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clutch master cylinder question by Tuna Helper
Started on: 02-24-2015 01:50 PM
Replies: 12 (154 views)
Last post by: olejoedad on 02-25-2015 10:22 PM
Tuna Helper
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Report this Post02-24-2015 01:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tuna HelperClick Here to Email Tuna HelperSend a Private Message to Tuna HelperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm still having clutch issues. Been bleeding and bleeding. Pulled the master off to bench bleed it again, and noticed that the piston does not come tight against the snap ring that holds it in, possibly causing the bleed hole to remain covered and not let fluid in? Or not give the full amount of stroke? It's not a lot, less than an eighth, maybe as little as a sixteenth. It's an RD master, new in the sense that It's been on the car for a couple years but I haven't yet gotten the clutch to release.
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Csjag
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Report this Post02-24-2015 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CsjagClick Here to Email CsjagSend a Private Message to CsjagEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is your slave a R. Dickman product?
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sardonyx247
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Report this Post02-24-2015 02:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
a way to tell if it is covering the hole,
all hooked up on the car...you should be able to push in the slave.
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Tuna Helper
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Report this Post02-24-2015 02:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tuna HelperClick Here to Email Tuna HelperSend a Private Message to Tuna HelperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, RD=Rodney Dickman

I've noticed it does that, if I have the banjo adjusted tight enough.

The annoying thing is there is no way to visually check what's going on inside the bell housing.
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Csjag
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Report this Post02-24-2015 03:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CsjagClick Here to Email CsjagSend a Private Message to CsjagEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Are you taking the bleeder screw completely out of the slave when you are bleeding and then when you put the bleeder screw back in for the last time are you wrapping it with thread tape before you put it back in?
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gtoformula
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Report this Post02-24-2015 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaClick Here to Email gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tuna Helper:

I'm still having clutch issues. Been bleeding and bleeding. Pulled the master off to bench bleed it again, and noticed that the piston does not come tight against the snap ring that holds it in, possibly causing the bleed hole to remain covered and not let fluid in? Or not give the full amount of stroke? It's not a lot, less than an eighth, maybe as little as a sixteenth. It's an RD master, new in the sense that It's been on the car for a couple years but I haven't yet gotten the clutch to release.


How was your clutch pedal operating prior to replacing the master? I have one of Rodney's adjustable banjos on my car and made the mistake of over adjusting it ... caused a issue to the bleed hole. Worked great once I reduced the bango length. Also, did you replace the slave. I couldn't get the system to bleed properly and finally replaced the slave cylinder piston with one of Rodney's double seal pistons. Made the largest improvement of anything that I did to the system.
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Tuna Helper
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Report this Post02-24-2015 04:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tuna HelperClick Here to Email Tuna HelperSend a Private Message to Tuna HelperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was on my way home when the clutch gave out. I had stomped on the pedal, grabbed another gear, and let it out as I hammered on the throttle. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/095190.html

The best I've gotten out of it is an inch and an eighth of pushrod travel.

The pedal feels a little spongy at the beginning of the stroke, so I think I may have air trapped somewhere, but I've been working on this for a couple days now and would think that I've got all the air out. Also, when I pull the pushrod in and let it go, it takes off fast, then slows some, then slows more, until it seems it's very very slowly extending back into the clutch lever.

I'm at the point I'm willing to take it to a shop to have it done if I can get it out of the garage.
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2.5
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Report this Post02-24-2015 05:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sure its a hydraulics problem?
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gtoformula
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Report this Post02-24-2015 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaClick Here to Email gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tuna Helper:

I was on my way home when the clutch gave out. I had stomped on the pedal, grabbed another gear, and let it out as I hammered on the throttle. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/095190.html

The best I've gotten out of it is an inch and an eighth of pushrod travel.

The pedal feels a little spongy at the beginning of the stroke, so I think I may have air trapped somewhere, but I've been working on this for a couple days now and would think that I've got all the air out. Also, when I pull the pushrod in and let it go, it takes off fast, then slows some, then slows more, until it seems it's very very slowly extending back into the clutch lever.

Other than the master cylinder failure this sounds like what mine was like. I fought with it bleeding it various methods (including a pressure bleed), but never made much improvement. If you haven't replaced your slave cylinder then I highly recommend that you do so. The original slave has only one internal seal. Imagine how much that wears over almost 30 years. Rodney's has two seals. The bore of my slave was smooth so I just replaced the piston/seal assembly. Worked great.
I'm at the point I'm willing to take it to a shop to have it done if I can get it out of the garage.


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Tuna Helper
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Report this Post02-24-2015 06:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tuna HelperClick Here to Email Tuna HelperSend a Private Message to Tuna HelperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:

Sure its a hydraulics problem?


Pretty sure. Just put in a new friction disc, .840 flywheel, and pressure plate.

Both master and slave have been replaced with Rodney's parts, clutch pedal has also been replaced. Banjo is up.

[This message has been edited by Tuna Helper (edited 02-24-2015).]

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Rodney
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Report this Post02-24-2015 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageClick Here to Email RodneySend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tuna Helper:

The best I've gotten out of it is an inch and an eighth of pushrod travel.

.


You are at 100% travel. 1 1/8" travel. That is all you can ever get out of that slave if it is bled correctly and everything is adjusted right.

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

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Tuna Helper
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Report this Post02-25-2015 10:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tuna HelperClick Here to Email Tuna HelperSend a Private Message to Tuna HelperEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OK, thanks. It must be something else then.

Does anyone know the thickness of the friction disc? And does it have to be matched to the pressure plate?
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olejoedad
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Report this Post02-25-2015 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pressure plate, friction disc and T/O bearing must be matched........
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