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Body working products by TXGOOD
Started on: 12-21-2014 09:58 PM
Replies: 5 (192 views)
Last post by: rogergarrison on 12-24-2014 02:20 PM
TXGOOD
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Report this Post12-21-2014 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got some goodies this past week and they sure make bodyworking a lot easier.
The sandpaper has adhesive backing that sticks to the rubber blocks and they have a built in handle that makes it easier to hold when sanding.
I have used aerosol guide coat but this dry powder works really well.
It gets down into all of the small imperfections and sanding marks and you just sand until it all disappears then you have a smooth surface.
You can also use it to block sand your primer.


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rogergarrison
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Report this Post12-22-2014 02:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I dont like them myself except for the very final sanding. NOTHING works as well as a length of 1x4 inch block of hardwood for making panels straight. Use wood dowel rod for curves. If your repairing a body line, nothing but a hard block will work good. I can fix panels with intricate body lines to so straight it cant be seen that any other shops will only replace and not even attempt to repair. I do it all by hand too, no airboards except to rough it in. The blocks that have slots and hooks are absolutely worthless in my opinion. Using red oxide primer, you dont need to waste time and money with Guide Coat. You can see flaws just by the difference in color as you sand. Guide Coat is for people who dont know what theyre doing, lol. I use my hand as much as my eyes to fix panels...you can feel stuff you cannot see.

I recently got some of that rolled #36 Indasa and yet to form an opinion. Ive always used Green 3M stick it strips.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 12-22-2014).]

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TXGOOD
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Report this Post12-22-2014 03:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, as little as I do, I don`t know what I`m doing.
All I know is that my panels are coming out straight with no sanding marks using the dry dust.
I`m not going for show quality but I would like to get it to where people don`t say "what an amateur"
As I said, I have tried aerosol guide coat but it doesn`t seem to get into the very fine lines like the powder.
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post12-22-2014 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't know what that "dry dust" costs, but a $.99 can of flat black spray paint does the same thing.
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TXGOOD
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Report this Post12-22-2014 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:

I don't know what that "dry dust" costs, but a $.99 can of flat black spray paint does the same thing.


Use what makes you happy.
I like the high priced dust as it sands out easier and gets into smaller cracks than spray paint.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post12-24-2014 02:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Like I said red oxide primer works excellent. Flaws show up instantly as darker than the sanded areas. Ive also use a fine mist of spray can paint. Since I only use red oxide (paint peels off gray), i used aluminum spray. Since I can get it just as good with only the primer, I stopped doing it years ago. Because of the quality of work I turn out, I get a lot of very high end cars. I even get other body shops sending over some high dollar jobs because their body men cant compete. I do it to the point of primering/blocking and they do the finishing.
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