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paint by kendallville
Started on: 06-20-2015 11:50 PM
Replies: 19 (560 views)
Last post by: rogergarrison on 06-24-2015 09:07 PM
kendallville
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Report this Post06-20-2015 11:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Lets talk paint , trying to get up the nerve to repaint my front and back fascia . So I need to hear from the painters.
Should I take them off the car or leave them on?
How hard is it to sand the curves around the turn signals , and so forth?
How fine of a sand paper should I sand down to ?
and finally prime or not?
as always thanks for the help
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post06-21-2015 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No expert but (I am painting mine now)...

I removed my panels. Figured it'd be easier to paint that way. everything but the roof and rear clip.
Finest I've used it 1200 grit probably not enough in retrospect. May have to resort to color sand and buff.
I've used Eastwood's primer/filler and 2kj single stage paint. Primer def worth it, rough as a dog's arse to start with but wet sand and it's fine.
I am using a spray-it lvlp gun, works fine. Not as fast as a hvlp gun it it works well with my compressor which would not work with a hvlp gun.
Result is not perfect but not bad considering it's the first time I've painted a car. Certainly better than it was anyway!

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Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

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Slammed
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Report this Post06-21-2015 01:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SlammedClick Here to Email SlammedSend a Private Message to SlammedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Your paint will not stick to a 1200grit prepped surface. 600 and no finer or you'll have adhesion issues

Don't spray metallics off panel
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Adjustso3
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Report this Post06-21-2015 02:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Adjustso3Click Here to Email Adjustso3Send a Private Message to Adjustso3Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Don't spray metalics off panel ? Did you mean not to panel paint if you are using metalic paint ?
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post06-21-2015 04:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Briefly, remove the bumpers from the car, & place them on a sawhorse high enough to be able to paint from behind (to get to the corners in the recesses).
Sand with 180 dry or 320 wet. A DA sander with 180 is the quickest way. Any cracked paint needs to be completely removed.
Prime with PPG DP epoxy primer, using 401 catalyst. Read the instructions - there's an induction period. The PPG epoxy with 401 is the most flexible primer you can use.
If everything is smooth, you can paint within 30 minutes without sanding. If not, let the primer dry for a couple days & wet sand it with 400.
Shoot base/clear according the instructions for the paint you choose. For budget jobs, I like Dupont Nason paint. For hi-end jobs, PPG concept or Sikkens.
After drying overnight, wet sand with 1000 wet to smooth out the orange peel then 1500 or 2000. Buff using a sponge pad & 3M Perfect-it compound. Finish with polish on another sponge pad.
There are lots of threads with more detail if you do a search.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post06-21-2015 08:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Myself, I prefer painting parts on the car. Your not going to damage the paint reinstalling it. I dont paint a disassembled car thats a metallic or pearl color, and rarely any other color, because you can cause a mismatch. If I have a part off I will trim it (paint the back edges I cant reach when assembled), put it on, then mask and paint it on the car. I agree to final sand with nothing finer than #400, usually I use #320. I sand parts like a bumper with a DA sander, and into the recesses by hand. DONT use stripper. Whatever primer you use, ONLY use enough to cover the part...thick primer coats on flexible parts can make it easier for paint to crack. Myself, I always at least scuff sand dried primer before painting. I have painted parts before a primer coat completely dries before though. On flexible parts like bumpers, I never put more than 2 color coats and 2 clear coats on because again, thicker cracks easier. 10 coats of clear will not be shinier than 2...you only see the top coat. IF im going to color sand and buff, I will put a 3rd coat of clear on because im going to sand the top 1 off to erase any flaws.
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ILVMYGT
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Report this Post06-21-2015 10:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ILVMYGTClick Here to Email ILVMYGTSend a Private Message to ILVMYGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Tha Driver mentioned that "Any cracked paint needs to be completely removed." Those hairline cracks are actually cracks in the underlining plastic. If you just sand the paint off and paint the cracks will reappear. Here is an example of cracked paint and what need to be done to remove the crack. Once the crack is removed it needs to be filled with the appropriate filler.



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"Real integrity is doing the right thing, knowing that nobody's going to know whether you did it or not."

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imacflier
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Report this Post06-21-2015 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierClick Here to Email imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, this topic is so broad, mebbe I will not get yelled at for trying steal the thread!

If someone is doing prep prior to taking to a pro for final prep and paint....trying to save a few bucks....is there ANY spraycan primer one can use that will not cause trouble later? Or is a compressor and spraygun a MUST for initial prep?

TIA,
Larry
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post06-21-2015 02:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ILVMYGT:

Tha Driver mentioned that "Any cracked paint needs to be completely removed." Those hairline cracks are actually cracks in the underlining plastic. If you just sand the paint off and paint the cracks will reappear. Here is an example of cracked paint and what need to be done to remove the crack. Once the crack is removed it needs to be filled with the appropriate filler.






