Morning guys,

Getting ready to fool with my brakes. I seem to recall a posting where it was possible to replace those nassssssty spring roll slider pins with stainless clevis pins. Some folks roll <tee hee> their own out of stainless 1/4 bolts, but I would rather buy some....but what size? Any body know the effective shank length needed on '88 brakes?

They are cheap enough here: https://www.huyett.com/Prod...ins/Clevis-Pins.aspx that is makes no sense for me to make them up. So, how long a shank do I need to order???

TIA,
Larry

I can't remember the size, but I bought bolts and friction locking nuts when I replaced the pins.

bump for the evening crowd

Hey Larry,
My pass side rear caliper has stuck caliper sliders. I guess that will be another thing to remedy this summer.
Can't the sliders just be cleaned and greased and reinstalled ?
PS did you get my email about this and next Sunday?

Also any weekday except wed and thurs (wife works those days) I can meet up.

Louis

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===Always trying to find time to work on cars===
Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"My mind spins like helicopter blades." -G. Rossdale
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"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT
3800sc series 2 swap in progress--IT'S ALIVE !!!!!
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"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12
VIN #5835
Stock PRV engine
Peugot 604 Intake manifold
Exhaust headers
Anti-3rd brake light

[This message has been edited by Lou and Blue (edited 07-10-2015).]

Lou,

There are quite a few discussions about using clevis pins instead of roll pins for the slider. At one point it was very difficult to get replacement roll pins and a substitute was needed and someone came up with using stainless bolts cut to length with locknuts....and then someone thought of clevis pins. Since a difficult to find and expensive for the purpose slide hammer is used to reliably remove the roll pins without damage, a clevis pin sure looks like the optimum solution. And if I am going to be going into my '88 brakes again, I want to make the conversion. Biggest problem is that it is at least two projects into the future and those have my interior pulled apart right now: installing a 1-din digital audio receiver and 8" console subwoofer; repairing and de-warping my shift surround (the skeleton was in SEVEN pieces!) and installing one touch up/one touch down power window using lighted aftermarket switches and a '98 Caddy mirror control joystick....

I am making progress as bits and pieces of cable and hardware arrive on the doorstep, but it is slow going. If 'the one who must be obeyed' lets off the 'honey-do list' I will try to throw the console back together and make a drive out that way on Sunday.

Larry

Larry,

I kinda did both a combination of the clevis and the locking nut... I used stainless bolts and nyloc style nuts, but I also cross drilled the bolts and used a retainer clip in addition to the locking nut. Belt and suspenders. Unfortunately, I don't remember the length of bolt I used, so I can't help you there.

So why am I bringing it up at all? Because I wanted to warn you that the holes in the two portions of the caliper assembly are slightly different sizes and because of this, the original roll pins are only really retained in one of the two holes that the pin passes through. Been a long since I've been in there, but I believe it was the holes in the caliper body that are slightly smaller than the ones in the bridge.

Because of that, you may find that you need to enlarge the holes in the caliper body a little in order for your clevis pin to pass through without interference. In other words, you may find that the clevis pin may fit comfortably through the holes in the bridge but won't easily pass through the holes in the body. That's because of the way it was originally designed.

Sorry I couldn't help with the bolt or pin length, but hopefully have helped a little in other ways.

quote Originally posted by FTF Engineering: So why am I bringing it up at all? Because I wanted to warn you that the holes in the two portions of the caliper assembly are slightly different sizes and because of this, the original roll pins are only really retained in one of the two holes that the pin passes through. Been a long since I've been in there, but I believe it was the holes in the caliper body that are slightly smaller than the ones in the bridge.

I'm glad you brought this up, as I'm sitting here reading this thread and scratching my head wondering what all the fuss with roll pins is about.

I just had the four calipers off my '88 Formula as I wanted to lube the caliper sliders. I've never done anything to '88 brakes previously as from '94 to last year, all my Fieros were '84-'87. Anyway, I discovered that once the bolts holding the caliper bridge to the body are removed, the bridge can be easily pried away from the caliper body and the roll pins stay stuck in the body for the reasons given above. Everything comes apart with the roll pins retained in the caliper body. Installation of everything is just as simple.

Just to be clear... the roll pins don't need to be messed with. Leave them in the caliper body.

It also needs to be stressed here so that it sinks in... this thread is all about '88 Fiero brakes. You guys with the earlier years are wasting your time reading this thread. Go away!

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-11-2015).]