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Duke Timing Gear by edfiero
Started on: 12-22-2014 06:16 PM
Replies: 5 (310 views)
Last post by: Rodrv6 on 12-24-2014 09:57 AM
edfiero
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Report this Post12-22-2014 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I need a new crankshaft gear. Per my previous thread, the gear on my super duty engine was loose. Upon removing it, I decided it should be replaced.
This super duty engine has Straight Cut gears on it , like this:

http://www.napaonline.com/C...-NTP81018_0130942339

200 bucks to buy a whole set. Ouch. I don't need the CAM gear.

Two questions.
Anyone know where I can buy a just the straight cut CRANK gear?
If I have to go to the stock type gear, then I'll have to replace the cam gear too. Is it possible to get a Steel/Iron angle cut gear, or are they only available in Fiber??

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Report this Post12-22-2014 06:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...130314-2-119508.html

the metal replacement for the standard 2.5l

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 12-22-2014).]

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theogre
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Report this Post12-22-2014 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
napa is "performance" gear set. That is sold only in a set.

You have "super duty" but using same crank pulley as normal? Mean no harmonic balancer... Is part of why the gears are bad.
Doesn't help if oil pump or distributor have problem too.

using Aluminum cam gear set is cheaper but last longer then fiber.

See my Cave, Cam Gears
could be hard to pull iron cam gear in the car. Is for fiber and Al gears. Al gears can be hard to pull/push too.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
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edfiero
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Report this Post12-23-2014 11:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks guys. I am going to order the alumimum gear and see how that works out. Found one pretty cheap on ebay.

Orge, I am thinking about getting the ATI Super Damper to add as a balancer. Do you think this is a good choice? Will I still be able to run the stock 84 pulley with the balancer on there ? I assume the balancer would be the same thickness as the stock hub but no way to know unless someone has been there and done that.

ATI seems to get more favorable reviews than the Fluiddamper.

Next I'll probably be posting on how to install these gears. I've seen the threads about how to PULL them off, but haven't seen much about the install. Hopefully I'll be able to pop the gears in the toaster oven for 20 minutes, and be good to go with a couple whacks of a rubber or plastic mallet. With garage down around 30 degrees and toaster fried gears, that will make for a nice temperature differential.
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theogre
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Report this Post12-23-2014 01:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

Thanks guys. I am going to order the alumimum gear and see how that works out. Found one pretty cheap on ebay.

Orge, I am thinking about getting the ATI Super Damper to add as a balancer. Do you think this is a good choice? Will I still be able to run the stock 84 pulley with the balancer on there ? I assume the balancer would be the same thickness as the stock hub but no way to know unless someone has been there and done that.

ATI seems to get more favorable reviews than the Fluiddamper.

Next I'll probably be posting on how to install these gears. I've seen the threads about how to PULL them off, but haven't seen much about the install. Hopefully I'll be able to pop the gears in the toaster oven for 20 minutes, and be good to go with a couple whacks of a rubber or plastic mallet. With garage down around 30 degrees and toaster fried gears, that will make for a nice temperature differential.

damper... likely no. the OE hub bolts inside the pulley. I think Damper is too big to mount the same.
(87+ damper is the crank pulley for this reason to replace OE pulley that is one piece.)
Different crank pulley? You would need to change many things but problem is no room to move the belt out because pulleys could hit the car frame and strut tower.

Likely because my cave and GM TSB doc's covers installing for years.

Hitting the gear to mount on cam is a very bad plan.
You can break things, blow out cam cover on trans side of engine, etc. That "washer" and mounting bolts are the only thing that locates the cam and gear in/on the engine block.
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Rodrv6
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Report this Post12-24-2014 09:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rodrv6Click Here to Email Rodrv6Send a Private Message to Rodrv6Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Theogre is correct--DO NOT drive the cam gear onto the camshaft! There is nothing to keep the cam from moving back into the block and pushing the cam bore plug out of the block and into the bell housing, plus possibly damaging cam lobes and lifters. Some have drilled and tapped a hole in the center of the cam and used a bolt and socket arrangement to pull the cam gear into place. In fact, this procedure is in the 84 shop manual. The only other way is to remove the cam and use a press to install the gear.

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Rod Schneider, Ball Ground, Ga.
"You can't have too many toys!"
1988 Fiero GT
1988 Porsche 928S4
1987 Corvette
2001 Chrysler 300M
Van's RV-6 airplane

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