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Locking front spindle position without steering rack? by dobey
Started on: 12-30-2014 10:38 AM
Replies: 4 (102 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 12-31-2014 02:44 PM
dobey
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Report this Post12-30-2014 10:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So,

I'd like to remove the steering rack in my car, to start poking at the install of the S2000 rack I have, a bit more. But I don't want to leave the front end in the air, and the car immovable, while I do. Anyone have any suggestions for how to lock the spindles in their current centered steering position prior to removing the rack, so that they will stay as such when it's removed? I'll need to be able to roll the car forward and back in a straight line with the rack removed, so I need to figure out some way to do this.
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FIEROPHREK
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Report this Post12-30-2014 11:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FIEROPHREKSend a Private Message to FIEROPHREKEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would get a long piece of steel tubing, pull your rack measure overall length from outer tie rod end to end, cut length plus like 1 inch on each side, drill holes for your length dimension for bolts that will fit through outer tie rod holes and bolt it in. You could probably use a long 2X4 also, but might have to clearance ends to fit under wheels.

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ARCHIES JUNK IS FASTER THAN SHAUNNA'S JUNK

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dobey
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Report this Post12-30-2014 12:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FIEROPHREK:

I would get a long piece of steel tubing, pull your rack measure overall length from outer tie rod end to end, cut length plus like 1 inch on each side, drill holes for your length dimension for bolts that will fit through outer tie rod holes and bolt it in. You could probably use a long 2X4 also, but might have to clearance ends to fit under wheels.



I think that will create a problem when raising or lowering the car though. Maybe I can just take a strip of scrap steel and tack it up between the spindle and lower control arm? That should theoretically hold it straight and let the suspension rise and fall as normal while still installed in the car and I work on it.

Or maybe I should just try to find a spare front crossmember with rack still installed, to do the work on instead? Main reason I wanted to do it with the rack I have is I don't have any room right now really to do anything else (and I don't want to end up with a spare front suspension laying around that nobody wants to buy).
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Raydar
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Report this Post12-31-2014 01:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Can you construct something out of all-thread, to span between the knuckles?
It wouldn't be pretty, but it would probably work. Might have to C-clamp it in the middle to keep the wheels straight.
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fieroguru
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Report this Post12-31-2014 02:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Can you construct something out of all-thread, to span between the knuckles?
It wouldn't be pretty, but it would probably work. Might have to C-clamp it in the middle to keep the wheels straight.


All thread, with a rod end type thing on one end to attach to the knuckle at the tierod mount, then the other end a flat piece of steel with a small hole to attach to the front crossmember where the rack bolts into place. As you raise/lower it the wheels would toe in/out, but you could adjust it so they were just right with the car on the ground.
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