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Head Gasket ? by LorenBateman
Started on: 12-15-2014 05:07 PM
Replies: 5 (155 views)
Last post by: Francis T on 12-19-2014 12:16 PM
LorenBateman
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Report this Post12-15-2014 05:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LorenBatemanClick Here to Email LorenBatemanSend a Private Message to LorenBatemanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Driving home form work the other night(35 highway) and when i get to the end of the exit ramp i notice its missing,,i have spark on all the cyls but havent pulled any of the spark plugs in the back i also have a LARGE oil leak.Soooo head gasket? maybe?
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Neils88
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Report this Post12-15-2014 05:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Your best bet would be to do a wet/dry compression test. The dry compression test determines if there is a cylinder with low compression and the wet test (add a small amount of oil into the cylinder before testing) will narrow the problem to either the rings/cylinder walls or the valves/head gasket. Compression gauges are relatively inexpensive.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post12-15-2014 08:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Use a mirror and flash light and see if you can see where the oil is comeing from.
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LorenBateman
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Report this Post12-15-2014 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LorenBatemanClick Here to Email LorenBatemanSend a Private Message to LorenBatemanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
good call James tomarrow ill put it up on ramps and get some brake clean ty guys
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LornesGT
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Report this Post12-16-2014 06:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LornesGTSend a Private Message to LornesGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Mineral oil is the best thng I found to removing engine oil.
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Francis T
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Report this Post12-19-2014 12:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Francis TClick Here to visit Francis T's HomePageClick Here to Email Francis TSend a Private Message to Francis TEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Oil leak is likely the valve cover. Wipe the mess clean with mineral oil or kerosene, tighten the stews, run it, and check it again. As for the misfires; such is not a symptom of low compression, but rather an ignition problem. I post the below file often for problems like yours:


Your’s could be a common problem and don’t cost anything to check.
Try this:
Watch the tach when cranking if it don’t move you're not getting pulses from the distributor. If so, it could be a faulty module in it or more likely simply corroded connectors at the base of the distributor. Re-seating those connectors a few times could clean the pins some and also do the same to the connectors on the coil etc. These cars are old, and old connectors corrode. Such can also manifest itself as intermittent misfires, and engine cutouts.

BTW: lots of folks keep replacing modules and coils thinking they are bad because the new ones FIX the problem, when in actuality the fact that they simply unpluged the connectors and repluged them into the new unit cleaned the contacts enough to make it work again, at least for a while. It's smart, to replace those old connectors with new ones.
BTW: Cliphouse has those connectors Misfires are more likely ignition related than a low compression issue.

Additionally: Here's anther test you can do; with the engine warmed up and running, pull one plug wire at time and listen for a drop in RPMs. Any cylinder that does NOT drop RPM with the plug wire off has a problem. You can swap plug wires/spark plugs to determine which is at fault. Be aware; a weak plug or wire may work fine at idle yet fail under load.

[This message has been edited by Francis T (edited 12-20-2014).]

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