So I am putting my new engine back together (2.8). I purchased a new oil pan gasket, should i use rtv with the gasket, or will the gasket alone be fine.
Its the blue rubber felpro gasket incase your wondering.
Also, I am using red rtv to seal the timing cover and the water pump. Is that safe?
Just my $.02 - but I have - and am currently assembling engines professionally, like a couple or three a week large diesels - every one dyno'd with YOUR name on it.
In general, pan gasket should be fine by itself, except for a dab at the four corners. It would not hurt on the timing cover - EXCEPT that silicone can be pretty slippery, and can cause the gasket to slip out of place. On the timing cover, I would glue the gasket to the hardest surface, in this case the block, with something like Gasgecinch - not sure of the spelling - which is basically a contact adhesive. Let it set, then put a THIN bead only of RTV on the gasket, going to the inside of the bolt holes, not the outside. I am not so keen on red RTV, much prefer Permatex "Right Stuff", faster setting, "Tackier". You can also use a VERY thin coat of "Right Stuff" to tack the gasket to the block, let dry for about 15-20 minutes, then install timing cover with a bead on the timing cover side.
Seriously, gaskets have come a long way since the days of tin timing covers and cork pan gaskets - most of the sealants are really no longer necessary, except for a little extra insurance - if properly applied.
RTV isn't used w/ most gaskets. High-Tack (HT) work w/ many gaskets but even has limits.
Follow directions w/ casket, Haynes, etc... Some casket go dry or you will have problems. Example: Many normal valve cover can use HT. Use any sealer on L4 and FEL-PRO Part # VS50179T PermaDryPlus® and you will cause leaks.
Some gasket use very small amount of RTV only in splice zone, IE when two gasket pieces meet. You engine oil pan gasket is one piece so doesn't apply here. Timing cover might when meet oil pan depending on oil pan gasket.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
This might not be technically correct, but - typically with paper-type gaskets, I like to use a thin coat of RTV, I think it helps fill any inperfections in the mating surfaces. It's inevitable that the surfaces have some scratches and nicks in them with age and disassembly. The RTV also helps hold the gaskets in place while you assemble the parts.
With a rubber-type gasket like an oil pan gasket I don't think the RTV is necessary.
This might not be technically correct, but - typically with paper-type gaskets, I like to use a thin coat of RTV, I think it helps fill any inperfections in the mating surfaces. It's inevitable that the surfaces have some scratches and nicks in them with age and disassembly. The RTV also helps hold the gaskets in place while you assemble the parts.
With a rubber-type gasket like an oil pan gasket I don't think the RTV is necessary.
I dont think my 05 Chrysler had any gaskets at all except the heads. Valve covers, pan and trans pan only had black RTV. My SuperBees 413 was put together using only RTV too...except the heads and exhaust manifolds.
RTV has it's uses, but don't get carried away with it. I've tore down a lot of engines that were so gooed up with RTV that it plugged up the oil pick-up.
I found that with the good oil pan gasket, I just needed a little of the tacky spray. If you use the cork gaskets though, you are well advised to seal them on both sides. That said, you should hand tighten any RTV and leave overnight before you torque the bolts.
