I ran into problems when trying to solder corroded connections. I came across this website when terracing what to do, and I thought I would share it with the forum. Looks like a good and simple method of cleaning old wiring connections for repairs.
Any paste/liquid flux must be right type. Acid flux, like some plumbing flux, will cause electric item to fail and is why last step in your link is very important. You can get past and liquid flux that is safe for electric work.
You can get past w/ some solder in it so the it will "self tin" what you heat later.
Mouser Digikey etc have many options.
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I generally use your basic rosin flux. Got a big tub of it from Radio Shack for a few bucks. Make sure too that the tip of the iron is clean and tinned. Radio Shack also sells a small tip cleaning compound that helps too. It improves heat transference.
Good flux is the key to a good solder joint. When I first tried to solder I thought I had no talent for it. I was using rosin, when I switched to a specialty liquid flux for the electronics industry, I could solder like an artist.
Kester 2331-ZX. I have a gallon of it, enough to last me many lifetimes.
Start soldering with ½ a drop of solder on the iron. Press the iron on the joint and hold it in one spot. The half a drop of solder will form to the shape of the joint and make good thermal contact. With good flux when the joint heats up capillary attraction will draw the solder where it should go like magic. - Paul
[This message has been edited by Paul.S (edited 01-08-2015).]
I forget to add this... Note that some Fluxes while safe for electrical work... Don't get it on you skin and you shouldn't breath in solder and flux fumes. Many Paste and Liquid fluxes can irritate skin, damage eyes, etc. Fumes can irritate eyes, breathing, etc. Read the MSDS for these items. See my Cave, Bad Chemicals
Occasional use of solders and fluxes likely isn't a big problem.
Regular use of solder/flux indoors can cause HASMAT problems. Lead solders are worse but jury is still out on using RoHS lead free solders. When you solder, you generate fumes etc. Is the fumes that can cause issues and contaminate areas.
Let's say you had some switches like window switches or interior dimmer that sat around and now the contacts are oxidized and don't work well. If you gave them a vinegar bath, neutralized it and dried it . What would be a good lubricant to protect the freshly cleaned terminals?
Originally posted by Fierology: I ran into problems when trying to solder corroded connections. I came across this website when terracing what to do, and I thought I would share it with the forum. Looks like a good and simple method of cleaning old wiring connections for repairs.
Thanks for the link. i am doing some soldering and i got very frustrated attempting to solder old wires. Can't wait to give it a try.
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[This message has been edited by longjonsilver (edited 03-23-2020).]
Way too much work. First strip the wire and then fan out the strands. Take a reasonably sharp knife and "shave" off the corrosion. With stranded wire it comes right off. Then flip the wire and shave off the other side. Depending on how bad the wires are corroded you might need to reform the strands together and then fan them out 90 deg from the last shave and do it again. Your rosin core solder will stick like it's bare copper because it is bare copper.