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vertical door hinge install. help with wires. by crashmydaytona
Started on: 11-12-2015 12:33 PM
Replies: 27 (1110 views)
Last post by: jetsnvettes2000 on 10-23-2017 11:18 PM
crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-12-2015 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am working on installing my v8 Archie vertical door hinges. Cant decide what to do with the wireing. My thoughts are to cut the factory boot in half so i can use the ends to plug the large holes in the door and firewall. Extend the wires in the middle and tape off the ends of both boots to seal things up. Not sure this is the best way. Anybody have some ideas on what to do.
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Report this Post11-12-2015 12:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lou_diasSend a Private Message to lou_diasEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I bought a kit 2 or 3 years ago and it's still sitting in my basement...so I'll be interested to see what comes of this thread.
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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-12-2015 12:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
here are some pics of what I mean. The factory holes a very large I think I will have to use the factory boot ends to plug them. I will just cut it in the middle install each end then add extended wires between and tape it up. Don't want want to start cutting until I get some opinions.





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Report this Post11-12-2015 02:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Use those contact pins, found in show cars, and get rid of the wiring? You shouldn't need power to the door with it up. I am not sure how they work in the weather, but something to think about.

Otherwise, move the wiring closer to the pivot point of the door, so you don't need as much wiring?

What do other vertical door kits do about wiring? Google image search results seemed to show different options.

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 11-12-2015).]

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Orig88GT-NC
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Report this Post11-12-2015 03:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm also working on the door wiring issue right now like you. I'm going to take the stock rubber wiring sleeve, trim it .... a fit a rubber hole grommet inside.... than using split spiral rap around the wires... slide into the grommet... It should look descent, and hold up well.
I post some pics when I get a chance..

------------------
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Report this Post11-12-2015 03:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thats what i would probably do myself if i was doing them.
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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-12-2015 04:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:

Use those contact pins, found in show cars, and get rid of the wiring? You shouldn't need power to the door with it up. I am not sure how they work in the weather, but something to think about.

Otherwise, move the wiring closer to the pivot point of the door, so you don't need as much wiring?

What do other vertical door kits do about wiring? Google image search results seemed to show different options.



The contact pins would be a clean way to do it but it would be over $100 a door to use them. Not in my budget. I do like the idea of moving the wiring closer to the pivot point. I will check to see if its possible.
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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-12-2015 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

crashmydaytona

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I would like to see pics of your wiring before I do anything. I will procrastinate until you post some pics.

 
quote
Originally posted by Orig88GT-NC:

I'm also working on the door wiring issue right now like you. I'm going to take the stock rubber wiring sleeve, trim it .... a fit a rubber hole grommet inside.... than using split spiral rap around the wires... slide into the grommet... It should look descent, and hold up well.
I post some pics when I get a chance..



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Neils88
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Report this Post11-12-2015 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by crashmydaytona:


The contact pins would be a clean way to do it but it would be over $100 a door to use them. Not in my budget. I do like the idea of moving the wiring closer to the pivot point. I will check to see if its possible.


Does someone have a web link to a product that would be used? I haven't even thought about the wiring issue with my doors yet...but that might be great for my build.
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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-12-2015 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post11-12-2015 07:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by crashmydaytona:

Here you go.
http://www.dakotadigital.co...ct_id=103/prd103.htm


Thanks for the link! Those are great, and much cheaper than I thought.
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Report this Post11-12-2015 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Some Pics......
I'm at the same point as you in doing this, but this is what I've come up with...
Cutting the original wire harness rubber sleeve ends off and inserting a through hole grommet inside each end piece.Black wire split loom to cover the wires and securing with a black wire tie wrap.
I have to go and purchase some larger rubber through hole grommets and one size larger split loom than what I have shown in the photos -( I added additional wiring )


The tricky part will be fitting the wire harness around the hinge plate where it goes into the door cavity. It will be tight but I'm sure it will make it.


●The harness between the door and the frame, I plan on securing to the hinge plate to keep it from pinching or binding.

●I looked into moving the harness higher/(closer to the hinge point) but didn't find a good way to route the wiring that high up in the door or into the cabin........

●Other item I found in the past but really wont work is this stainless steel sleeve. ( Inside Diameters is way to small for power windows/locks wiring )

AutoLoc - Door Loom

● The Door Electrical Contact plates are a cool idea, But the Fiero's door jambs really don't layout very well for this application.

RodTronics - Electrical Contacts

I'm open to other ideas, maybe somebody else has a better mousetrap.
edit to: fix link

[This message has been edited by Orig88GT-NC (edited 11-12-2015).]

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Danyel
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Report this Post11-12-2015 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DanyelClick Here to visit Danyel's HomePageSend a Private Message to DanyelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have been there and I found that it will depend on the look you want ... you can find different size SS braided tubes on Ebay. I did not like the flexibility and look of them ... so I cut my door rubber pass throughs and taped in a plastic tube .... pic below.... length is something to factor in too...


m
GLWTB

Danyel

------------------

Black Widow Build Thread 2007 - 2014 Tylers Toy
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[This message has been edited by Danyel (edited 11-12-2015).]

