Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions
  Lower strut spacers-Strut blocks?

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


next newest topic | next oldest topic
Lower strut spacers-Strut blocks? by n_tensetuning
Started on: 12-14-2014 10:54 AM
Replies: 18 (620 views)
Last post by: Will on 12-16-2014 02:57 PM
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 10:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Found this old thread on custom aluminum lower strut spacers that were made for a race fiero.
Rear Wheel Clearance
This is exactly what I need to clear my custom Countach 15x12"wide tires/wheels as right now even with a 1/2" spacer I am 2-3mm's from the inner rim edge from hitting the rear spindle/hub bolt mounting area.



IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 11:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Looks like Held Motorsports used to make them, but they got bought out by Arraut Motorsports and they make them.

Pricey $200 pair available 2"-4"

Arraut Motorsports Strut Spacers


[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 12-14-2014).]

IP: Logged
theogre
Member
Posts: 29569
From: USA
Registered: Mar 99


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 552
Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry, Not that simple...
They mod'ed/moved the top too. Look at mod to top and angle where meet the tower.
The cable limits Camber change when wheel moves down when driving. (Strut setting and bumper limit camber when wheel moves up. setting likely lower the car.) Likely to save axles... Move Struts in lets wheel to move more the inner CV can take and/or Axle shalt might hit the cradle/frame. Inner CV have much less range of angle etc to do it's job.

Edit to add-> Does not look like an OE strut mod'ed to fit coil over.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-14-2014).]

IP: Logged
theogre
Member
Posts: 29569
From: USA
Registered: Mar 99


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 552
Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 11:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by n_tensetuning:
Looks like Held Motorsports used to make them, but they got bought out by Arraut Motorsports and they make them.

Is made to use w/ longer control arms etc.
look at holes... Two sets are parallel and worse does not allow camber adjustment.
Is missing oval shape hole and "ears" for use w/ cam bolts.
maybe enough adjustment on strut itself. maybe not.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-14-2014).]

IP: Logged
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 09:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here is my current dilemna
Using 12mm 5x100 spacers on rear wheels, puts my 15x12" Replica Countach wheels/tires touching the outer rear wheelwells of the cars body. I cannot go outwards more.
I barely clear the inner lip of the rear wheels against the top of the rear knuckles/spindles.

That's why I was wondering IF using Strut Spacers would help fix this problem.....
Of course I could also perhaps grind the edge off the top of the knuckle/strut ears that would give me a little more clearance to the inner wheel lip/edge.

Photos of my car/problem


[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 12-14-2014).]

IP: Logged
theogre
Member
Posts: 29569
From: USA
Registered: Mar 99


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 552
Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 10:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
nope. won't help. both mount same as strut.

2 options...
grind off and hope doesn't cause knuckle problem.
get different rims w/ correct offset for width used.

note that hub bearing do have some play because are not preloaded.
driving can beat the rim against knuckle/strut on rough roads, RR crossing, etc, w/o enough clearance.
IP: Logged
fierofool
Member
Posts: 11906
From: Auburn, Georgia USA
Registered: Jan 2002


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 151
Rate this member

Report this Post12-14-2014 11:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've encountered a similar situation with other wheels. If the rear can be aligned without the strut hitting the inside of the wheel, then there's no need to worry about it. The two do not change relative to each other since the strut is firmly bolted to the knuckle and the knuckle and wheel are bolted together as one. The only problem I had was that I couldn't use clip-on weights on the inside of the wheel.

This was on my first Fiero. We found out when I had new tires installed and they balanced with clip-on weights on the inside. When we drove away from the tire bay, we had an awful screeching as the spring boss caught the weights and prevented them from moving with the tires.
IP: Logged
Will
Member
Posts: 13581
From: Where you least expect me
Registered: Jun 2000


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 234
Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 08:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by n_tensetuning:

Using 12mm 5x100 spacers on rear wheels, puts my 15x12" Replica Countach wheels/tires touching the outer rear wheelwells of the cars body. I cannot go outwards more.
I barely clear the inner lip of the rear wheels against the top of the rear knuckles/spindles.



If you swap to the '88 cradle and correctly relocate the strut tops, you can gain some amount of inner lip clearance... maybe not enough to eliminate the spacer, but you will be able to reduce it.
IP: Logged
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 09:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I thought about the Strut Spacers idea more last night, and you guys are probably right that it would not help my situation because although the strut would move inwards 2", the bolt connection of knuckle to the strut spacer would still be in the same location.
I'm sure another problem is I am using 15"wheels which don't clear the knuckle even with a wheel with more positive offset. If they were 17" the knuckle bolt connection could easily rest inside the wheel with the correct offset.

I thought about the 88 cradle. Does it really make wheels rest more towards the inside wheelwells? How much are we talking? 1/4"?

I am running the Grand Am front & rear vented Rotors/Calipers Mod.

