I tried "search" and didn't find anything, which probably means it's not worth the time or is possible. But here's my question.

Has anyone modified their stock 2.8 to run off of a MAF like the 2.8 in say, an 87 Cutlass Ciera? Reason I ask, the idle in my Fiero (and other Fieros with 2.8's that i've driven) intermittantly hunts when at idle. Occasionally it will stabilize, but most of the time it sits there hunting. I've checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the IAC and passages, and replaced all of the usual maintenance items. It just seems to be a normal operation. Our old Ciera doesn't do this. I was told that it's because the difference between management systems. What are your thoughts?

If it were a difference in software or data management, my Fiero would have a hunting idle too, and it does not. From what I can read, most Fieros don't have a hunting idle.

Well that's a bummer. I assumed that I had checked every cause: timing, tune-up/ignition components, vac leaks, egr. What's left? The two 87 GT's that I have, one a 5spd, the other an automatic both do this. The one with an auto trans has less than 100k miles on it. Both have an unsettled idle.

I wonder if there is something special about the '87 chip. Mine is a 88.

I doubt it. There's probably something wrong.

My 88 idle swings +-100rpms if the ac is on, +-50 off. I do have a vaccum leak at my solenoid though (rebuilt once before improperly)

Mine is acting similarly. What solenoid have you rebuilt? The egr?

Are you using stock injectors? There have been cases of replacement injectors causing a bad idle.

The only time I've ever had a "hunting idle" problem on a 2.8 Fiero, it was the A/C compressor cycling due to being locked up.

power and grounds problems in engine or other parts of car can cause idle hurting.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

All stock injectors. I'm going to check grounds and double check for vac leaks. I dribbled chemtool over vac lines and joints a few weeks back. Didn't get any rpm changes. My engine compartment is really clean and all of the lines are routed as they were from the factory. Nothing added or Mickey Mouse'd. It's just that when I get off of the freeway and step on the clutch, the rpm's drop then hunt around for a while when in neutral when waiting at the stop light. Less obvious with the a/c on. Sometimes at idle, the rpm will drop for a second, stumble around then pick back up again. Then hunt, then stabilize. I don't understand why, the car is only 28 years old

I would say the same as ogre. If you haven't checked/changed the grounds in awile, add some. Can't hurt and is a pretty common problem. Battery to engine and battery to body

quote Originally posted by donuteater306: Mine is acting similarly. What solenoid have you rebuilt? The egr?

Yes the egr solenoid , the coil was pretty dirty and was soldered up once before. The seal around the coil was damaged pretty bad too which is where I believe it to be leaking, haven't had enough downtime to try some silicone on it.

quote Originally posted by Riddick85: I would say the same as ogre. If you haven't checked/changed the grounds in awile, add some. Can't hurt and is a pretty common problem. Battery to engine and battery to body

Sadly no... Is a popular myth but Adding grounds can make more problems.

Fix/replace Any loose/weak/"bad" grounds and connectors because they can create "ground looping" and other problems.

ECM has several grounds bolted to engine and body. ECM really hates ground noise often cause by ground loops.
Engine to body have at least two. You can replace the braided ground w/ heavy braid w/ better spot to anchor on car side.
More see my Cave, Wire Service