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18x9.5 wheels don't fit, what did I do wrong? Please help by huracan2015
Started on: 03-12-2015 01:59 PM
Replies: 19 (679 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 03-15-2015 02:45 PM
huracan2015
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Report this Post03-12-2015 01:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for huracan2015Send a Private Message to huracan2015Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I did hours of research, got all the parts needed to build coilovers, and ordered some 18x9.5 45mm wheels for the rear. They don't fit. The rim itself measides 10.5 wide which is the extra inch I need for clearance. Those of you with 9.5s, how did you make them fit? My car is an '87 by the way
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Gall757
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Report this Post03-12-2015 02:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do you have 9.5" wheels, or 10.5" wheels?
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huracan2015
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Report this Post03-12-2015 02:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for huracan2015Send a Private Message to huracan2015Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

Do you have 9.5" wheels, or 10.5" wheels?


9.5 but measure 10.5 from bead to bead. I know that's normal
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Gall757
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Report this Post03-12-2015 02:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Joe Torma says they don't fit.

Wheel Offset Diagram
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-12-2015 03:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What do they hit? Is it the rims or the tires that interfere? Where do they interfere?
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huracan2015
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Report this Post03-12-2015 04:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for huracan2015Send a Private Message to huracan2015Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Steven Snyder:

What do they hit? Is it the rims or the tires that interfere? Where do they interfere?


I'll add pics later but the rim is about 2 mm away from the stock strut. I'm going to be putting my coilovers, and the sleeve is more than 2 mm so it would hit.
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Neils88
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Report this Post03-12-2015 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by huracan2015:

9.5 but measure 10.5 from bead to bead. I know that's normal


Not to belabour the point, but I've never heard this before. I thought the width is measured from bead to bead!?
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tebailey
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Report this Post03-12-2015 07:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
They measure the width from the inside of the bead, if yours measures 9.5 from inside to inside they're right. Other that that I'm running 8" so I can't help there.
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huracan2015
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Report this Post03-12-2015 07:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for huracan2015Send a Private Message to huracan2015Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here is the clearance. It "fits" but once I put on my coilovers, the sleeve will take up all of that gap and then some. I can add a small spacer, maybe 10mm to be safe, but the wheels already stick out pretty much as far as I'm willing to go


[This message has been edited by huracan2015 (edited 03-12-2015).]

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JCircs
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Report this Post03-12-2015 07:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JCircsClick Here to Email JCircsSend a Private Message to JCircsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have an 87 also, I'm running 18x9.5 rears with a +40 offset and coil overs. I needed to use a 1/4" spacer to clear the shock, you are running +45 offset so I think you would need 1/2" spacer.
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post03-12-2015 08:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageClick Here to Email Steven SnyderSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Oh, you don't have an '88. The '84-'87 cars don't have as much room in the rear because of the position of the strut.

Make sure you install extended wheel studs if you end up using a spacer. Actually, even if without a spacer I find that the rear doesn't really have much thread engagement.. 6 turns at best with my Motegi wheels.

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 03-12-2015).]

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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-12-2015 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You don't have to run the sleeve all the way down to the bolt flange. Cut the spring perch above the weld bead and mount the sleeve on top of it.

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Patrick
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Report this Post03-13-2015 06:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not wanting to side-track this discussion... but Fieroguru, is that gizmo some kind of magnetic bubble-level for setting camber?

EDIT: Must be one of These. Cool.

 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:



[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-13-2015).]

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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-13-2015 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Not wanting to side-track this discussion... but Fieroguru, is that gizmo some kind of magnetic bubble-level for setting camber?

EDIT: Must be one of These. Cool.


Correct.

But now I use these:
http://www.harborfreight.co...gle-gauge-95998.html

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 03-13-2015).]

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DisplacementIsKing
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Report this Post03-13-2015 07:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DisplacementIsKingClick Here to Email DisplacementIsKingSend a Private Message to DisplacementIsKingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
9.5" is a lot of rim, looks good!
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IXSLR8
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Report this Post03-14-2015 01:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IXSLR8Click Here to Email IXSLR8Send a Private Message to IXSLR8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What Fieroguru said.

You can also get different length sleeves and springs so you can adjust where your springs rest down near that weld on the strut. So, your 18x9.5's should work just fine.

We are running 18x8's on the front and 19x8.5 on the rear of my sons 85GT and my 88GT with coil overs using 350 lb rated QA1's.
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Will
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Report this Post03-15-2015 08:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

You don't have to run the sleeve all the way down to the bolt flange. Cut the spring perch above the weld bead and mount the sleeve on top of it.



What springs do you use and how does the travel of the spring match up to the travel of the strut?

I have 12" HAL QA1 springs. They were cheap, but have a fairly high coil density, so they don't have much travel. I wouldn't be comfortable with 10" springs and 8" springs would be coil binding over every speed bump. A 10" spring is as long as can be used with the "high perch" method you outlined, if wheel and tire clearance is the reason to do it that way.
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Csjag
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Report this Post03-15-2015 09:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CsjagClick Here to Email CsjagSend a Private Message to CsjagEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


Correct.

But now I use these:
http://www.harborfreight.co...gle-gauge-95998.html



So with that gizmo I could do an alignment at home?
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Will
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Report this Post03-15-2015 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can set CAMBER yourself that way, but that device won't let you set caster or toe. There are lots of methods for DIY alignment around, but they are based on setting up strings for measurements and require reset after every adjustment.
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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-15-2015 02:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

You can set CAMBER yourself that way, but that device won't let you set caster or toe. There are lots of methods for DIY alignment around, but they are based on setting up strings for measurements and require reset after every adjustment.


I use them for caster as well using the machined flat from the tie rod as a perpendicular reference to caster.

I also have clamp on toe bars for setting toe.
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