turn on temp, when all of a sudden the voltage on the dash gauge dropped below 13. Checked the voltage at the alternator, and it was 12.75 ( battery voltage). Voltage on the "L" terminal was now 10mv.

So my guess now is either the alternator got hot and shut itself down, or the PCM got hot and went wacky.

Would appreciate your thoughts on this new info!

I don't want to steer you in the wrong directions. Things just don't seem right. You are hitting it with enough know how to do this.
Where did you get the wiring diagrams from. The most accurate ones I found for the PCM I'm using were from Mitchels(Pro Demand). Even with that I have found small errors. I had to use some from a Park Avenue and a Bonneville SSEI to get most of what I needed. And still finding a few things. Even though they use the same PCM only the Bonneville shown the trans performance switch. Only the Park Avenue shown the dark blue wire for the PWM TCC control. I have had a pesky code 56, shown in many charts as QDMB for shift solenoids A/B, PWM TCC control and EGR. Only comes on at decel when completely off the gas pedal and goes back out about 3 seconds when bringing the gas back up. Other than that the car runs fine. Already checked all solenoids at their ends and readings at the PCM. Only to find out the other day by accident, there is a footnote on one chart that shown only on SC that code 56 can also be boost control. Go figure. Because I didn't trust Tuner Pro's files. I only edited the Timing table ( copied and pasted the table into the SC bin)when I went to the N/A engine and left the rest of the code alone. Using an old program. I may have to go back to my base N/A bin and edit it all over again. Every time I use Tuner Pro and do a compare after an edit I get other little changes I didn't make. The old (dos)program is consistant, but cumbersome and doesn't have as many options as Tuner Pro. Boost control being one of them.
The only reason I bring this up, is you can't trust every thing. You may have to go back to before you made changes. When everything was happy. The PCM I'm using was used in SC and N/A cars for 2 years and a few trucks after that. It is fairly robust, but can't support ODB type controls. The PCM you are using was a bit more obscure and the literature may not all be correct.

Thanks Chris. For wiring, I'm using the Factory Service Manuals for the Donor, and they match up pretty well with Ryan's spreadsheets.

Thanks to Ryan too for his thoughts via email.

Update: I was able to get a newly re-manufactured PCM from my local auto parts store to try ( I have good contacts there! ). Installed the new PCM but got the same conditions, so I returned the new PCM.

Today, I start "Spark Chasing". Figure I will re-buzz every wire again, and also check voltages at the PCM per the FSM.

[This message has been edited by darbysan (edited 06-16-2016).]

Update: well, I've buzzed out every wire on the PCM. I also took voltage measurements via Backprobing all of the PCM connectors, both in "ON" and with the engine running. Voltage readings matched up the FSM chart, and all grounds measured at less than 1 ohm.

Decided to just try some stuff for investigation.

First discovery is that when the Alt connector is plugged in, Voltage on the "L" pin bounces between 5 and 17 volts ( measured at the alt. Voltage on the scanner is bouncing between 10 and 25v). RPM's are high-around 2500. If I connect the scanner, RPM's drop to normal (850). If I disconnect the scanner ( Tunerpro , XP Laptop), voltage on "L" drops to 0, RPM's go back up. Also, coolant temp readout on laptop is about 40 degrees cooler than actual.

If I drive the "L" pin via a direct line to voltage lamp, charging is steady at about 14.1 V. Voltage on "L" wire ( now unplugged) is 0. Connect laptop, and voltage on "L" wire goes to 12V steady, but now ESC error pops up, and MIL light is triggered on. Scanner is reporting voltage at 16-17, while Meter at Alt is showing 14.2v. Disconnect the laptop, and about 3 seconds later the MIL light goes off, and the voltage on the "L" wire goes back to 0. ESC error code disappears.

It is very repeatable that connecting / disconnecting inside Tunerpro ( not disconnecting any wires), causes dramatic change to charge output wire, MIL light, ESC error, and fan turn on. I'm thinking that somehow the PCM is finding a ground through the data line when connected, through the PC, and back.

This may be obvious to some, but I've been looking at this for so long now everything looks like a solution / problem. It feels like a grounding issue, but I'm at a loss as to where else to look, or how to look differently at the grounds, to figure it out.

