I found that the LEDs and the flasher do not work well together. I put the reg lights in and the flasher worked OK... You may need to replace flasher with an electronic version.
That is the issue. I have no conductivity and I don't know how to repair the ribbon. The flasher unit is not the issue on display bulbs. When I change the signal/brake lights over I'll be using an LED timer. In the meanwhile, I need to know the repair for the ribbon.
Originally posted by Arns85GT: I've been working on my cluster to retro fit LED peanut lights. (They are brighter and use less juice)
Brighter lights in the dash can cause bigger problem to drive at night. Dim dash is often dimmer circuit problems. See my Cave, Dash Dimmer
OE Dash Dimmer isn't made for LED. Can have problem because of that fact. Most LEDs are not make to work on dimmers in old cars. LED at home often won't work on normal dimmers and ones that do uses different electronics to regulate power to LED.
LED for alt light can cause the alt itself to fail to turn on.
Saving power?
194 bulb draws ~0.27a each
On idiot lights and turn lamps that are normally off? Bulb off draws no power.
Dash use 6 lamps to light gauges... Total is ~1.6a at full bright. Most people will put dimmer near the middle of range and mean bulbs use less power.
The only place where LED save power is park/tail lights and headlights because there on full time. Brake/turn lights draw more power but their off most of time and doesn't affect MPG. If you see problems using brake lights, you likely have other big issues like bad grounds or iffy alternator/battery.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thanks for the explanation Ogre. All the lights were working perfectly with the LED peanuts and this one blipped out the last time I had the display apart. I've had the pod out for work on it 4 times.
So I am trying to figure out how to repair or service the ribbon connector.
As for the brightness, I have not found the more up to date brightness to be a difficulty at all. There just isn't enough light display to bother my eyes at night and in gloomy conditions it is a help. It looks far nicer.
So back to repairing and servicing the ribbon connecitons if anyone knows how.
Thanks for the tips. I'll run some more tests tomorrow. I did not know about conductive glue, so I'll use that as the next step if it isn't the black plug.
At this point I am not certain. One of the tines got crimped over for some reason and I straightened it out, but I have to take it apart again to test them.
The pic I posted is of my spare, but the spare has a bad one too. Who is selling replacements?
I have a complete rear cluster it was working fine before I removed the gauges ..cost is freebee You pay shipping ...just PM me your smail mail addy Regards And Merry Christmas
The paints can work but many times is only a temp fix for this use. Dash and rest of interior can reach 160-200°F easy when sun is out. Plastics can grow more when you heat up the parts. Window Glass gets hot but grows less then many plastics.
There were at least 2 types. One that I bought was the cheaper item, being under $20 for nickel alloy powder in the medium. The more expensive stuff was $75 and it was a 2 part epoxy, with copper powder. I expect the epoxy was the better choice but I didn't spring for it.
There is also a product for repairing anti-fog window grills. I don't know if it is epoxy but it is meant to deal with heat and cold.
