So...thought I'd do something nice for the ol Fiero and change out the fuel filter. Got both wrenches on and squeezed em both to loosen the fitting, and the hard fuel line cracks. As usual a little preventive maintenance turns into an ordeal...
Does anyone have thoughts on removing the lines from fuel rail to filter and replacing with the push-lock type hose? Right now it goes: fitting, hardline, fitting, rubber/braided hose, fitting, hardline, fitting, fuel filter.
No no no! You'll get a whippin when your papa gets home!
Coolant hose won't stand up to gasoline, let alone the pressure.
Quick release on a pressurized fuel line - don't think so.
I bit the bullet and got all the TFS lines, feed, return, and the other two. I also got some fuel injector clamps. I want to get stainless ones, but the closest seem to be at NAPA and only the screw is stainless.
The hose has to be fuel injector hose, not fuel line. It's much more expensive for a reason.
I looked at it again yesterday. I'm going to need hoses as well, and probably have to have someone do it because there seem to be hard lines coming out of the tank above the filler neck. I just don't see myself making connections up there under a car on jackstands.
So...thought I'd do something nice for the ol Fiero and change out the fuel filter. Got both wrenches on and squeezed em both to loosen the fitting, and the hard fuel line cracks. As usual a little preventive maintenance turns into an ordeal...
Just to perhaps prevent other people from having this problem... soak the fittings with penetrating oil for awhile before using two flare nut wrenches to loosen the fuel filter connections.
I looked at it again yesterday. I'm going to need hoses as well, and probably have to have someone do it because there seem to be hard lines coming out of the tank above the filler neck. I just don't see myself making connections up there under a car on jackstands.
Get that heat shield out of the way (four screws) and you'll have lots more access.
Not quick release, they're all threaded fittings except where the hose pushes onto the barb. But quick release is somewhat standard in today's cars. I'm not sure what the issue with the hose would be...it's for fuel applications and rated to 350psi - almost 10 times our fuel pressure.
According to the Parker catalog, 801 Plus hose is NOT suitable for fuel
Restrictions Not permitted for use in air brake systems. Not suitable for high dynamic pulsation systems. Not recommended for fuels (petrol, diesel etc.). Not recommended for mineral based hydraulic and lubricating oils. Construction Tube: Synthetic rubber Reinforcement: High-tensile fibre braid Cover: High performance synthetic rubber in different colours Temperature Range ............. -40 °C up to +100 °C Exception: Air .................................... max. +70 °C Water ............................... max. +85 °C Recommended Fluids Air, water, water-oil-emulsions and water-glycol-emulsions. Consult the chemical compatibility section on pages Ab-22 to Ab-30 for more detailed information.
I second the suggestion to buy the pre-made feed and return lines. Its money well spent and they fit just like the original. I'm all in favor of fabbing stuff but not re-inventing the whole system with hose barbs and too much rubber line.
Thank you! If you change it you have to reroute and that can be tricky and critical. I think it has to be at least six inches from any exhaust and ten inches from the cat, plus the belts, pulleys, rubbing, chaffing, plus you don't want it getting snagged by road debris. The service manual says no more than ten inches of hose in one piece. The right lines put the filter in it's mount, which might have saved you all this trouble in the first place.
[This message has been edited by 85 SE VIN 9 (edited 11-11-2014).]
The hose is heated, barb lubed up, and then you take a rubber mallet and put em together; specific note to not use clamps. Ebay listing said for fuel/coolant use, but perhaps it's incorrect. No biggie...so replace the push-lock hose and barbed connection with a braided steel line?
Thank you! If you change it you have to reroute and that can be tricky and critical. I think it has to be at least six inches from any exhaust and ten inches from the cat, plus the belts, pulleys, rubbing, chaffing, plus you don't want it getting snagged by road debris. The service manual says no more than ten inches of hose in one piece. The right lines put the filter in it's mount, which might have saved you all this trouble in the first place.
To be clear, that picture is not my setup. My problem arose from not giving enough time between lubing the existing connections and trying to loosen the fitting, thus resulting in the hard line cracking. The filter is in its original location and secured by the appropriate bracket.
The hose is heated, barb lubed up, and then you take a rubber mallet and put em together; specific note to not use clamps. Ebay listing said for fuel/coolant use, but perhaps it's incorrect. No biggie...so replace the push-lock hose and barbed connection with a braided steel line?