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3800sc fiero coolant problem by Scott2scott
Started on: 06-25-2015 09:32 PM
Replies: 2 (258 views)
Last post by: Scott2scott on 06-26-2015 07:04 PM
Scott2scott
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From: Punta gorda,Fl
Registered: Jun 2014


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Report this Post06-25-2015 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Scott2scottClick Here to Email Scott2scottSend a Private Message to Scott2scottEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok after weeks for being busy due to family sickness. I had some time today and worked on car for abit. Welded muffler on but nothing after thst. Car starts right up and runs idles great. But this my question. Here it is. Car temp gets upto 220 and stays there at idle. I put new t stat in it. No coolant leaks and topped off coolant. I let it run with rad cap lose. Get air out. While thinking i got all out. I started to feel around on pipes and hoses to check for heat/flow and noticed the drivers hose and coolant pipe where hot like they should be... But the rad and passenger side coolant pipe and hose upto waterpump where not warm or hot like the otherside at all. Checked belt on waterpump making sure it was right and its going counter clockwise like it should be. My best guess maybe is more air still in system? My car is 84 fiero with 03 gtp engine alt in stock loctation. So nothing is modded.
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Darth Fiero
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Report this Post06-26-2015 04:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Darth FieroClick Here to visit Darth Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Darth FieroSend a Private Message to Darth FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It is very possible you could have an air pocket trapped in the engine and that could be preventing the coolant from circulating.

To aid in burping the cooling system on a 3800 swapped Fiero, I first drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat so air can more easily bleed past the thermostat. You don't want to drill any bigger of a hole than this because it can impact the operation of the thermostat if you do.

You said you were using a factory location mounted alternator, so I have to assume you are still using the factory 3800 alternator bracket that has both heater lines running thru it. If so, here is how you can try to fill the system.

1) With a completely cold engine and with it off, remove the upper most heater hose from the alternator bracket.

2) Open the air bleed valve on the t-stat housing (if using the stock 3800 t-stat housing).

3) Remove the radiator cap and place a drip pan under that side of the radiator.

4) Install a funnel into the alternator bracket's heater hose fitting and slowly begin to fill with the proper anti-freeze and water mix.

5) As soon as antifreeze starts to overflow at the radiator, reinstall the radiator fill cap.

6) Top off the radiator overflow tank to the ADD mark at this point.

7) Continue filling coolant into the alt bracket until it either won't take any more or coolant starts coming out of the bleed screw on the t-stat housing. Close the t-stat housing bleed screw.

8) Top off the coolant level at the alt bracket fitting and then reinstall the heater hose.

9) Start and run the engine until it builds some heat and the t-stat housing starts to get warm. Once it gets warm, crack open the bleeder screw to see if any air or liquid comes out. Leave the screw open if only air comes out, but close it if liquid comes out.

10) Continue to let the engine warm up while periodically checking the bleed screw as instructed in step 9. Do not let engine coolant temperature exceed 230 deg F as indicated in a data scan. DO NOT rely on the Fiero temp gauge for an accurate temp reading. If the engine temp reaches 230 deg F, the radiator fan should be running before it gets to this point and pulling hot air out of the radiator. If it is not pulling hot air out of the radiator and the coolant temp continues to rise, then the coolant is NOT circulating thru the engine properly - shut off the engine to prevent overheating if you get to this point.

If you have your radiator fan wired up under PCM control and the PCM tune is set up properly, the radiator fan should turn on and off periodically as the engine sits there and idles at normal operating temp - and this should maintain a fairly steady engine coolant temp.

After you have verified proper engine operation (and it is not overheating), top off the coolant in the radiator overflow to the "FULL" mark. Check this level with a hot engine over the next 2 days of normal driving to make sure it stays topped off. After you check the level these 2 subsequent times, it should not begin to fall (disappear) from the overflow. Fluid level should remain constant based on engine temp (overflow tank level will vary depending on engine coolant temp, but it should never go empty and it should never go over the FULL mark with a fully warmed up engine).

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[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 06-26-2015).]

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Scott2scott
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Report this Post06-26-2015 07:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Scott2scottClick Here to Email Scott2scottSend a Private Message to Scott2scottEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks ryan i like this way of bleeding alot makes sence. Yea im using my atron live data scanner to get real live data. Yea the fan kicks on around 195 or so. Car didnt go over 200 today. Plus today i took my shifter out cut it up and rewelded it to make a short shifter. Looks so much better than the stock long one. Now i need to find a cool shift knob. Lol
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