I'm still having clutch issues. Been bleeding and bleeding. Pulled the master off to bench bleed it again, and noticed that the piston does not come tight against the snap ring that holds it in, possibly causing the bleed hole to remain covered and not let fluid in? Or not give the full amount of stroke? It's not a lot, less than an eighth, maybe as little as a sixteenth. It's an RD master, new in the sense that It's been on the car for a couple years but I haven't yet gotten the clutch to release.
Are you taking the bleeder screw completely out of the slave when you are bleeding and then when you put the bleeder screw back in for the last time are you wrapping it with thread tape before you put it back in?
I'm still having clutch issues. Been bleeding and bleeding. Pulled the master off to bench bleed it again, and noticed that the piston does not come tight against the snap ring that holds it in, possibly causing the bleed hole to remain covered and not let fluid in? Or not give the full amount of stroke? It's not a lot, less than an eighth, maybe as little as a sixteenth. It's an RD master, new in the sense that It's been on the car for a couple years but I haven't yet gotten the clutch to release.
How was your clutch pedal operating prior to replacing the master? I have one of Rodney's adjustable banjos on my car and made the mistake of over adjusting it ... caused a issue to the bleed hole. Worked great once I reduced the bango length. Also, did you replace the slave. I couldn't get the system to bleed properly and finally replaced the slave cylinder piston with one of Rodney's double seal pistons. Made the largest improvement of anything that I did to the system.
The best I've gotten out of it is an inch and an eighth of pushrod travel.
The pedal feels a little spongy at the beginning of the stroke, so I think I may have air trapped somewhere, but I've been working on this for a couple days now and would think that I've got all the air out. Also, when I pull the pushrod in and let it go, it takes off fast, then slows some, then slows more, until it seems it's very very slowly extending back into the clutch lever.
I'm at the point I'm willing to take it to a shop to have it done if I can get it out of the garage.
The best I've gotten out of it is an inch and an eighth of pushrod travel.
The pedal feels a little spongy at the beginning of the stroke, so I think I may have air trapped somewhere, but I've been working on this for a couple days now and would think that I've got all the air out. Also, when I pull the pushrod in and let it go, it takes off fast, then slows some, then slows more, until it seems it's very very slowly extending back into the clutch lever.
Other than the master cylinder failure this sounds like what mine was like. I fought with it bleeding it various methods (including a pressure bleed), but never made much improvement. If you haven't replaced your slave cylinder then I highly recommend that you do so. The original slave has only one internal seal. Imagine how much that wears over almost 30 years. Rodney's has two seals. The bore of my slave was smooth so I just replaced the piston/seal assembly. Worked great. I'm at the point I'm willing to take it to a shop to have it done if I can get it out of the garage.
The best I've gotten out of it is an inch and an eighth of pushrod travel.
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You are at 100% travel. 1 1/8" travel. That is all you can ever get out of that slave if it is bled correctly and everything is adjusted right.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
