The passenger side headlight motor is getting energized, with no key in the ignition, as soon as I connect the single blue wire round connector.
Also, I can only use the manual open turn knob with this same single blue wire round connector disconnected. After I manually open the headlight with the connector disconnected, as soon as I connect the connector once again, the motor rewinds down to the closed position.
I have swap motors and relays, but it still happens after these components have been changed out, so I am thinking it must be a wiring issue.
test light is your friend, if there is juice in it with the ignition off there is a problem in the wires somewhere. check to make sure a PO didn't put an extra wire into the fuse box that maybe live all the time and that maybe all it is. maybe a single strand of wire in the fuse panel could be hitting the headlight circuit.
trace the wires in the plug back as far as you can and check for cut wires that could cause a short.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
When I had this problem, it was the motor failing to close the limit switch. The blue wire is just for closing the headlight. If it keeps spinning after closing, the limit switch is failing to maintain its' closed position. Could be that you switched out a second motor with the same issue.
When I had this problem, it was the motor failing to close the limit switch. The blue wire is just for closing the headlight. If it keeps spinning after closing, the limit switch is failing to maintain its' closed position. Could be that you switched out a second motor with the same issue.
Are there any repairs that can be done to the Gen. 1 'limit switch'? These motors are not as easy to obtain in the aftermarket.
The ignition switch isn't part of the headlight circuit. Whether it's on or off is irrelevant. If the headlight switch is in the OFF position, manually raising the headlight then plugging the blue wire will cause the light to retract.
There is 12V going to the headlight limiter switch at all times. The two sets of points on the limiter switch keep the motor from staying energized. There is no repair that can be made to the limiter switches, other than Rodney Dickman's brush replacement kit. Be very careful when removing or installing the limiter switch so that you don't snag a brush on the armature and snap it off the spring arm.
Since you've swapped positions with the motor relays and still have the problem, your problem may be in the light switch itself, or in the Isolation relay that's mounted on the left fender wall. More likely the isolation relay, and the only source for one is from another Fiero. Though the isolation relay looks like the relays located on the light assembly and will plug in, they aren't the same and will not interchange in their function.
If the headlight motor continues to spin once it reaches full up or down, then the gear is stripped and should be replaced. If you would like the motor rebuilt, I charge $30 labor, plus cost of gear and shipping.
Edit for bad advice. With the passenger motor fully installed, manually spin the knob to close, with the blue wire disconnected. When it closes, you should feel resistance on the knob. Keep turning a few more times. If the tension gives up or clicks, then the internals are stripped.
[This message has been edited by viperine (edited 01-10-2016).]
