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Clutch disengagement by Heinz_57_Fiero
Started on: 05-10-2015 09:53 PM
Replies: 3 (132 views)
Last post by: Heinz_57_Fiero on 05-11-2015 09:48 AM
Heinz_57_Fiero
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Report this Post05-10-2015 09:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Heinz_57_FieroSend a Private Message to Heinz_57_FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I''m having a strange clutch related problem. I cannot get the car into any gear after it has sat overnight. In order to disengage the clutch, I have to start it in gear. It will lurch forward and stall. Then, the clutch will disengage and I can get it into gear and drive all day normally. After this started happening, I installed a new clutch pedal, master and slave cylinders. I made sure all the air was bled out of the system, and that I have at least one inch of rod movement from the slave. Any suggestions?
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fierofool
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Report this Post05-10-2015 10:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sometimes if there is still air in the system, you'll experience just what's happening with you. Try pumping the pedal a few times before trying to start the car. If it doesn't lurch forward, and the clutch works normally, then you do have air in it. Try this method for bleeding after the car has been sitting overnight:

A one person method of bleeding the clutch slave is as follows:

Elevate the left front wheel about 6 inches higher than the right rear wheel either by jacking up the front left or driving up an incline at about a 45 degree angle.

Top off the master cylinder and leave your bottle of fluid open and sitting close by.

Open the bleeder valve on the slave and as the fluid flows, tap the side of the slave sharply with a heavy wrench. A ratchet handle will do.

Keep close watch on the master cylinder reservoir and as it approaches the LOW mark, refill to the top. Do this about 3 times, tapping the slave occasionally.

As the fluid level drops to the FULL mark, close the slave bleeder valve and replace the cap on the master cylinder slave.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 05-10-2015).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post05-11-2015 12:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Heinz_57_Fiero:

I installed a new clutch pedal, master and slave cylinders.


Did you buy a dual-seal slave from Rodney? If not, the original style single-seal slaves very often have a problem with air getting sucked past the seal.
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Heinz_57_Fiero
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Report this Post05-11-2015 09:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Heinz_57_FieroSend a Private Message to Heinz_57_FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, it has new master and slave from Rodney, as well as a new clutch pedal and SS clutch line from the Fiero Store. I made sure I had 1 1/8 inches of travel on the slave rod, and that the banjo was installed with the loop up.
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