Being a 1995 PCM, I can't tell. What are you using to communicate with the PCM? IF it was the older ALDL protocal, I would say a ground issue or the interface is causing it to go into field service mode. If it is ODB type protocal I would say it would be the interface is dragging down the ODB power line somehow.
The older interfaces, have to get their power externally( lighter/ battery) or USB/ALDL uses the USB power from the laptop. ODB has power at the connector.

A non induced ( triggered through a scanner with that capability)ESC error would be PCM (can't control ICM) ICM ( can't accept control or other problem normally would be the ICM won't "switch" from start to ESC control. When you first start the ICM is in bypass untill the PCM recieves cam/crank signals then switches to PCM control) Or bad ground at the ICM harness. That one is separate form the PCM harness. That ground( in it's stock location) is on a stud that holds the ignition assembly on the forward head. And I see broken wires in that ground a lot. Have also seen when the PCM has a weak ground, it will loop through the ignition harness to that ground. But you ESC errors are only when you have the scanner hooked up?
Sound like you have a loaded wiring issue. When the circuit is not loaded the test show OK. But under load, something gives up.
Like checking a Christmas tree light. With the bulb in, it doesn't work. Bulb out the ground and hot check OK. With the load of the bulb the weak spot gives up.
3 places that are good for loaded problems.
The body ground to the PCM near the stock PCM location. The hole and eyelet will get paint or oxidation under it and test OK but under load will give up.
I rehash that one, because you mentioned you were there right before this all happened.
Grease, oil, or other crap on the bolt between the engine and transmission that has the PCM grounds on it. Get broken wires in the harness near the end there too. Take each wire and pull on them. If it stretches any, the copper is broken inside the shielding. The copper will have breaks right before the crimp.
I may be sounding like a broken record/skipping CD(for the younger folks). But the studs under the C500 connector to the fuse links. I have had 2 different occasions that I had to remove all the wires, remove the plastic holder from the body to turn over to inspect for bad spots in the back where the studs come through the back. They will get hot at the back of the stud post heating, up the strip of metal that connects them together and can't be seen from the outside. I don't know if your PCM uses a memory line like mine or the stock PCM. The tan wire that has a disconnect that goes to those studs. But that line is also sometimes used for battery sense. Also some ODBII wiring uses that line for power to the ODBII connector. Or another hot at all times circuit. lighter/ctsy

[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 06-17-2016).]

Thanks, Chris. I'll take the c500 power connector apart tomorrow.

For info, I'm using a USB aldl cable . Wired aldl1 connector with proper pins from aldl2 .
connector. Assume power for interface comes via USB.

OK, cleaned up the C500 12v post ( it looked pretty good already),and also cleaned up the Engine to Body Ground and the ICM ground. Both grounds checked out at less than 1 ohm ( went down to 0).

Decided to try the engine. Started up and ran perfectly. Voltage at the Alt "L" wire was a healthy 12.85. Ran good for about 1 minute, and then started doing the voltage jumping all over the place again. Voltage at the "L" terminal was going from 4v to 18v, changing about 2 times per second. Possibly some sensor coming on line when it goes closed loop?? ICM coming out of bypass ? ( thought this would happen much sooner than 1 minute).

The light flash is typical of being in Field Service Mode. Mostly older ECMs, when you shorted the ALDL connector to read codes would also go into field service mode. With engine off would flash codes, but running the light indicates when it crosses over rich/lean. Depending on the PCM. other stuff is centered. Older carburated ECMs would run the speed control motor in and out to check the motor. Distributor cars would have the timing centered. EFI cars would have the IAC closed or at a set spot to adjust idle stop. Some fans on. Some fans off. While running could have different functions.
You may want to look into Tuner Pro or your interfaces options. Older ECMS only had an option to be in field service while sending data. But most later PCMs had option to send data without being in field service mode. I vaguely remember that the 1994 -1995 could be put into and taken out of service mode through the scanner. Think the choices were, Normal, Code read, Data , Data and field service. But that was using a MAC scanner.
On your L terminal readings. May want to see if that terminal is controlled by pwm. If that is the case the voltmeter would show 0-12. And the readings would be normal. It may be that you are seeing the readings between the meters display refresh rate. If it is pwm, if you use an analogue meter the needle would give you a better indication of the pulse width. Or you would have to use a scope to see the square wave and look for the narrowing or widening of the pulse width. On a digital meter you are going to see all or nothing.
What does the car do, if memory reset, start, don't connect at all. Does rpms come down very slowly over a period of several minutes. Mine does every time memory is reset.
The PCMs right before ODBII had many different features compared to standard ALDL. First you don't know what is reset when disconnecting memory line. This was when they started having some things not reset to follow some of the ODBII spec. One thing I find interesting was the ignition system. Same system(Icm down to the coils)from 1992 -around 2004. So the ignition was capable of sensing misfires and show it on ODBII. When in the PCM development did they implement it? It may be that it is there. But no way to report it in the ALDL protocal and would need a GM scanner to use it.
Do you have access to a made for scanner?

