I have a dragging front brake on the driver's side. I have pulled it off, and worked the piston in and out with a c clamp. It appears to be functioning. I noticed that the slider sleeves are not moving within the caliper body ( these are the sleeves the mounting bolts go through) Should they be moving freely, or are they fixed within the caliper body? Thanks in advance . S.

You may want to pull the caliper and clean and lube the pins and sleeves. The caliper has to slide on the pins or it will drag on the rotor the first time you hit the brakes.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 03-04-2015).]

So the sleeves are fixed, and the lubrication would be on the pins and the INSIDE bore of the sleeves?

The sleeves should slide against the rubber o-rings in the caliper. The caliper floats on the sleeves. The o-rings keep the caliper from sliding to far back. I lube the pins for future removal.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 03-04-2015).]

Thankyou for your input! So I guess the next question would be: if my sleeves are frozen into the caliper, hiow can I drift them out without damaging snything?

I would try letting them soak in penetrating oil, then tap them out with a deep well socket, your probably going to need to get a hardware kit for them, so don't worry about ruining them they're not too expensive. Mine had sat for 10yrs and were froze up bad. I managed to save the front calipers, but that was all. I had to replace all the pins and bushings. The bolts come with the sliders, I got mine at autozone, if you can't find them local the Fiero Store sells them. Also the boot kits that come with all the seals for them.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 03-04-2015).]

Get a rebuilt caliper- 2 new brake hoses - new friction on both sides - refresh the brake fluid. Not as expensive as you think and makes life so much easier.

If there is any sign of fluid leaking out the pistons, that would be the way to go. I went the cheap route and rebuilt mine, the kit was only $3@ for the calipers and if I remember right the hardware kits were about $15 for both sides. Hoses are always a good idea given the age these cars are getting to be.

"Frozen" sliders are easy when people didn't lube them. Might have too much corrosion to remove slider w/o hydro pressing.
"Stuck" sliders could be corrosion or wrong lube. Wrong lube can swell the rubber "O-ring" bushings and cause pad problems. Most times you can fix this and use new "O-rings."
But!
Normal operation sliders can stuck trying to move by hand even enough and correct lube is used.

Should be fairly easy to remove using big pliers etc to press out the sleeve.

"O-rings" are the "Spring" for outer pads so won't drag the rotor.
Right after you lube them can slid easy but after a bit is hard to slid w/ hand pressure. Don't worry. Sliders will move at brake pressure if you lube the correctly.

Use Brake Grease. If you think wrong lube was used then need new O-ring because swelling damage is permanent.

See my Cave, Brake Service

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Just a followup to all this: I do not have access to rebuilt anything for the Fiero in Mexico, and Autozone here does not stock much either- no O rings, caliper bolts, sliders, etc. So I got creative, and once I drifted out the sliders, which were in good condition, I noticed someone before me had used the wrong grease, and the o rings were really swollen. It took some serious pounding to get the sliders to move at all. I took some emery cloth, and buffed down the o rings a bit, did manage to find silicone grease ( not easy) and got that all working very smoothly. i have now found out the piston is sticky, and does not retract fully without some coaxing. So the project goes on.....