Shew this image poster is going to take some getting used to! I'm going to have TONS of questions and pics to post!!
Well she's home for now. I gonna toss a battery in her and tinker around. I got TONS of diagrams and pin out lists and mechanical drawings to review as well. Lots to do and lots to think about! I can't wait to get her running again!
That is chaffing on the plug wires from the pulley. One of the wires is clean through to the conductor. The conductor is not cut all the way through but it is exposed and I am sure would have arced on the pulley.
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 04-13-2015).]
PO hears and seen the car running. The guy he bought it from had it on a lift. He reached up and shorted the starter and it ran. Sounds really great PO said!
Well PO brought it home and just never got around to messing with it much or other projects took over. PO is a member here BTW. Great guy!
Anyway when I went to look at it we jacked it up and slapped a battery in her. There are two ignition keys required as the DOHC key has a security chip that still needs to be bypassed via a resistor. That's for later. Anyway with both keys in the fuel pump primes and all the dash lights come on as per usual. Just no cranking.
So I'm inside digging through the boxes and boxes of stuff that PO had and stuff he got from the guy he bought it off of and I find this!
Maybe it's a horn button? Or a homemade trunk popper button? I looked quickly, but didn't see any wires that match these in the car. So IDK yet.
the wires were never stripped, so I guess it was never installed. I think it's a shade-tree trunk popper.....the PO was loosing interest at that point....
the wires were never stripped, so I guess it was never installed. I think it's a shade-tree trunk popper.....the PO was loosing interest at that point....
Well I finally found time to tinker on her and BIG steps have been made! She now wants to crank. I found the clutch safety switch had been disconnected.
I am trying to figure out how to upload a vid from my cell. But I am pretty sure my battery is toasted. It won't even take a charge.
So now that I have her running again the questions are...
What to do about the tach? It's obviously going to be off. I do have a tach out of an 86 2.8L manual 4 speed that I can put in but will it just be plug and play? Seems too easy.
Also what are folks doing about the Tstat or lack there of? I have a 2.8L Tstat that I can modify. It looks like the mating surface is about the same. Will it work and what do I need to modify?
There's a complete Z34 around here at a yard, keep me in mind if you need anything. All I ask is a beer at Gritty's.
Haha! Willdo Turbo. What stuff could I swap from the Z? Please forgive my noobness but I am trying to learn...
Oh and I am actually working at Alagash Brewing right now! Believe it or not. Right up the street from Grittys Brewing! I could definitely swing you a coldie!
That is chaffing on the plug wires from the pulley. One of the wires is clean through to the conductor. The conductor is not cut all the way through but it is exposed and I am sure would have arced on the pulley.
What type of mounts where used? How the engine sits on the cradle?
Haha! Willdo Turbo. What stuff could I swap from the Z? Please forgive my noobness but I am trying to learn...
Oh and I am actually working at Alagash Brewing right now! Believe it or not. Right up the street from Grittys Brewing! I could definitely swing you a coldie!
I guarantee you know more than I do. If you need any engine specific items, sensors, gauges, etc... I'm trying to learn myself, in spare time.
Never been to Alagash Brewery, it does sound a bit familiar though. Which one are you at? I always stop at the Gritty's in South Freeport or Auburn.
[This message has been edited by turbo86se (edited 04-19-2015).]
I guarantee you know more than I do. If you need any engine specific items, sensors, gauges, etc... I'm trying to learn myself, in spare time.
Never been to Alagash Brewery, it does sound a bit familiar though. Which one are you at? I always stop at the Gritty's in South Freeport or Auburn.
WTH Turbo?! Over <--- under your screen name its says Penn. You in Maine?
I'm working on the addition to the brewery. I don't actually work there. I'm an electrician. It's the one in Westbrook near Forest Ave and Riverside Dr. There are a few brewerys in that industrial park. IIRC 5.
WTH Turbo?! Over <--- under your screen name its says Penn. You in Maine?
I'm working on the addition to the brewery. I don't actually work there. I'm an electrician. It's the one in Westbrook near Forest Ave and Riverside Dr. There are a few brewerys in that industrial park. IIRC 5.