[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 06-19-2016).]

The '95 PCM I am using was the last year of OBD1, and was the hybrid year. It ssed OBDII connector, but OBD1 Protocol. No ability to flash the codes like on older PCM's. The MIL light flashing that is occuring for me is in time with the voltage going up/down. The Voltage to the "L" pin is not PWM. It is DC voltage,and when measured should be at 0 when engine not running and Generator not turning, and at 12 V when engine is in Run. The bouncing of the voltage also corresponds the the bouncing of the Voltmeter in the car, and the flashing lights on the MIL. Hard wiring the "L" term to the Volt light should take the PCM out of the loop for alternator control.

It's a real head scratcher. Think my next "test" will be to re-wire the ALDL connector to be sure there is nothing funny going on there, and then maybe hard wire test leads from Engine Ground to the PCM grounds as a test. I've also got feelers out to the Tunerpro community to see if they can explain the interaction between connecting Tunerpro and the engine run anomalies. There are no specific setttings in tunerpro for accessing Data Only, Test, etc, but that doesn't mean that some of the more intricate commands buried deep in Tunerpro might not be doing some of that.

The strange part for me is that the car won't idle under 2000 rpm's unless the laptop is connected, and Tunerpro is connected within the laptop. That indicates that the software inside Tunerpro is doing something to bring the idle down to 900. So I have a problem outside of Tunerpro that is causing the high idle, and it's not the usual suspects ( vacuum leak, bad IAC, etc) because as soon as Tunerpro connects, everything settles down to normal.

Well, done a lot of tracking, etc over the last week. Opened up the harness and traced every ground, and every power wire. No issues found. Ran a ground directly from the battery to the engine as a test- no change. Tried 4 different PCM's- no real change. Tried 3 different MEMCALS- no change. Reloaded my Burn software, and bought new Eproms and re-burned them- no change.

Chris, one option for me might be to go back to a '93 PCM. Do you happen to have the pinouts for the one you used??? Maybe a BIN file ??? IF that doesn't work, my next step will be to yank it all out and start over. Not looking forward to all the extra work of a swap, seeing as it's well over 100 now through the end of the summer. In addition, I just hate giving up

I'm going away for the weekend and will be back Tuesday. I'll try to remember to scan the wiring diagrams then.
If you are going to swap PCMs, here are a few things that I did. The white tach wire and the pink/blk power, that comes off the C500 connector on the 2.8. I took those wires out of the 3800 harness and installed a weather pack connector to the ignition module for those wires. I used another weather pack connector for the green(gauge 3 wire ECT) temperature sensor wire, from the 3800 harness the green/wht to fan control, oil pressure, to the corresponding wires on the C500 connector. This reduced the wires coming through the driver's side bulk head. You will have to wire the temp light to the PCM. Best place is at the C203. If you don't you will get a nagging QDMA code. I used the stock cruise, but used the other VSS/2000 out from the PCM. I ran the wire that used to go from the speedo to the cruise using an unused pin on the C203. That also reduced the wiring for PCM that would be used for the cruise. I think that was about 8 wires. I removed the pins for that at the PCM. There are some that like digital cruise, but this cuts down on a lot of PCM wiring. By the way, I'm using a digital dash from a 1987 Olds Calais. Everything works and it directly connects to the VSS/4000 out from the PCM(no buffer).

