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Crank won't start -- v6 swap by Johan
Started on: 12-30-2014 05:10 PM
Replies: 53 (926 views)
Last post by: Johan on 05-31-2015 04:10 PM
85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post03-13-2015 08:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Try this thread:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/000746.html

This is what an original balancer looks like:

[This message has been edited by 85 SE VIN 9 (edited 03-13-2015).]

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Johan
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Report this Post03-24-2015 05:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have looked into cold start injector and found out that the connector under the distributor were loose and hooked it up, starts after two tries now. Now I got 2 new problems, beside harmonic balancer thing. Thought I would look into IAC since it idles very high, unfortuneatly i almost broke it in half when i tried to unscrew it, have order a new one but old one isn't out yet.

Bigger problem at the moment is that the starter doesn't turn the engine over. It sounds like the battery have no power and can't turn the engine, but it have 13v and have turn the engine before with less volts. I can turn the engine by hand and i'm afraid that the starter is fried,could it be so?

/johan
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wu-style
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Report this Post03-24-2015 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wu-styleClick Here to Email wu-styleSend a Private Message to wu-styleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
sett på en start booster å prøv. Tror ikke startern er gåen. Den trenger mye strøm for å cranke. skal ikke så mye til før den ikke har nok strøm til å dra rundt motoren.
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Gall757
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Report this Post03-24-2015 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
HIgh Idle = Vacuum Leak. What is your rpm...warm idle?
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Johan
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Report this Post04-08-2015 05:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry for not updating here so frequently, but working outdoors and have been raining here for a while. Well I have reinstalled my alternator and replaced the iac, since i broke it and now the engine won't crank at all. Today i jumped my daily driver and got 14,15v at the battery, first try the engine barely turns, like the battery only have 11v or something, at the third try the starter doesn't even engage. The connections at the battery is okay, negative cable looks okay at engine, haven’t checked connection at starter. Could it be something else at this moment? Ignition switch? When I reinstalled the alternator I was a little eager and forgot to disconnect the battery, got some sparks when the positive cable from alternator touch the chassis, could that cause any problems?

When the engine ran it idled at 2500 according to tach.


/Johan
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Gall757
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Report this Post04-08-2015 05:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Johan:

I was a little eager and forgot to disconnect the battery, got some sparks when the positive cable from alternator touch the chassis, could that cause any problems?

/Johan


It drained your battery.... perhaps damaged it, but unlikely.
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Johan
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Report this Post04-11-2015 11:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When I try to start now, brakelight in dash light up, temp gauge hit max and clock in radio goes black. I can't turn key backwards til acc, I also have trouble getting the key out. If i disconnect ignition switch from keyassamble it's no problem, could it be an internal problem in the switch or could it be adjustment problem? After I tightened the torxbults inside steering column a while ago I have had problem that engine wouldn't start and acted this way, but not this bad. I have tried to start i N but no difference, have also tried to tilt steering I different positions but no difference.

/Johan
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Johan
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Report this Post05-09-2015 06:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It was the solenoid that gave up, changed the starter and now it starts up. My biggest problem for the moment is the white smoke from the tailpipes that doesn't decrease. When I startup it doesn't smoke that much but it increase while the engine is running. As I understand white smoke = coolant, but I think it smells like a two-stroke engine = oil. I have drained some oil, so I knew it’s the right level, the oil looks like this
The bottom of the thermostat looks like this

could this be normal? Have added coolant fluid, but haven't 'burped' the system, so I’m not sure if i have added enough or if the fluid take a detour to the combustion chamber. Due to this white smoke, should I do a compression test to see if the head gasket is bad?

/Johan
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Report this Post05-24-2015 05:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have done a compression test, results below:

110 120 140
6 4 2
5 3 1
130 120 110

One odd thing to add, there is no difference if i have open or closed throttle. The pressure builds up, first stroke i.e. 70, then 90 and 100, 110. If i add oil into the cylinders the pressure increases with 10 psi in each cylinder

Other interesting thing, if I remove the tube from front valve cover, that’s going into the air snorkel it comes white smoke. If I remove oil filler cap after the engine have been running there’s white smoke. If i remove the PCV on the back valve cover its gray fluid in the bottom. If i open the expansion tank for the coolant in the front, there is some dark sludge on top of the coolant. When I removed the front plugs they were black and oily.
Is it a bad head gasket, bad piston rings or maybe both?

Regards
Johan

[This message has been edited by Johan (edited 05-24-2015).]

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Neils88
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Report this Post05-24-2015 09:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Johan:

Have done a compression test, results below:

110 120 140
6 4 2
5 3 1
130 120 110

One odd thing to add, there is no difference if i have open or closed throttle. The pressure builds up, first stroke i.e. 70, then 90 and 100, 110. If i add oil into the cylinders the pressure increases with 10 psi in each cylinder

Other interesting thing, if I remove the tube from front valve cover, that’s going into the air snorkel it comes white smoke. If I remove oil filler cap after the engine have been running there’s white smoke. If i remove the PCV on the back valve cover its gray fluid in the bottom. If i open the expansion tank for the coolant in the front, there is some dark sludge on top of the coolant. When I removed the front plugs they were black and oily.
Is it a bad head gasket, bad piston rings or maybe both?

Regards
Johan



Judging by your oil and the white smoke, I would say your head gasket has gone. You'll need to check to make sure there aren't any cracks in the cylinders or the head (once you pull the head off).

Sorry...didn't read the whole thread. You present numbers from 4 cylinders, but the title says V6 swap...I guess I'd need to read the whole thread to figure this out...anyway, your engine most likely needs to be torn down and rebuilt or replaced.

[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 05-24-2015).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post05-25-2015 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I read those numbers this way...

1=110
2=140
3=120
4=120
5=130
6=110

Maybe the head bolts were not torqued properly? Its odd that both sides would be bad.
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Report this Post05-25-2015 10:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieromattyClick Here to Email fieromattySend a Private Message to fieromattyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

I read those numbers this way...

1=110
2=140
3=120
4=120
5=130
6=110

Maybe the head bolts were not torqued properly? Its odd that both sides would be bad.


What is the elevation at where you are at?

Is this a dry or wet test?

Honestly, I think these look good enough and shouldn't keep the motor from running.

[This message has been edited by fieromatty (edited 05-25-2015).]

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Johan
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Report this Post05-25-2015 12:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Your way looks better Gall757, it’s the way I meant. I forgot to add that the test is done with engine cold. Will look in to the head bolts later tonight.

The numbers are after I added oil, what do you med with wet or dry test, fieromatty? My town is approx. 100 meters above sea. After cranking a while the engine runs, but it’s a lot of white smoke from the tailpips.

Will also try to do a test with hot engine tonight.
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Report this Post05-31-2015 04:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohanSend a Private Message to JohanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have done a compression test with relatively warm engine, had it running for two minutes or so. No change I value, most interesting thing is that when i removed the plug from cylinder 5 it came white smoke/steam from the hole, could it be oil or water?

I found a rebuild engine not far from me, have 5000km on her after rebuild. Its drill to 2,9 l, honed and have MLS gasket. The seller asked 200 usd for it, so I buy it if it’s as good as he says.
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