1986 2M4 Hi, I am pretty sure that I have one cylinder on my old duke burning oil or the compression is off on that one anyway and the car is burning some oil.
Should I do a rebuild or leave it alone. If I do a rebuild how much of it should I do - rings, pistons, crank, etc.
Open to all ideas, but I would like to keep the car stock.
Most likely Valve seals. hard to tell without more info. whenever I " Open up" an old engine, I just do it all, not that much more and you know what you have in the end. ( especially on a 2.5, it's so easy)
I replaced the valve seals already, seemed to help with the blue sometimes on start up.
Mostly get smoke after I accelerate after coasting down a hill or sometimes idling over for a few minutes. The amount of oil I go through is hard to tell but I think somewheres about a quart on 200 miles or so.
aprox 140 to 150 across except one that is a little lower and comes up with oil added. 10w30
Does sound like a worn ring. When you open it up you can see if there is any scoring on the cylinder walls. The decision to rebuild or replace depends how easy it is to find a replacement 2.5 in your area. If it's tough to find or pricey in NFLD, then you may want to rebuild. Cylinder / head condition will determine how much work / cost a rebuild will be.
No 2.5's in this neck of the woods. There a while back I could have gotten a car with a 2.8 for about a $1000 with the cradle gone, but I would like to keep her stock.
I will have to check at the machine shops around to see what they will charge.
Well I checked around at the 2 machine shops we have here, it looks like without many parts only or any. Grinding, polishing, checking, etc, it's probably going to run me about $1000+. So I figure with all the parts and machine work it will cost about $1500......
It seems like if I drive it hard it goes through more and just around locally it's not bad. Since I got the car finally working enough to drive each day I am going to keep an eye on the oil.
I think though the last time I checked it was around 400-500klm's to about a quart.
Since I got the car finally working enough to drive each day I am going to keep an eye on the oil.
Did the car sit for a time? If so, it's POSSIBLE (though unlikely) that a stuck ring could be increasing oil consumption, might be worth giving an oil flush a go and pouring some Redex (or similar) into the cylinder and leaving overnight. If you're already considering having the lump rebuilt / replaced I'd say it's worth a go. I did this in an old 1300 Ford crossflow engine many years ago that had sat for a while and was run for about 40k between oil changes and it did improve the oil consumption quite considerably.
An easy and cheap check, but take a look at your air filter and PCV valve. If one or worse both are dirty and especially the PCV plugged, can lead to increased oil consumption.
aprox 140 to 150 across except one that is a little lower and comes up with oil added. 10w30
As long as the compression stays under 20% variance at all cylinders, the motor should be mechanically fine. Whats the reading on the once cylinder that was lower?
Originally posted by fieromatty: As long as the compression stays under 20% variance at all cylinders, the motor should be mechanically fine. Whats the reading on the once cylinder that was lower?
Yup... 10 psi diff is good most times. Most books allow 15-20PSI diff from high to low.
Most times, Oil burning means rings or valve. Very worn cyl walls won't help. New seals on old valves may help but still loses oil. Burning oil/coolant will kill the cat and O2 sensor.
Leaking oil check filter and OP sender. Both can leak w/ engine running and might not drip much or at all when the car is off. Iffy/bad OP sender then use New 88 sender. See my Cave, Oil Sensor
If you really want rebuild... look at jasper, some Auto parts stores, etc... They have engines ~$1500 for L4 w/ a warranty.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
An easy and cheap check, but take a look at your air filter and PCV valve. If one or worse both are dirty and especially the PCV plugged, can lead to increased oil consumption.
Hey, not the PCV or air filter, both are new and no restrictions on it.
Without double checking again(I have it wrote down somewhere), I think three are high 140's and don't come up much with oil(pound or two) and the other one(if memory serves me correct), its the first cylinder closes to the drivers side that one has about low 130's and might come up to about mid 140's with oil.
I may try some kind of chemical down on the piston overnight and see if that helps. I have the tripometer reset so I will monitor how much oil I will put in.
I guess another question do I have to get into spending $1200 - $1500 to do the old engine when I will probably only put 3000 or so miles on it each year? I was just hoping to get by with a ring job.
Question, is it possible to hone out the cylinders with the engine in the car, take head off, take basepan off and cover the crank(without removing)?
Hey, not the PCV or air filter, both are new and no restrictions on it.
Without double checking again(I have it wrote down somewhere), I think three are high 140's and don't come up much with oil(pound or two) and the other one(if memory serves me correct), its the first cylinder closes to the drivers side that one has about low 130's and might come up to about mid 140's with oil.
I may try some kind of chemical down on the piston overnight and see if that helps. I have the tripometer reset so I will monitor how much oil I will put in.
I guess another question do I have to get into spending $1200 - $1500 to do the old engine when I will probably only put 3000 or so miles on it each year? I was just hoping to get by with a ring job.
Question, is it possible to hone out the cylinders with the engine in the car, take head off, take basepan off and cover the crank(without removing)?
The compression sounds a lot closer than was implied earlier. With the numbers that close, I don't think I'd bother opening the engine. If you do open it, then the cylinder wall condition will determine if you need to do more than just change rings.
I replaced my '86 Duke with an '87 - as far as I understand, the '88 would be the same as far as installation goes.
The fuel lines hook up on the passenger side, so I made some lines to connect to the '86 lines on the driver's side.
The '88 air cleaner intake tube is longer.
Replace the '88 water pump with the '86 to keep the heater hose the same. The '88 heater hose connects to a 'Y' on the passenger side pipe under the door.
A little vacuum line customization will be required.
The '88 ECM will be needed including the mounting bracket. It's plug & play. (Or at least it was for me...)
Here are the compression numbers, I thought the lower cylinder was further on the drivers side but I had it reversed. starting from drivers side going to the passenger
dry 145 150 135 145 wet 146 152 149 149
What do you think of those numbers? What can I do with that lower cylinder?
Here are the compression numbers, I thought the lower cylinder was further on the drivers side but I had it reversed. starting from drivers side going to the passenger
dry 145 150 135 145 wet 146 152 149 149
What do you think of those numbers? What can I do with that lower cylinder?
Your compression is all great. No issues at all with these readings!
Check the compression and see how things are. How much oil are you adding and how often, what weight of oil, also how much is leaking?
just to be sure it is the rings, do a dry test first on each cylinder and then a wet test, spray a squirt of oil what ever you have into each cylinder before retesting and if the second test is higher than its definitely bad rings.
Old School Rules !
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
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