I have the wiring diagram for the 93 PCM sitting in the sun visor. Do you have the older harness or at least the PCM connectors. The pins at the PCM are different.
Between the EFI ECMs and the ODB PCMS they had a iteration of different pins. Yours should be like the later ones with the small round pins. The EFI ECMs had card edge connectors. Mine has small square pins. The 1992-1993 3800 SC uses a 3 solenoid EGR instead of a linear digital, used on later models. Also the SC engines only had 2 solenoids in the EGR, the 3rd one is turned off in the bin. If you have the triangular connector on the EGR, it is the same. If it is the inline pin connector, it is the linear. There is only one knock sensor. I moved mine from the rear side(right behind the timing cover)to the front side next to the starter using the block drain hole. It uses the older round connector. You may also have to pick up an older MAF. But to be honest I have used a 1993 MAF, a 1998 MAF and a 2005 MAF and have not had an issue with that on this PCM. It was hear say that the 1994-1997 MAFs were mapped different.
If you have a 93 PCM, see if it is the 16141470. I have a few bins. The SC bins were modified from a 1993 Park avenue ultra. I don't have the SC OE bin anymore. I may have it buried in my hard drive somewhere. The ones I have had VATS turned off, road constant set for my ratio and tires (2.97 final 215/55/16 with 30 teeth at the reluctor. If I remember the stock Park avenue was 2.93 29 teeth. Lowered the fuel freak out to 5700 rpm and lowered the fan temps.
You will need to check the internal wiring for you transmission. The 16141470 uses PWM TCC, TCC control ,solenoid A, solenoid B, WITHOUT temp sensor.
OK for the last part of this. The editor I'm using was a gift from another member who wrote GMEPRO. It is a DOS program. I use "DOS BOX" to run it in win 8.1. I have not had one area that the bins were screwed up after editing. Unless I screwed it up. The com file is written very well. It covers 1992-1993 3800 SC and N/A. I only use TunerPro for the compare and graph features. TunerPro's files are a little buggy. Sometimes it edits at the wrong address. I found this out while taking a N/A file and pasting a SC timing table to it to get as close to what I needed. When I looked at the timing table in the graph, it had irregularities that I could not trust running. It also had some other odd address issues when I edited VATS.
I had posted the issues I was having with TunerPro and a fellow member spotted where the problems were. He then sent me a copy of GME. With the files for 1992/1993 3800. The man did this out of the kindness of his heart and the respect for someone turning a Fiero into a 3.8 "gallon" Fiero using pre ODB.
Now you have to remember that he spent a lot of time on this when he developed it. It used to be the GM editor before ODB. And it was a commercial program. Just no one uses it anymore.
I had offered to pay him for the program but he just gave it to me. So out of respect for his time I have to have you get a hold of him, and not just give you a copy.
If you contact him he will most likely be helpful, But remember this is a program he has not supported in over 15 years.
Look up "TK" in the members list. He is the author of GMEPRO. Also I didn't tell you this.

Thanks for the Info Chris. I've got a scanner coming early next week, and I want to see what it reads. After that, I'll make a decision.

Wondering if the MEMCAL itself could be bad. I only have the one Memcal from an L67 ( from the Riviera). I have a couple of L27 MEMCALS, but I'm guessing they won't work properly. I also do not have a MEMCAL that specifically matches the PROM BCC that I got from RYAN- his came from a Bonneville. It's interesting that the Scanner that is coming is supposed to read all of these OBD1.5 ECM's, except the Riviera! Don't know if that's the PROM or the MEMCAL causing this, since the PCM is the same.

FINAL:
Got a different scanner (Actron) and ran the numbers. Still getting low IAT, ECT, and Trans temps ( about 40 degrees low), and High Volts ( 2-3 volts over alternator output). Still stumped, as the only thing left not changed is the MEMCAL, and have not been able to find another SC memcal locally.

The Junk Yard agreed to take back the engine ( warranty expires on Monday), so I will finish pulling it today, and will start the install of my 2000 GTP engine/trans/wiring. 3rd times the charm

Thanks to all that tried helping on chasing down this gremlin. Sure wish I could have found it- I would sleep better.