Found this old thread on custom aluminum lower strut spacers that were made for a race fiero. Rear Wheel Clearance This is exactly what I need to clear my custom Countach 15x12"wide tires/wheels as right now even with a 1/2" spacer I am 2-3mm's from the inner rim edge from hitting the rear spindle/hub bolt mounting area.
Sorry, Not that simple... They mod'ed/moved the top too. Look at mod to top and angle where meet the tower. The cable limits Camber change when wheel moves down when driving. (Strut setting and bumper limit camber when wheel moves up. setting likely lower the car.) Likely to save axles... Move Struts in lets wheel to move more the inner CV can take and/or Axle shalt might hit the cradle/frame. Inner CV have much less range of angle etc to do it's job.
Edit to add-> Does not look like an OE strut mod'ed to fit coil over.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by n_tensetuning: Looks like Held Motorsports used to make them, but they got bought out by Arraut Motorsports and they make them.
Is made to use w/ longer control arms etc. look at holes... Two sets are parallel and worse does not allow camber adjustment. Is missing oval shape hole and "ears" for use w/ cam bolts. maybe enough adjustment on strut itself. maybe not.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-14-2014).]
Here is my current dilemna Using 12mm 5x100 spacers on rear wheels, puts my 15x12" Replica Countach wheels/tires touching the outer rear wheelwells of the cars body. I cannot go outwards more. I barely clear the inner lip of the rear wheels against the top of the rear knuckles/spindles.
That's why I was wondering IF using Strut Spacers would help fix this problem..... Of course I could also perhaps grind the edge off the top of the knuckle/strut ears that would give me a little more clearance to the inner wheel lip/edge.
Photos of my car/problem
[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 12-14-2014).]
I've encountered a similar situation with other wheels. If the rear can be aligned without the strut hitting the inside of the wheel, then there's no need to worry about it. The two do not change relative to each other since the strut is firmly bolted to the knuckle and the knuckle and wheel are bolted together as one. The only problem I had was that I couldn't use clip-on weights on the inside of the wheel.
This was on my first Fiero. We found out when I had new tires installed and they balanced with clip-on weights on the inside. When we drove away from the tire bay, we had an awful screeching as the spring boss caught the weights and prevented them from moving with the tires.
Using 12mm 5x100 spacers on rear wheels, puts my 15x12" Replica Countach wheels/tires touching the outer rear wheelwells of the cars body. I cannot go outwards more. I barely clear the inner lip of the rear wheels against the top of the rear knuckles/spindles.
If you swap to the '88 cradle and correctly relocate the strut tops, you can gain some amount of inner lip clearance... maybe not enough to eliminate the spacer, but you will be able to reduce it.
I thought about the Strut Spacers idea more last night, and you guys are probably right that it would not help my situation because although the strut would move inwards 2", the bolt connection of knuckle to the strut spacer would still be in the same location. I'm sure another problem is I am using 15"wheels which don't clear the knuckle even with a wheel with more positive offset. If they were 17" the knuckle bolt connection could easily rest inside the wheel with the correct offset.
I thought about the 88 cradle. Does it really make wheels rest more towards the inside wheelwells? How much are we talking? 1/4"?
I am running the Grand Am front & rear vented Rotors/Calipers Mod.
But the clearance he needs Will is between the rim and the knuckle top, not to the strut per se. Do you know for sure that the top of the '88 knuckle is further inboard in relation to the wheel mounting flange than on the earlier cars?
That is exactly my problem. It's not the strut thats the problem. Its the 2 mounting bolts area of the knuckle. If only the 15" wheel could slip over the stock 86 knuckle I could get the rims remade with a more positive offset which would bring the wheel more in towards the shock.... but again we would hit the knuckle.
The fiberglassing-widening of the rear wheelwell arches is a last resort. I don't want to mess with the look of the Countach body as it is proportional. I even dremeled the inside fiberglass of the wheel well arch to allow for more travel of the superwide wheels-rims 15" x 12"wide w/Pirelli 345-35-zr15
Also, I wanted to clarify. I am running ElDorado Rear Brake Calipers with adapters made by (DPWood) one of the fellow members on here for my Rear Setup, with Grand Am Vented Rotors. I wonder IF something can be changed to allow the wheel to move more inwards but not touch the knuckle.
[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 12-15-2014).]
Get a thicker spacer for proper wheel/upright clearance and then section the lower control arm to pull the wheel back in (maybe 1/4 to 1/2"). The Tripods should have enough range of motion to accommodate this, but I would verify those. Also, this might make a slight change to the rear bump steer...
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-15-2014).]
The car is essentially an 86 v6 with original cradle, but lengthened 3" on the forward arms. Struts are mounted in stock location.
Right now the wheels clear the top bolt of the knuckles/spindles by just a tad, using 12mm spacers, but I would love to get rid of them to bring the wheel more in and clear the rear wheelwells that I already trimmed the inner lip/fiberglass down to practically 1/8" for tire/wheel travel clearance.