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Clutch engaging with pedal near the floor by craigtbone
Started on: 05-14-2015 04:29 PM
Replies: 10 (470 views)
Last post by: mcguiver3 on 05-15-2015 07:20 AM
craigtbone
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Report this Post05-14-2015 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The engagement point seems to have slowly moved lower so now the clutch is not quite fully disengaged when the pedal is pushed to the floor.

The master cylinder is only a few years old. My shop bled the line but that did not fix it.

Is there some other adjustment that can be made?
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Lou and Blue
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Report this Post05-14-2015 04:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou and BlueClick Here to Email Lou and BlueSend a Private Message to Lou and BlueEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've heard that the stock clutch pedal arm bends after awhile.

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===Always trying to find time to work on cars===
Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"My mind spins like helicopter blades." -G. Rossdale
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT
3800sc series 2 swap in progress
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12
VIN #5835
Stock PRV engine
Peugot 604 Intake manifold
Exhaust headers
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2.5
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Report this Post05-14-2015 05:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The slave cylinder in back by the engine may be leaking in air and not traveling far enough.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-2-069810.html

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 05-14-2015).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post05-14-2015 05:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do you have a Fiero shop? Expert brake bleeders have been foiled by the Fiero clutch.....there still may be air in the line. If you can change the disengagement position by pumping the clutch pedal rapidly, there is air in there.
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craigtbone
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Report this Post05-14-2015 06:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I will quiz my shop about his bleeding skills.

Is there any aftermarket clutch pedals that are stronger?

I see the FeiroStore has one. Anyone have any experience with that one?
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Lou and Blue
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Report this Post05-14-2015 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou and BlueClick Here to Email Lou and BlueSend a Private Message to Lou and BlueEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I had to replace my slave cylinder and bled it with my neighbor working the pedal. No problems bleeding. I guess I got lucky.

------------------
===Always trying to find time to work on cars===
Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"My mind spins like helicopter blades." -G. Rossdale
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT
3800sc series 2 swap in progress
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12
VIN #5835
Stock PRV engine
Peugot 604 Intake manifold
Exhaust headers
Anti-3rd brake light

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fierofool
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Report this Post05-14-2015 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Whatever method you choose to bleed the system, raise the drivers side of the vehicle by 5 or 6 inches. By doing this you can eliminate the need to depress the pushrod of the slave, a task that can be difficult sometimes. As you bleed, bump the side of the slave with something heavy. This will dislodge any air bubbles stuck down toward the piston and pushrod and allow them to move upward toward the bleeder valve. This can be done with the bleeder closed, then open and bleed, close and rap on the slave, open and bleed.
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Neils88
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Report this Post05-14-2015 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The thing that confuses people is that the slave cylinder leaks air in instead of hydraulic fluid leaking out. Most mechanics will tell you they are bleeding it correctly because they are using the normal procedure...but that doesn't seem to work completely on the Fiero. The final step is to compress the slave cylinder with the bleed screw open. As also mentioned, jacking the drivers side can help...though I've always compressed the slave cylinder to confirm that the air is out anyway. Make sure you have a Rodney Dickman slave cylinder. It uses a superior double seal.
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jscott1
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Report this Post05-15-2015 01:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Rodney Dickman's adjustable banjo can help in these situations.
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craigtbone
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Report this Post05-15-2015 07:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you all for the input.

I will look into the bleeding techniques that my shop used.

The adjustable banjo might be useful as well

Further input always encouraged.
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mcguiver3
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Report this Post05-15-2015 07:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mcguiver3Send a Private Message to mcguiver3Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just did a slave cylinder change on my 86 GT.
Normally I would have used Rodney's unit but I needed it right away and my local Autozone had one in stock.
I have used my vac. bleeder for years with great success.
Took about 45 minutes to change and bleed.
I use a bit of thread sealant on the bleeder screw to seal it.
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