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Windows leak around the top by fiero91
Started on: 03-10-2015 01:32 AM
Replies: 10 (187 views)
Last post by: theogre on 03-11-2015 09:12 AM
fiero91
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Report this Post03-10-2015 01:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero91Click Here to Email fiero91Send a Private Message to fiero91Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey all, I just purchased an 85 SE V6, and the first (of many) problem that I need to fix is that the windows leak at the top. Both doors do this, the drivers door in two spots, the passenger in one. I have noticed that the window on the drivers side doesn't close tight into the weatherstripping (I could probably slip my drivers liscense into the car with the door shut and the window up all the way. I was wondering if anyone's had luck maybe putting something (a medium gauge wire possibly) behind the weatherstrip to make everything tighter, or maybe if there's a window guide (I restored an 84, did a ton of work but never had the doors apart) that might just need to be bent back into position, or if I just have to come up with a replacement weatherstrip? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post03-10-2015 06:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Make sure your window is going up completely, by raising it when the door open. If you still have a gap, you can get into the door and adjust the tilt of the window. I had to do this when installing power windows and weatherstripping in my convertible fiero.

Here is a writeup I did on installing power windows: http://www.michiganfieroclub.com/files/power.pdf

I can't remember which bolts tilt the window, but once you have it apart, you should be able to see what needs to be adjusted. You want to move the bottom of the window out, so the top tilts in.
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sardonyx247
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Report this Post03-10-2015 06:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You have one of two problems, weak motors, or really dirty switches. or misadjusted windows (far less common, even rare)
To explain:weak motors the get hot and won't go up the rest of the way, or really dirty switches you don't get full power to the motors

Try first, as it is free. Clean all the window tracks of old grease, and regrease, (where the rollers go not the windows itself) and clean out all the old dielectric grease out of the switches, no real need to add more as it is in the inside of the car.

Then after that, you can get a window accelerator kit (I sell one) (it uses relays to bypass the switches thus providing full current to the motors) and/or new motors.
But since both your windows do it, and the pass side is used so much less, I would bet on dirty switches.

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fiero91
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Report this Post03-10-2015 12:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero91Click Here to Email fiero91Send a Private Message to fiero91Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Can't be dirty switches, I should've said this in the first post, but they're manual windows(for now at least). It looks like they're going up all the way, I'll try taking the door apart ad adjusting them, will keep you guys posted on progress, thanks
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Report this Post03-10-2015 01:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Even after you get the window guide adjusted, you might still notice water leaking through in certain conditions, such as when washing the car. Even with a properly adjusted seal, the rubber door gasket can dry out over time and can result in a greater chance of leakage with pressurized water. You might need to replace the gasket or recondition it if possible, after adjusting the window guides, if this happens.
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theogre
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Report this Post03-10-2015 01:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Make very sure the door is correct before adjusting the window.
Miss-adjusted/bad door hinges and/or worn latch or latch strike can cause windows problems.

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post03-11-2015 03:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Make very sure the door is correct before adjusting the window.
Miss-adjusted/bad door hinges and/or worn latch or latch strike can cause windows problems.



Very good point, Orge
There are brass type bushings that go around the hinge pins, they tend to break, have a look there.
Also does the door trim line up with the body trim, IE: is the door saging?
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fiero91
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Report this Post03-11-2015 08:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero91Click Here to Email fiero91Send a Private Message to fiero91Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, that's the strange thing, the door shuts perfectly, all the trim lines up, but the windows just don't push hard on the trim at the top. On my last one, I remember them pushing in on the trim nice and tight, but this one they just don't, it's extremely loud they way they let wind in on the E-way, similar to having it open just a bit.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post03-11-2015 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are upper limit stops for the window. You could try adjusting these first. They limit how far the window goes up.
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Report this Post03-11-2015 09:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Shouldnt they be adjustable by moving the bottom of the glass outward which would move the top inward?
Oddly enough I havent adjusted door glass yet either.

Oh look what I found its called "tilt adjustment"

http://www.fierottop.com/waterleak/leak5.html

"To adjust, loosen the two 10mm bolts at the glass stabilizer. Move the door glass in or out by holding the top edge of the glass with the glass in the full position. Tighten the bolts and check the door glass to the weatherseal by operating the glass up & down with the door closed. Also open & close the door with the door glass in the full up position. Readjust the door glass until the proper sealing position is reached."
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theogre
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Report this Post03-11-2015 09:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Too add to post above...
And Beside iffy hinges causing problems...

Door hinges to body doesn't allow much adjustment, really very little to none, but hinge to door bolts allow enough to be big problems to adjust window.

Is a bit easier to Treat the door frame adjustment as aircraft etc. (Google: pitch yaw roll images)

When you do...
This means you can adjust Fiero doors in up/down, in/out, and Roll. Roll is what many miss.
Door can look ok to the eye but a frame adjustment small amount off and windows refuse to seal and often can't adjust the window tracks etc to fix this.

Other cars can allow hinge to body adjustments then add forward/back, up/down, and Pitch. Pitch error, like bad hinge bushings, is what make the door to "sag" re to the car body.
Note that bent/damage door frame and/or hinges can cause Pitch errors even when bushing are new. Fiero door is heavy to start then add rust or just hitting an open door can cause problems.

I never put that in my cave... Just forget this... sorry.
Does have note to adjust outer skin but do that AFTER you fix the door frame and window. Many time you won't need to mess w/ this.
See my Cave, Doors
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