IP: Logged
Bloozberry
Member
Posts: 7760
From:
Registered: Jan 2009


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 308
Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 01:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Since it's a Countach kit, the easiest solution (and possibly the cheapest) would be to flare the fenders a bit more. Reworking fiberglass is a lot easier than reworking the suspension.
IP: Logged
Will
Member
Posts: 13581
From: Where you least expect me
Registered: Jun 2000


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 234
Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by n_tensetuning:

I thought about the 88 cradle. Does it really make wheels rest more towards the inside wheelwells? How much are we talking? 1/4"?


The hub flanges are in teh same position, but the strut tops are closer together... the struts angle in more, making more clearance to a 15 or 16 inch wheel than the early suspension.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Bloozberry
Member
Posts: 7760
From:
Registered: Jan 2009


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 308
Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
But the clearance he needs Will is between the rim and the knuckle top, not to the strut per se. Do you know for sure that the top of the '88 knuckle is further inboard in relation to the wheel mounting flange than on the earlier cars?
IP: Logged
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 04:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dave/Bloozberry

That is exactly my problem. It's not the strut thats the problem. Its the 2 mounting bolts area of the knuckle.
If only the 15" wheel could slip over the stock 86 knuckle I could get the rims remade with a more positive offset which would bring the wheel more in towards the shock.... but again we would hit the knuckle.

The fiberglassing-widening of the rear wheelwell arches is a last resort. I don't want to mess with the look of the Countach body as it is proportional.
I even dremeled the inside fiberglass of the wheel well arch to allow for more travel of the superwide wheels-rims 15" x 12"wide w/Pirelli 345-35-zr15

Also, I wanted to clarify. I am running ElDorado Rear Brake Calipers with adapters made by (DPWood) one of the fellow members on here for my Rear Setup, with Grand Am Vented Rotors.
I wonder IF something can be changed to allow the wheel to move more inwards but not touch the knuckle.

D

[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 12-15-2014).]

IP: Logged
fieroguru
Member
Posts: 11411
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (45)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 255
Rate this member

Report this Post12-15-2014 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Get a thicker spacer for proper wheel/upright clearance and then section the lower control arm to pull the wheel back in (maybe 1/4 to 1/2"). The Tripods should have enough range of motion to accommodate this, but I would verify those. Also, this might make a slight change to the rear bump steer...

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-15-2014).]

IP: Logged
Will
Member
Posts: 13581
From: Where you least expect me
Registered: Jun 2000


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 234
Rate this member

Report this Post12-16-2014 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

Do you know for sure that the top of the '88 knuckle is further inboard in relation to the wheel mounting flange than on the earlier cars?


Yes. That's why I'm recommending it.

I can probably dig up one of each to take photos of, but probably not before the weekend.

Has the cradle been modified?

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 12-16-2014).]

IP: Logged
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-16-2014 11:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi Will

The car is essentially an 86 v6 with original cradle, but lengthened 3" on the forward arms.
Struts are mounted in stock location.

Right now the wheels clear the top bolt of the knuckles/spindles by just a tad, using 12mm spacers, but I would love to get rid of them to bring the wheel more in and clear the rear wheelwells that I already trimmed the inner lip/fiberglass down to practically 1/8" for tire/wheel travel clearance.

D
IP: Logged
Will
Member
Posts: 13581
From: Where you least expect me
Registered: Jun 2000


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 234
Rate this member

Report this Post12-16-2014 12:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't think you'll be able to get rid of the spacer, but you'll definitely be able to go to a significantly thinner one.

You'll need to find an '88 cradle and rear suspension and find someone who can do the same mods to the '88 cradle as were done to your current cradle.

You'll also need these:



From here (Ctrl-F "’88 Engine Cradle Adapters"):

http://www.arrautmotorsports.com/parts/suspensions
IP: Logged
n_tensetuning
Member
Posts: 154
From: CT, USA
Registered: Dec 2008


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post12-16-2014 02:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n_tensetuningClick Here to Email n_tensetuningSend a Private Message to n_tensetuningEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
thanks Will.

Did so more research and came across a post here on the forum by another guy with a Fiero based Countach using Countach 15" x 12" wheels.
(Note)
"On a Countach replica with 12" wide wheels on Fiero suspension, the wheels need to be this close or they wind up sticking out of the flares"
my 89 Countach replica build thread / What trans do I have in my Lambo replica



Would love to see some pics of a wheel rear mounted on a 84-87 vs 88 to see the relation to the wheel well lip/offset.

D
IP: Logged
Will
Member
Posts: 13581
From: Where you least expect me
Registered: Jun 2000


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 234
Rate this member

Report this Post12-16-2014 02:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by n_tensetuning:

Would love to see some pics of a wheel rear mounted on a 84-87 vs 88 to see the relation to the wheel well lip/offset.


I don't think I have any extra wheels/bearings around to do that, but I am pretty sure I have both types of bare knuckles around and can compare.
IP: Logged

next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock