One common one for the ICM is that the car dies instantly at speed in hot conditions. Driving down the freeway and BAM....your foot goes to the floor and there is nothing. Then after a 5 minute wait at the side of the road, everything is OK .....'til it gets hot again. There are other ways for it to fail...
The pickup coil tends to skip a few sparks..acting more like a miss in the engine....but not a predictable miss....sort of random.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 11-24-2014).]
It's interesting... you often hear of ICM and pick-up coil replacement being done on the 2.8, but very seldom (if ever!) on the '84-'86 duke.
I guess one reason for that is the location of the distributor on these engines. It's a much cooler location on the duke, probably resulting in much longer electrical component life.
It's interesting... you often hear of ICM and pick-up coil replacement being done on the 2.8, but very seldom (if ever!) on the '84-'86 duke.
I guess one reason for that is the location of the distributor on these engines. It's a much cooler location on the duke, probably resulting in much longer electrical component life.
Good to know, as I was just asking a few weeks back why my car suddenly died twice restarting immediately each time. has not happened since. ICM and other ignition parts are all new, minus distributor and pick up.
Well the trouble that I am having is this. Start the car and fine, drive it so far and fine, the thing that I noticed lately is when it gets hot it starts to miss, it could be a real bad fit of it or it could be just a little miss and no big deal or every now and then. When she is working fine, she is like a new car.
So far it's new AC Delco plugs last year with about 3000klm on them if that, new ignition coil tonight, new cap and rotor button, all the harnesses going to the coil and the distributor are clean. I took the ICM out and the pins looked fine, the pick up coil harness looks clean and good. I am waiting on new spark plug wires, having said that I removed the wires a month or so ago and the clip in the wire stayed on the spark plug, took it the wire part and crimped it back on and done the same thing again a month or so after that checking compression. Put it all back together and way to go. Also the boot on that wire ended up having a crack in it so I used black tape to wrap around it.
So I guess I am down to the wires and/or the pick up coil could be the problem. Also I changed over a CTS. I checked the O2 sensor tonight with the car running and the voltage i around .5 to .65 volts which is better then before I had the other CTS and the coil.
Question if I disconnected the O2 sensor while the car was running would I see a difference in idling or anything?
Just come in my mind, would the oil pressure sensor have anything to do with a miss? My needle is always flickering, but that just could be the gage. Also, if the sensor is at the front of the motor then the connections are corroded.
It's unlikely the oil pressure switch would create your symptoms. The symptoms are that of the Ignition Control Module circuit breaking down. I've had them fail completely and then work again when they cooled down.
Something you should do regarding your spark plug wires when you replace them. If you have any of the metal insulators, use them on the front bank of plug boots nearest the passenger compartment. They are most beneficial there because you can't get a good grip on the boot like you can on the trunk side, and if you have six put them on all the plug boots. I believe they may still be available at dealers or parts stores.
Purchase a tube of Dielectric tuneup Grease at your local auto parts store and apply a liberal amount inside the plug boot before installing it onto the plug. It not only helps keep water out but acts as a lubricant to prevent the boot from seizing to the spark plug ceramic insulator. The metal insulator further helps to exert even force across the full length of the boot so that you can give it a twist while pulling to remove it. If the boot is stuck, the even force will break it loose instead of twisting it off, usually even with the top of the plug. It doesn't take long for a dry plug boot to bond to the spark plug.
It seems to me like something is breaking down too. Looking at all the parts in the distributor and the ignition coil it's all original. So maybe it's time to replace some of it. I know behind the module in the distributor it was pretty dirty, not sure if that makes a difference or not.
Never knew about the magnet but that makes sense when you think about it. Where is it loacated, under the pick up coil? If that is a problem where do you buy the magnet/s?
I replaced the wires and so far on some quick runs it works fine, the pinging is gone, idles smoother and wants to idle at the normal idle mark. Going to take it to work tomorrow about 40 miles so I should know then. I also replaced the EGR valve since when I got the car there was neither one there.
