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Alternate Clutch Bleed Method by Formula88
Started on: 11-08-2014 12:32 PM
Replies: 7 (206 views)
Last post by: rourke_87_T-Top on 11-10-2014 08:32 AM
Formula88
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Report this Post11-08-2014 12:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Formula88Send a Private Message to Formula88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I haven't tried this, but it looks interesting. I've always bled air out of the slave, either by gravity bleeding, pumping the pedal or using a vacuum pump at the bleed screw. This looks like a great way to bench bleed/test a system. Not sure how well it would work in the car with clearance to everything.



Anyone try this? What were your experiences?
What I really like about this method is you never loosen the slave bleeder screw, so there's no chance for air to get in there.

[This message has been edited by Formula88 (edited 11-08-2014).]

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Report this Post11-08-2014 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sco77Click Here to Email sco77Send a Private Message to sco77Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Would never work in a Fiero because you can't remove it like that, doing it in the car would take like 10x as long of a process, as conventional bleeding. It would be an extreme pain in the ass.

------------------
86 Fiero GT: 3800sc/Manual, Cam/Mods.

[This message has been edited by sco77 (edited 11-08-2014).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post11-08-2014 02:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I also don't like the idea of only adding brake fluid (and removing air) as opposed to flushing the system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and it needs to be changed out to prevent corrosion in the hydraulic system.

I find the best method of removing air and flushing the clutch hydraulic system is to pressure bleed it.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-08-2014).]

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newfiejeff
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Report this Post11-08-2014 03:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Since I bought my fiero last year and had nothing but trouble with the slave cylinder, bleeding every few days I found gravity feeding was the key. I bought a Rodney's cylinder, bled it and never looked behind the seat..lol.
Thanks to the experts here!!
How many of us would put the GM mechanics to shame in the days of the Fiero!!!
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Formula88
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Report this Post11-08-2014 06:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Formula88Send a Private Message to Formula88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I also don't like the idea of only adding brake fluid (and removing air) as opposed to flushing the system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and it needs to be changed out to prevent corrosion in the hydraulic system.

I find the best method of removing air and flushing the clutch hydraulic system is to pressure bleed it.



I'm looking at flushing and bleeding as two separate goals. If you're installing a new system, flushing is irrelevant.
I do like it as a way to bench test the entire system, but as was already mentioned I don't see it being useful to install as an assembled unit on a Fiero.
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Patrick
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Report this Post11-08-2014 06:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Formula88:

I'm looking at flushing and bleeding as two separate goals.


IMO, pressure bleeding is the superior method for either goal... but optional methods that work are welcomed, especially if a pressure bleeder isn't available.
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rourke_87_T-Top
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Report this Post11-10-2014 08:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rourke_87_T-TopClick Here to Email rourke_87_T-TopSend a Private Message to rourke_87_T-TopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pressure bleeding from the clutch master works very well, especially if you are working by yourself, I have done it this way for several years, it is a bit more tedious if you are starting from an empty line but it removes all the air from the system, works very well to remove the last few bubbles. You don't need to remove anything from the car except the cap.
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rourke_87_T-Top
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Report this Post11-10-2014 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rourke_87_T-TopClick Here to Email rourke_87_T-TopSend a Private Message to rourke_87_T-TopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you have any air in the system right now, go outside and try this, step # 1. pump it up several times. step # 2. take the clutch master cylinder cap off, if you have any air in your system you will see small bubbles rising through the fluid. It's just like shaking up a bottle of pop and then taking the cap off, under pressure the air wants to escape.
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