Hahaha no, I live in PA but I do make it up to Maine at least twice a summer. I'm Joel over on the FB message boards. If you do find yourself north of Auburn on Rt. 4 going towards Turner, there is a red fastback GT sitting off the road near a driveway. Looks to be in great shape, no tags. Check it out!
Hahaha no, I live in PA but I do make it up to Maine at least twice a summer. I'm Joel over on the FB message boards. If you do find yourself north of Auburn on Rt. 4 going towards Turner, there is a red fastback GT sitting off the road near a driveway. Looks to be in great shape, no tags. Check it out!
Auburn you say? Hmm. Might have to check that out!!
So I have a question and I thinks it's very important...
I have been building a Kahines deck vent for my 86 2.8L rear lid. Basically a vent in the center. Well this car is a 84 and came factory with the solid, unvented covers. AND, I am thinking what and how things will change if I use vented decklid vents from a 85 or later. Along with the Kahines deck vent. How will these changes affect air flow?
Installed a new water pump today and filled her with some water for now. She has been sitting for awhile. I also tried the clutch slightly and she nudged forward nicely. I need to do a lot of work before I take that first spin. I have to at least get some breaks working. Fast is great but stopping is equally important.
Super stoked and a big day!!
edited to fix the video...
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 04-23-2015).]
Well my valve tick is gone. IDK if it was the Rislone or not but I don't see why adding it would be a problem. The ticking is completely gone now.
So next I need to tackle the cooling system. For now I have it filled with tap water. I am going to have to put some thought into Dexcool. When the PO parked it they drained the coolant. We are not sure why but I am hopeful that they knew the problems surrounding Dexcool and drained it as a preventative measure. I haven't seen any leaks yet so that's a good sign. Oh yeah I did replace the water pump already. Super easy job on this motor compared to the 2.8.
Anyway I am thinking of throwing in a new Rad cap as this one seems to be leaking through the overflow stem. The water coming out is still cold. Shouldn't the rad caps thermostat be closed preventing flow till it gets hot enough? I mean it's flowing out at start up. Doesn't seem right...
TY. Yeah I couldn't agree more. IDK if it worked itself out or the Rislone did the trick. I am leaning towards it worked itself out BC the tick was getting less and less each time I started it.
So I need to cut a T into the coolant line for fills. Anyone know the i.d. of the main coolant line coming into the top of the motor? I suppose I could find out from the parts store.
Got a bunch of work done on the brakes! Someone removed the outer brake pad on drivers front side. Luckily I have a bunch of good spares kicking around. Hopefully I can slap it in today. The car still has Ebrake BTW. There is a custom cable bracket or two hanging from the rear of the cradle. Nice work!!
What to do about the tach? It's obviously going to be off. I do have a tach out of an 86 2.8L manual 4 speed that I can put in but will it just be plug and play? Seems too easy.
What about the speedo? I have a 120mph speedo to put in. I have the wire from the DOHC ECM speedo feed identified. Will I need Phonedawgs buffer?
Yes
What transmission are you running? 4000 or 24000 PPM VSS?
So I need to cut a T into the coolant line for fills. Anyone know the i.d. of the main coolant line coming into the top of the motor? I suppose I could find out from the parts store.
Got a bunch of work done on the brakes! Someone removed the outer brake pad on drivers front side. Luckily I have a bunch of good spares kicking around. Hopefully I can slap it in today. The car still has Ebrake BTW. There is a custom cable bracket or two hanging from the rear of the cradle. Nice work!!
This is what I did for mine:
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
TY! That's what I am looking to buy. I seen some in the other threads about 3.4L and others. I was just hoping someone knew the i.d. of the hose. 1.75 or 1.50. I'm looking at the ones on summit and trying to decide which to go with. And I cant see the writing on my dang hose...
While I got you Phonz will your part on ebay work for me? That speedo buffer? I was hoping you might see this thread.