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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-12-2015 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Danyel:

I have been there and I found that it will depend on the look you want ... you can find different size SS braided tubes on Ebay. I did not like the flexibility and look of them ... so I cut my door rubber pass throughs and taped in a plastic tube .... pic below.... length is something to factor in too...


m
GLWTB

That is what i had in mind.
Danyel


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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-16-2015 05:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not very attractive but its functional and sealed up good.



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Orig88GT-NC
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Report this Post11-16-2015 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by crashmydaytona:
Not very attractive but its functional and sealed up good.

Looks fine, more important to be reliable and sealed good.
TIP: The wheel well liner can be heated with a heat gun and press/formed around the lower strut mount. Helps when attaching the liner to the fender.

Bob

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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post11-16-2015 09:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
: The wheel well liner can be heated with a heat gun and press/formed around the lower strut mount. Helps when attaching the liner to the fender.

Bob
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the tip i was going to notch it out. Stretching will be much better. Thanks
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Report this Post11-17-2015 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was watching a TV show and they had the back of van open. There was a "long" wire harness tube from the van to the door. I would think a junkyard would have something similar. These looked long enough for what you were trying to do.
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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post01-13-2016 12:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I did not know the fender was going to need trimmed for the door to open. Did anyone else have to trim there fender? how much did you have to take off?
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Report this Post01-13-2016 12:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CajunSend a Private Message to CajunEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Several years ago I installed Vertical door hinges on my 86 GT. I purchased the hinge set from a forum member, forget the name. Anyway, in the set of installation instructions was mention about the need for some trimming.
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Orig88GT-NC
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Report this Post01-13-2016 05:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by crashmydaytona:
I did not know the fender was going to need trimmed for the door to open. Did anyone else have to trim there fender? how much did you have to take off?


Ya, a little bit of trimming is needed on the fender for the hinge to clear.
Pic of fender with the area cut out.
CLICK FOR FULL SIZE


Pic of fender in place with the door open
CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

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crashmydaytona
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Report this Post01-13-2016 06:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for crashmydaytonaSend a Private Message to crashmydaytonaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the pics. Did you have to cut the molding on the to. Mine is hitting. Going to need to cut 1/4 inch off mine.
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Report this Post01-13-2016 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by crashmydaytona:

Thanks for the pics. Did you have to cut the molding on the to. Mine is hitting. Going to need to cut 1/4 inch off mine.

No I didn't have any issues with the molding, I still have about 1/2" clearance to the edge of the fender, and well away from the molding trim..... interesting

Just thought of somthing..... The swing of the hinge arm is adjustable by an adjustment screw, the arm should just rub the NUB as the door is raised.. if too loose.... alot of play in the door when up... this would limit how far out the hinge arm swings toward the fender/molding.

[This message has been edited by Orig88GT-NC (edited 01-13-2016).]

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Report this Post01-13-2016 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for viperineSend a Private Message to viperineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My buddy just parted out a 2009 or so Chrysler minivan, and I was impressed at the wiring harness loom for the automatic sliding doors. It's hard to describe, but it's essentially a long series of small, hinged, plastic looms that connect and allow the wiring to unroll and roll back up uniformly without ever kinking. A clever idea to extend the life of a part that sees a lot of use. Sort of snake or caterpillar like. Might be worth looking into, should be plentiful in junkyards.
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AustinH
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Report this Post10-23-2017 07:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for AustinHSend a Private Message to AustinHEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey Fiero enthusiasts, I just struck a deal with Vertical Doors INC for 30% off MSRP of the BOLT ON Fiero Lambo Door Kit (VDCPONFER8488) if you use promo code "7979" at their website at checkout http://verticaldoors.com/in..._id=568#.We1rzu0rLDc or by calling 951.245.8669, ask for Nick, and use code "7979." Full description install video below.

I made a complete installation video for their kit on my 88GT 3800sc. Check it out here! Let me know what you think and if you have any questions. Also let me know if you decide to make one your own!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mHNbJM_v90
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Report this Post10-23-2017 08:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice video. Didn't make it all the way through, but just hope that you used some kind of thread locker on the bolts. I would hate to see them back out after all that work. Kudos to you.

------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread
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Report this Post10-23-2017 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetsnvettes2000Send a Private Message to jetsnvettes2000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just cut the boot then extended the wires and wrapped them with electric tape. i made it long enough to make a loop so it coils as it lowers. So far works like a charm.
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Report this Post10-23-2017 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetsnvettes2000Send a Private Message to jetsnvettes2000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

jetsnvettes2000

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quote
Originally posted by crashmydaytona:

Thanks for the pics. Did you have to cut the molding on the to. Mine is hitting. Going to need to cut 1/4 inch off mine.


Yes you cut the fender molding flush with the fender for clearance. Also trim the peg off the back to the little push lock or it will catch as it goes up at times
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