My drivers window squeaks/grinds a little bit when moving so I figured I'd replace the felt guide doohickeys. Before I tear into the door, can someone give me a quick primer and tell me what tools I'll need? I'd rather have my ducks in a row before I start.
I have the same problem, the dew wipes are shot. As I understand, the rubber blade that wipes moisture off the windows, and the 'felt doohickies' are all one assembly, based upon a metal strip with mounting holes. The whole assembly lives just inside the window channel at the top of the door. Access is tricky, I have yet to attempt it, but there are several YT videos that cover the procedure: YouTube listings, and a special tool by Rodney Dickman that reaches the near unreachable screws. The assemblies have been reproduced and sold by some PFF members, not sure what the current availability is. But, if the rubber part is in good shape, the felt can be replaced separately...
------------------ 1988 Pontiac Fiero Formula, Yellow, original. (CJB #118) 1977 Pontiac Le Mans Can-Am, original, unrestored.
they are a real pain. I bought a full set from the Fiero Store and still have them in the package. I could never get them installed. I wanted to do the whole deal all at once. Inner and outer dew wipes and the felt guides, but no luck. I was never able to get the window to tilt out far enough to get the job done without fear of breaking something, even with the inner and outer dew wipes removed. I might have loosened up some of the inner window regulator workings enough to get it done but I didn't want to risk messing up the window adjustment. I settled for just replacing the dew wipes. I got them from Seajai here on PFF and they work great. I have had no problems and have been very happy with the quality. Unfortunately, I think he has stopped producing these, at least for now. There may be other sources but I am not aware of them. I think even Rodney Dickman recommended Seajai's product.
Dew wipes are fine. The felt things might be fine as well but I don't want to risk scratching the no-longer-produced windows. I have the set of (4) that you linked to, Rsvl-Rider.
To replace the felt window guides, the whole door has to come apart, both outside skin and inside panel. Figure about 4 hours worth of work.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Those videos are excellent . The guy doing the dew wipe replacement really knows his stuff but this did not address the replacement of the felt guides. This requires taking the door apart entirely. A while back Anthony Cook posted his technique and he disconnects the window stops and forces the window up and over the dew wipes to get at the screws. For doing it the way shown in the video, Rodney Dickman sells a special tool that assists in screw removal and tightening. I believe that its being used there.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I have been able to remove the felt window guides with the glass in place but the outer dew wipe needs to be removed. And there is still some prying and finagling to get them out, not that easy to do. Otherwise you will need to remove the window glass from the door. I recently harvested a pair of side windows from an 87, you can get at the rivet heads to drill them out by removing the interior door panel. There are 4 rivets to remove to get the glass out, 2 attach the glass to the regulator and 2 attach a plastic stop to the glass. I was able to access the 2 rivets toward the rear of the door with the glass about half-way down and the front 2 rivets with the glass 3/4 of the way down (or the other way around, maybe). I did it at the pick-n-pull and it took ne about 10 minutes to remove the inner door panel and get the glass out, no need to remove the outer door skin. The window guides are easy-shmezy at that point.
I have been able to remove the felt window guides with the glass in place but the outer dew wipe needs to be removed. And there is still some prying and finagling to get them out, not that easy to do. Otherwise you will need to remove the window glass from the door. I recently harvested a pair of side windows from an 87, you can get at the rivet heads to drill them out by removing the interior door panel. There are 4 rivets to remove to get the glass out, 2 attach the glass to the regulator and 2 attach a plastic stop to the glass. I was able to access the 2 rivets toward the rear of the door with the glass about half-way down and the front 2 rivets with the glass 3/4 of the way down (or the other way around, maybe). I did it at the pick-n-pull and it took me about 10 minutes to remove the inner door panel and get the glass out, no need to remove the outer door skin. The window guides are easy-shmezy at that point.
Good info but what do you do to replace the rivets on the rollers so the windows can be put back in place?
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I haven't installed the windows yet but they're just 1/4" aluminum rivets so I would think new rivets to replace the ones drilled out would be all that is needed to reattach the pieces. I will do a write-up when I do the R&R of the windows. I'll make it a window and felt guide how-to.
I haven't installed the windows yet but they're just 1/4" aluminum rivets so I would think new rivets to replace the ones drilled out would be all that is needed to reattach the pieces. I will do a write-up when I do the R&R of the windows. I'll make it a window and felt guide how-to.
I am next in line for a window replacement. It looks like we just need to measure up the length of the rivets and use a pop rivet gun or if there is room use a screw bolt and a nyloc nut. I'll have to take a good look to see which approach will work.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
The rivets for the windows are 1/4" by 15/16" from my 88 Fiero manual. I am rebuilding my driver side door.
Joe Sokol
Thanks for looking that up for us. As far as I can tell that is a very hard pop rivet size to find. A rivet size of 1/4' x 1"L might be easier to find but when you expand a pop rivet it might bind the roller???? Might present an interesting challenge.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-06-2015).]
The large white round pieces on either side of the glass are just upper limit stops that contact the stop brackets, they do not rotate. I would say 1" rivets will work just fine.
The large white round pieces on either side of the glass are just upper limit stops that contact the stop brackets, they do not rotate. I would say 1" rivets will work just fine.
Even if they don't, it shouldn't be to difficult to pop the barrel of the rivet core and grind 1/16" off the barrel length before putting it back on the core /shrug. I've done that a few times with a longer rivet when it was to long but my next shortest I had was to short.
