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New rear brake calipers = NO emergency brake??? by chrishahn87
Started on: 05-31-2015 05:55 PM
Replies: 9 (498 views)
Last post by: Dennis LaGrua on 06-01-2015 08:21 AM
chrishahn87
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Report this Post05-31-2015 05:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chrishahn87Send a Private Message to chrishahn87Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
***Working on '87 Fiero, stock type brake calipers, Thermoquiet pads, and Earl's SS braided brake lines****

After attempting to remove my Fiero from storage (inside my garage) after about roughly 5 years, I took it for a short drive. When I got back home, I felt the brake calipers to see if they had some extra heat from the possibility of them "hanging up" and "dragging" just a little.
All calipers except the passenger side front were hot.

I thought my best idea would be to replace the brake calipers (better to be safe than sorry).

I went to Advance Auto and ordered the calipers I needed, when I put them all on and bled the brakes, I now have a spongy pedal and no emergency brake.
*I had this exact same issue when I did a complete brake overhaul (all new parts) on my wife's Fiero (but never found a way to correct the issues).

WHAT CAN I DO TO CORRECT THIS?

I will start on the spongy pedal by bleeding the brake lines again, over and over (already went through a quart of brake fluid....).
BUT, What or Where do I start on the e-brake situation? I pull the lever and nothing.
(I should mention that before I removed / replaced these rear calipers the e-brake was working PERFECT! - so, I do not see any need for any adjustment or necessary replacement of any cables).

I have a feeling that when these calipers were rebuilt, they were not rebuilt correctly in some way??? Is there a way to "reset" or "properly set" the caliper's piston? Or is there a way I should be able to move the e-brake lever that would help?

Other than this same issue with my wife's Fiero, I have done many brake caliper replacements on a few Fieros over the years (7 different Fieros btw) and never seen this issue or had this problem. Why are these calipers NOT working right off the shelf? What did I do wrong, or what did I not do?

-Chris
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Gall757
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Report this Post05-31-2015 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by chrishahn87:

All calipers except the passenger side front were hot.

I thought my best idea would be to replace the brake calipers (better to be safe than sorry).



I think you went wrong right there. Brake calipers hanging up may have nothing to do with the calipers, and more to do with the brake line. The soft lines swell and trap pressure at the caliper.
Your original calipers may be fine, and your new replacements may be defective. The Ogre warns us that many rebuilt brake calipers do not function properly. See the cave.
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chrishahn87
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Report this Post05-31-2015 06:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chrishahn87Send a Private Message to chrishahn87Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The driver's front caliper, when I removed it I tried to compress the piston and it was very tight. Gave me the impression that it may have seized while sitting for such a long time (which is why I decided to replace that caliper.

The rear calipers, when I felt that they were hot (I despise these damn rear calipers on Fieros) so I just thought it would be better to replace (guess I was wrong)

My brake lines do have a few years of age on them now, probably 12 years? I purchased these (Earl's stainless steel braided lines) from the Fiero store before they started carrying their own brand. Have been on since.

Is there a way to check to see if these lines are bad, instead of just going and "throwing more parts" at the car and hoping something is right?

Or, is there a way to check my old calipers now that they're off the car to find out if they actually ARE bad?

Since they worked before (atleast the e-brake worked) I wouldn't mind keeping them and returning the new (rebuilt) calipers....

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Custom2M4
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Report this Post05-31-2015 06:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Custom2M4Click Here to Email Custom2M4Send a Private Message to Custom2M4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Manually grab the e brake handle(on the calipers ) with a bar and pry it over, does it bite the rotor?

[This message has been edited by Custom2M4 (edited 05-31-2015).]

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chrishahn87
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Report this Post05-31-2015 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chrishahn87Send a Private Message to chrishahn87Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Custom2M4:

Manually grab the e brake handle(on the calipers ) with a bar and pry it over, does it bite the rotor?



On the new calipers, when I cycle the e-brake handle the levers (that the cables are connected to) cycle just as they should. BUT, the driver's side does not move the piston or brake pad anywhere near the brake rotor. The passenger side moves also and will touch the brake rotor applying a very small amount of pressure (with wheel on and car jacked up I can rotate the wheel by hand without much effort)
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olejoedad
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Report this Post05-31-2015 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It sounds like the rear calipers are improperly adjusted.
Remove the cable from the actuation arm and manually cycle the arm. You may need to reindex the arm on the hex that it fits over.
If the actuation of the arm does not move the inner pad closer to the rotor, the caliper may be defective. I have seen a few that cycled the wrong way right out of the box...
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dobey
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Report this Post05-31-2015 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:
I think you went wrong right there. Brake calipers hanging up may have nothing to do with the calipers, and more to do with the brake line. The soft lines swell and trap pressure at the caliper.
Your original calipers may be fine, and your new replacements may be defective. The Ogre warns us that many rebuilt brake calipers do not function properly. See the cave.


Or the old calipers were hanging and the parking brake only seemed to be working because the calipers were sticking, with the parking brake cables stretched and in need of adjustment? Assuming the pistons are aligned to the correct position in the calipers, if one side moves a different amount than the other, when the parking brake is pulled, that would seem to indicate the cables are in need of adjustment, no?
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chrishahn87
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Report this Post05-31-2015 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chrishahn87Send a Private Message to chrishahn87Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think the caliper pistons are not correctly positioned. I will try to set the piston by cycling the ebrake arm.
The ebrake was and had always worked correctly until i replaced the calipers. I will also try stuff i read in the cave, hopefully something helps!
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Report this Post05-31-2015 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for commerceSend a Private Message to commerceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
for bleeding your brakes, check out speed bleeders. I found mine at autozone. great time saver.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post06-01-2015 08:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by chrishahn87:

I think the caliper pistons are not correctly positioned. I will try to set the piston by cycling the ebrake arm.
The ebrake was and had always worked correctly until i replaced the calipers. I will also try stuff i read in the cave, hopefully something helps!


For the rear brake calipers to work the screw mechanism to the piston must be working and set properly. When the calipers are installed were the two index slots on the piston face aligned with the pins on the brake pads? That's why you have the circular spring that holds the pad to the piston in the right position. The screw does the adjusting but should the piston body itself turn then the adjustment is lost. Make sure of this alignment then pump the brake to lock the position. Then attach the brake cable and adjust it so that the slightest pull on the eBrake lever creates movement at the caliper lever. That should fix the problem but we have seen a high number of defective rebuilds on these Fiero rear calipers so that could be the problem as well. Stick with it and you will get it solved.
Hope that you make Carlisle this year as many of the 90's crowd is coming this year. Paula is coming with me and we hope to say hello to Jen and yourself again.


------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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