Yes, if there is damage to the part it must be repaired before priming. On flexible parts like the bumpers, sometimes it's only the paint that's cracked. Only sanding off all the paint will determine if the part is damaged.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

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kendallville
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Report this Post06-21-2015 08:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks guys, now I just need a shot of courage to start the job. I guess if I mess up to bad I can have someone
repaint it. Will need to buy supplies sand paper and the primer, I have paint left from the wing.
problems to solve

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Gall757
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Report this Post06-22-2015 08:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by imacflier:

Well, this topic is so broad, mebbe I will not get yelled at for trying steal the thread!

If someone is doing prep prior to taking to a pro for final prep and paint....trying to save a few bucks....is there ANY spraycan primer one can use that will not cause trouble later?

TIA,
Larry


no
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kendallville
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Report this Post06-22-2015 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok I think I'll leave the parts on when I get up the nerve to start. It might be safer than removing and
breaking something on removal or reinstalling. Should I leave this on or take it off , and if so
how do I get it off the car? ( don't want to break it either )

[This message has been edited by kendallville (edited 06-22-2015).]

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post06-22-2015 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by imacflier:

Well, this topic is so broad, mebbe I will not get yelled at for trying steal the thread!

If someone is doing prep prior to taking to a pro for final prep and paint....trying to save a few bucks....is there ANY spraycan primer one can use that will not cause trouble later? Or is a compressor and spraygun a MUST for initial prep?

TIA,
Larry


As a painter for 50 years, I TOTALLY AGREE the answer is NO. You can buy real primer and thinner, and buy a self mixing spray can. You can also always rent a small compressor and gun for the day to primer a few assorted parts. In a real pinch, you can also brush on primer if you mix it thicker. It will take more sanding to get it all smooth and flat though, but very possible. There was a time when all cars were painted by brush, wet sanded and buffed...from the factory.

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imacflier
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Report this Post06-22-2015 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierClick Here to Email imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Roger,

Thank you. Now, a follow up: could you recommend specific brands if I were to use a self-mixing can?

Really, thank you for the directness and clarity.

Larry
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post06-23-2015 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Any automotive paint stores will have them. Most sell one called Preval. Its a bottle with an attached can of spray propellant. You will have to mix it pretty thin to work in it though. I like spraying my primer thick so it fills slight imperfections. IF you MUST use a spray can, be sure it SAYs IT IS LACQUER. Others will react to the paint by cracking or wrinkling up. I have heard of hardened primer that comes in a spray can, that mixes when your ready...BUT you HAVE to use it all up right away...it hardens in 15 mins or so...even in the can.

http://store.preval.com/products/preval-pro-pak

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 06-23-2015).]

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2.5
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Report this Post06-23-2015 02:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by kendallville:
problems to solve



Looks like chips from bugs and rocks, or is that tar?.. and a white spray can touch up spot. I think both just require sanded off?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 06-23-2015).]

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ltlfrari
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Report this Post06-23-2015 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
2k primer in a can:

http://www.repaintsupply.co...socyanate-p3682.html

I've used this. Works ok and fine for a small job if you don't have a gun but you still really need a gun for the color anyway.
Since I had a small compressor (not enough capacity for a HVLP gun) I got a sprayit LVLP gun. Works fine for my needs at least.

------------------
Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

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kendallville
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Report this Post06-23-2015 09:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kendallvilleSend a Private Message to kendallvilleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


Looks like chips from bugs and rocks, or is that tar?.. and a white spray can touch up spot. I think both just require sanded off?


Its chips been there since I bought the car , the back is where the PO tried to move the car when I was going to buy it and it
had a dead battery so they tried to push it with another car. the only real bad points on the paint .
I still have a lot of this left from the last time when I added the wing.

but need to know if I should remove Pegasus and how?
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post06-24-2015 08:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageClick Here to Email ltlfrariSend a Private Message to ltlfrariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The Pegasus emblem is held on with a nut behind the fascia. You may be able to reach it from underneath. If not, I believe you can unbolt the front fender where it sits on the frame (just in front of the hood) and lift it up enough to get at it.
I know that on my bumperpad the only way to really get at it was to remove the front fender itself. If you are going to do a half decent paint job, seems to me silly to just mask it and paint around it. I know I decided that doing that would annoy the heck out of me so I pulled the panel. Pain in the butt to do for such a small part but worth it in the end.

------------------
Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post06-24-2015 09:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by kendallville:

Its chips been there since I bought the car , the back is where the PO tried to move the car when I was going to buy it and it
had a dead battery so they tried to push it with another car. the only real bad points on the paint .
I still have a lot of this left from the last time when I added the wing.

but need to know if I should remove Pegasus and how?


Those are the same products I use on the majority of my work, Dimension 4 base, Finish 1 clear, and their reducers and hardeners. Never any problems. I also use Evercoat etching Primer/surfacer.

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