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4.9 Fiero Oil Leak from Timing Cover by Fiero Tom
Started on: 06-05-2015 12:00 PM
Replies: 4 (127 views)
Last post by: olejoedad on 06-07-2015 04:29 PM
Fiero Tom
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Report this Post06-05-2015 12:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero TomClick Here to Email Fiero TomSend a Private Message to Fiero TomEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The question, does the engine have to pulled to change the timing cover gasket ???
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Neils88
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Report this Post06-05-2015 12:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No, I believe it can be done in place, but it would probably be much easier and less frustrating if you did pull it. Of course, I haven't had to do it myself yet.
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Raydar
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Report this Post06-05-2015 04:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It can be done in the car. The hardest part is pulling the crank pulley. (Well... other than finding room to get wrenches between the frame rail and the end of the engine.
Make sure your crank seal is good. That's where mine was leaking.

And don't overtighten the water pump nuts. The studs will pull out of the timing cover. Don't ask me how I know this.

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Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550

Praise the Lowered!

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post06-07-2015 02:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
We've changed the front oil seal on 4.9L with the powertrain dropped down and out. Its easy to have success if you work carefully and deliberately. Its a pretty big job as the front cover also supports the water pump and the hose feed housing below for the coolant. Autozone has a harmonic balancer puller loaner with the correct threaded insert. The front cover gasket set will have the oil seal, cover, water pump and water feed housing gaskets. Make note of all of the 20 or so bolts and nut locations that hold the cover, feed housing and water pump in place. Follow the torque settings very carefully. SOme of the bolts and nuts are small 10MM and it doesn't take much to strip them. Remember to drain the coolant before starting or you will end up with it in the oil pan.
While you may be able to do the job with the engine in place, I would not attempt do it that way. There is just so little room to work in that area.

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[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-07-2015).]

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olejoedad
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Report this Post06-07-2015 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The hard part of doing it in the car is cleaning the block face prior to reassembly.
The nuts and bolts part of it is pretty straightforward, tight confines. It is easier in a notchie than the fastback.
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