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Solenoid or Throttle Body, something else maybe? by no2pencil
Started on: 05-22-2015 01:27 PM
Replies: 7 (124 views)
Last post by: no2pencil on 05-23-2015 07:35 AM
no2pencil
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Report this Post05-22-2015 01:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I recently replaced my throttle body (as mine was black) from one that I polished over the winter. Not long after that I replaced the solenoid (after performing this repair) as I was pulling a code 32. Now I'm pulling a code 35 at 60 to 70 mph, & I actually have a very high throttle after hitting that speed. Driving is fine from cold up until high way speeds, then idle runs as high as 2500.

I'm suspecting the solenoid, as that was added after the fact, but just shortly after. Going to replace with my original & see if the situation remains.

Thoughts?
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Report this Post05-22-2015 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I guess I would check for a vacuum leak... and if you rebuild the solenoid, I would check there first.

Is your idle high when vehicle isn't moving and foot isn't on gas?

You may have cracked a vac. line, or the EGR tube is bad. But the code is from the solenoid, so start there.
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no2pencil
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Report this Post05-22-2015 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:
Is your idle high when vehicle isn't moving and foot isn't on gas?
After hitting 60/70mph yes. But I can get it back down by putting it in 1st & slowly letting off the clutch. Eventually it calms back down. From cold start to whenever, five minutes, 20 minutes, it'll be fine. It just seems to do it once I hit highway speeds.

 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:
You may have cracked a vac. line, or the EGR tube is bad. But the code is from the solenoid, so start there.

Makes sense. It was fine (other than the code 32) prior, so it would have be incredibly coincidental to be the EGR tube. The cracked vac lines however, yeah, it could be a creeper problem somewhere in there...

Thank you for your input!
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no2pencil
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Report this Post05-22-2015 05:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Interestingly, the code it pulled before doing anything is a 13. I have a few tps units, so I compared the one installed to a spare, & the spare was bent where this one was at a straight angle. Replaced with the net one & now it runs fine. But still pulling a code 13. Though it didn't do it at speed, it was some time driving at 70 before the check engine light came on.
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cmechmann
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Report this Post05-22-2015 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cmechmannClick Here to Email cmechmannSend a Private Message to cmechmannEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Code 13 hmmm.
The ECM uses the black grounds to adjust the 5 volt reference signal. But uses a different ground for O2. Most of the time it is tan.
90% of the time that I had seen a code 13 was due to the tan O2 ground broken or not connected. And a lot of the time was right after someone installed an engine or transmission.
You get code 13 when the ECM sees a weird O2 reading. If you disconnect the O2 the ECM will read around .5 volt. The O2 sensor will increase or decrease that .5 depending on the amount of O2. If the O2 wire is grounded out it sees 0 volts. If the O2 ground is open the regulator in the ECM has no ground reference and the voltage wonders.
You were at the May 2nd cruise? Which car were you? Were you the silver/gray Notchie I followed for a while. Were you also the one I saw on 41st street coming home from work about 2 weeks ago? I had the white/yellow fast back with my wife taking pics out of the sunroof.
If you are not that far from there I have a Mac ALDL scanner you can use. If it is in my trunk, you could use it this week end. If it is at work, you'll have to wait till Tuesday.
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no2pencil
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Report this Post05-22-2015 10:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yup, that's me. I gave you a piece sign right after the cruise as I was walking from parking the car in Hamden.

This weekend I'm going up to New York & the Lititz PA gathering. Tuesday sounds good.

Thank you for the stellar advice. I'd love to clear the last code
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cmechmann
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Report this Post05-22-2015 11:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cmechmannClick Here to Email cmechmannSend a Private Message to cmechmannEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was about 3 blocks from where I work. At the bridge, turn right at the bottom of the drive way. I live in Remmington. Don't know what the wife has planned. But I was intending on doing some more stripping out of the 85 GT this week end. Somebody ran the stop sign at 38th street, while I was going north on Falls. From the outside it don't look bad. If you look under the hood you can see the carnage. Already have the cradle on the ground with the 3800SC and trans. Just have to lift the car off it. I was going to pull the front calipers off. There may be some parts you might want. The column is good(went through it last year) but it is for auto. Yours is manual? Tank and interior sucks. Not many decent body panels.
If I remember right you were still dealing with exhaust issues. Also you had a 3.4? Don't know if you feel like pulling the manifolds, but I have a nice set of gaskets. They are metal clad with the spark plug shields built in so you can do away with the tubes. They were for a U van. The ports and bolt pattern are the same. I've used them before on steel head 2.8, 3.1 and 3.4 and rarely had any leaks later. Free if you want them. Also have 2 deck lids. One sanded but has luggage rack holes but have most of the rack. The other one needs sanding and filled. Decent shape upper rear section and right door skin for a Notchie. All I'd want for them is what it cost me in fuel to get them.
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no2pencil
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Report this Post05-23-2015 07:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Certainly some parts that I could use. Would be available early today or after Monday afternoon/early evening.

Look for a pm with some contact information.
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