This is on my 86 SE V6, and the hardest cylinder to get to ;-)
The middle plug:
It separated from the steel but I cannot get a socket on anything in the hole, but I also cannot get the new plug started on anything, so it seems like something is still there. The top plug I took off the trunk side of the motor and it was a bit difficult to get the socket on, but it feels like the steel separated from the threaded area and the threads are still in the block, the new bosch plugs I have don't look like that could happened.
spray outside w/ rust breaking oil for a day or three then carefully use ezout. If ground terminal breaks Make sure you have that before you install new plug and start the engine. Metal crap will the cylinder.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Agreed, I had the same thing with my daughters Aerostar. It can get a little scary, but at that point it was either it broke loose or the head had to come off. It took a lot of force, but it broke loose.
looks like your threaded end is still in the hole--I couldn't find the link, but another member (steve308) had the same thing happen--he used heat and freeze and a LARGE E-Z out and got it removed--you should soak the area with PB blaster, break free whatever your choice---also be careful about getting stuff in the hole or you will have to remove the head--good luck you might want to take it to the shop and let them do it
a 5/16" hex socket can be tapped into the hole where the porcelain was, and it should come right out. But Definitely Use PB blaster around the threads first (Drown It !)
Been there, done that- got the tee shirt. Use lots of PB blaster - get the easy out in as straight as you can - and apply slow and steady pressure - I made the breaker bar adapter with and old socket to hold the EZ out. If it doesn't come out don't force it - spray more let it soak and come back later. I also had an old propane tip that I bent to apply heat and also use some r 134 to freeze the area around the plug. Try only the penetrant spray first and multiple times. As you can see from the pic it came out after it grabbed onto the electrode. PM me if you need the size of the EZ out -I have it hanging on the wall in the garage. Oh --when you are successful - anti seize is your friend.
I have a kit now that I was trying on it, its a hex head remover that requires me to beat it in, which you can expect is going as well as it sounds....
That EZ out is a no.5. I centered and then hammered it into a old 3/8 inch 3/8 drive socket so that I could with an adapter step it up to my 1/2 drive breaker bar. As I posted earlier - start it as straight in as you can, spray with penetrating oil and be patient, go slow and easy. If the tip breaks off - the head has to come off. Good luck. OBTY - I now break my plugs loose and retighten once a year.
Extractor no.5 got it out in just a few minutes, didn't run into any problems. All 3 plugs on the backside were not in good shape. I suppose I need to put more weatherstripping there and take them out more often.
Don't use a 12 point socket, use a 6 point it is much less likely to round off the lands on the plug. You can try vinegar for a few days, it eats rust and may make the socket fit better.
A lil FYI : Spark plugs should be torque o 20 - 28 Foot-LBS and even lower in aluminium heads.
a 5/16" HEX Socket taps into the hole perfectly, (easy outs tend to expand the plug and make it even tighter). some PB Blaster, and it should come right out.
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