When my dad finally let me have the 86 Fiero GT that was being held in the garage I immediately bought it a battery. The problem I'm experiencing is that the car starts fine but it sounds as if it wants to cut off. In addition, when I set it to reverse the car jerks and the engine seems to cut off. The same when put into drive. Any suggestions on what to do or ideas what could be the problem?
sorry about the lack of information...but it was sitting for about 8 years or so. I replenished the gas since it didn't have any and the oil is new too. From what I remember the car ran well in the past.
I would say that after sitting that long the brake pads are probably stuck to the rotors. Jack up the car and try turning the wheels. If that is the case I'm not sure what the BEST remedy is. You can spray the pads with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster where the pad contacts the rotor, but that will ruin the pad. Brake pads aren't that expensive however. Just don't drive the car until you've replaced them.
However, the e-brake cable could also be seized. If it is, it's best just to replace it. You can always remove it, hang it vertically and see if you can drip PB Blaster into the end. With a bit of luck that could unstick it.
Originally posted by Patrick: I'm a little confused how the issue went from an engine that wants to stall to sticking brakes?
no clue either...
but Oil spray on any brakes is a good way to ruin the brakes. Frozen cable might help but anything else Hates oil and most greases.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
big help if we knew if it was auto or stick. If auto, I agree the torgue converter lockup could cause an auto to stall out if its stuck engaged. In neutral can you move the car by hand ? If it rolls, the brakes aren't stuck. If it don't, jack up each wheel to see which is stuck. Any car that's sat 8 years needs a total brake job anyway before Id drive it a block. Chances are they would go out on the way where your going from seals or lines going bad.
The TCC is a common failure. If it is stuck there will be no "neutral" and the car will stall, not idle.
Does a stuck TCC affect the tranny when it's in "Park"? If so, I was unaware of that. I thought it only affected the tranny (by stalling the engine when coming to a stop) while in "Drive" (or in "Reverse").
Does a stuck TCC affect the tranny when it's in "Park"? If so, I was unaware of that. I thought it only affected the tranny (by stalling the engine when coming to a stop) while in "Drive" (or in "Reverse").
I phrased my statement wrong, I should have said no neutral in gear. You are correct. His complaint was that it runs poorly and jerks and wants to cut off in forward and reverse. It only takes seconds to unplug the TCC, common sense says start there. But instead of doing this simple test for a common problem he wants someone the tell him it can be a "loose hose" or a "sensor".
My dad was saying it could be a bad sensor or loose hose. Could he be right?
Ask him what sensor or hose he is talking about. The two possibilities really mean nothing, other than he doesn't know what is wrong and said two car words to sound smart.
His complaint was that it runs poorly and jerks and wants to cut off in forward and reverse.
Ah, but back up half a step. The heading of this thread is certainly misleading , but if I'm interpreting the first post correctly, the engine wants to stall even prior to putting it into gear. If the engine is running very poorly while out of gear, it's no surprise that it stalls when put under load in "Drive" or "Reverse".
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Originally posted by Sleepyboii:
The problem I'm experiencing is that the car starts fine but it sounds as if it wants to cut off.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-12-2015).]
Is it possible that a rodent may have made a home in the car during the 8 years? Could a vacuum hose be chewed on or cracked? Isn't there a vacuum modulator on the tranny?
Ok, I am surprised that no one has told you to back away from the car yet. You need to go though the basics before you even try to start it.
Our little cars are pretty basic, they need 3 things to run. Air Spark and Fuel....
First you need to change the oil, flush the coolant (check the ogre's cave for refill instructions. His page is linked at the top of every page) and check the trans fluid level. Having brakes that work is great, but they are not gonna keep your motor from idling properly.
You might want to put a little oil in the cylinders to help the motor turn over....
Check fuel... the 2.8 needs about 40-48 psi primed (just turn to the key to run, do not start it yet) you will have to hook a fuel gauge up to the fuel rail.
Check for spark, one of the biggest problems I have encountered with my fiero is problems with spark. The ICM is a common failure point.... I would change spark plugs and plug wires if you have the money. You might even want to rebuild the distributor if you can spare the cash. If you don't address these problems now, chances are you will find yourself stranded on the side of the road in less then a month.
If it's been sitting for eight years, everything rubber and everything in the fuel system is 100% suspect. I would be expecting vacuum leaks, fuel blockages (filter and injectors), and all sorts of coolant hoses and belts just getting ready to fail. The nearly stalling thing could be poor delivery from a clogged filter or injectors or significant vacuum leaks, so I'd start with that stuff. Bringing cars back from the dead is always dealing with a million little annoying details.
, but... 
, but if I'm interpreting the first post correctly, the engine wants to stall even prior to putting it into gear. If the engine is running very poorly while out of gear, it's no surprise that it stalls when put under load in "Drive" or "Reverse".