Your ECM will need to be programmed for the correct PPM input to be able to run it through the PCM and use the PCM's 4000 ppm output and then my buffer to feed the speedo. With a Getrag (Fiero) 5 speed with the 4000 PPM VSS you can just Y splice the VSS to both the speedo input and ECM input. No board needed. The downfall is that you can't program for tire size differences corrections in the ECM.
Your ECM will need to be programmed for the correct PPM input to be able to run it through the PCM and use the PCM's 4000 ppm output and then my buffer to feed the speedo. With a Getrag (Fiero) 5 speed with the 4000 PPM VSS you can just Y splice the VSS to both the speedo input and ECM input. No board needed. The downfall is that you can't program for tire size differences corrections in the ECM.
Let me know if you still want the buffer board.
gofast@reddevilriver.com
Yes I will want that buffer. What about my tach problems? Can I just swap a 4cyl tach to a 6cyl tach. I think doing that will cause problems. Should I switch out the plastic circuit board thingy too? Or would just swapping a 6cyl dash in work? Besides the 120mph speedo swap that is...
edit to add... IDK if swapping in a 6cyl dash is even going to work at all. My car is a 84. Would an 84 dash wring work with other years dash?
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 05-02-2015).]
The 95 grand prix (as I was told this motor came from) is OBD1. Well I borrowed a friends ODB scanner and it only reads OBD2. So guess what....This motor is from a 96 Monte Carlo. I been looking over all kinds of info on the web and everything points me towards the 96 Monty.
Ok so in scanning I pulled two codes. P1864 and P1642
Fan control relay 2 and 3 control circuit. And TCC enable solenoid electrical fault conditions.The Fan control relay code I am not too worried about as there is only 1 fan anyway. It's the TCC enable solenoid code that I don't yet understand fully.
Also she is sputtering sometimes. I think it may be due to the chaffed plug wires. Like cylinder #5 is not firing correctly all the time. #5's plug wire is chaffed pretty bad and all the way into the electrode. It's not all the way through but it is into it. Hopefully maybe this is the cause of my occasional sputter?!
Even still she pulls hard through the gears and has plenty of get up and GO!!
The TCC code is probably because there is no TCC if that's a stick you've got it hooked up to! ODB I or II is a function (mostly) of the ECM, not the motor itself although a motor setup for ODB II has far more sensors on it than an ODB I motor. When I did mine, I used the ODB I ECM and prom chip programed for a stick shift. Worked just fine.
Like the video, brings back memories.
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
The TCC code is probably because there is no TCC if that's a stick you've got it hooked up to! ODB I or II is a function (mostly) of the ECM, not the motor itself although a motor setup for ODB II has far more sensors on it than an ODB I motor. When I did mine, I used the ODB I ECM and prom chip programed for a stick shift. Worked just fine.
Like the video, brings back memories.
Oh snap that is right! It's mated to a 5 speed getrag so no TCC! This would maybe explain why if I hit clear engine light on the scanner the light comes right back on. Hmm how would I trick it? So I can get the light to go out... I suppose I will need to do some research!
Anyone know the i.d. of the coolant hose coming off the top (return) on a 96 Monty 3.4L DOHC? I need to cut an inline filler like in this link in and don't want to order the wrong size. http://www.summitracing.com...yword=inine%20filler
Any help would be greatly appreciated! HAGD everyone!!
For each ofl three circuits - put a light bulb to switched +12 to the ECM lead. That will simulate the relay's coil and will prevent the ECM from giving you the alarms. Both the fan relay circuit and the TCC circuit have the ECM grounding the relay coil, with the other side of the coil connected to switched +12.
For each ofl three circuits - put a light bulb to switched +12 to the ECM lead. That will simulate the relay's coil and will prevent the ECM from giving you the alarms. Both the fan relay circuit and the TCC circuit have the ECM grounding the relay coil, with the other side of the coil connected to switched +12.
AWESOME Phonez!! TY for taking the time to post the helpful tip!! I am going to look over the builders schematics and pinouts and findout which wires go to the cooling fan 2 and 3 relays. When you say 'switched +12 to the ECM' is this what you mean? I think so... Anyway TY! I would have never thought that a bulb would be enough.