The console surround that is where the stick shifter is on my 85 fiero has that padded vinyl separating from the plastic base. It's on the edges that it is most apparent where the foam underlayment has unglued itself from the plastic base. What is the best glue to use to re adhere that padded vinyl back to the plastic underlayment? I was thinking either gorilla glue or weldwood contact cement.
I used Gorilla Glue. Due to Texas heat all my interior pieces were peeling at the edge. I scraped off the foam at the edge of the vinyl so that the bond would be with the plastic and the vinyl. The foam could potentially peel if the vinyl shrank again. I also used binder clamps to clamp the vinyl while the glue cured. Harbor Freight also has somei inexpensive adjustable plastic clamps that work we'll.
You may not be aware of the SEARCH feature....if you switch to 'archives' and try out a few different search words, you will get many threads on the topics you are interested in. As for the console, there are a number of discussions, mostly using gorilla glue and lots of clamps.
One important thing to note is outer plastic (vinyl?) shrinks over time because of sunlight and heat etc. IMO to do a really good job make the inner plastic frame slightly smaller. Maybe take out some of the foam if there is foam under the outer plastic covering. The outer cover will fit better and have less pressure against the glue.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
I need to do this myself, so I started searching. I use this search on Google as it aggregates the links a bit better "Gorilla site:www.fiero.nl" or "glue site:www.fiero.nl" In fact, you can use the "xyx site:www.xyz.com" within Google search for anything, works a treat
Rodney has a good point about removing some of the foam. For one, it will later separate from the other surface. Gorilla Glue will work pretty good, but I've had some that didn't hold very long. I have some GOOP Marine Adhesive that I plan to try on my next repair jobs. I have it in a big caulking tube, but it is available in smaller size tubes, too. I know from using it on my boat that it's very strong and flexible and it dries clear. It bonds well to plastics and vinyl. I never had a problem with separation after it cured.
Look on Mr Mike's site, he mentions using staples rather than glue. I went this way, and was happy with the results. You do HAVE to use an upholstery stapler, This will shoot staples about 3/8" crown, but very fine gauge. I used stainless, 1/4" leg staples. Works better if your part is up around 100 degrees - parts are much more pliable. Paid about $80 for a brand new Porter-Cable and has been useful for many projects.
Problem is that the plastic is so old and already cracked a bunch of times so that i had to practically coat the whole plastic insert with JB weld. I don't know if stapling would just shatter the part but I guess with the JB weld coating it might hold up.
I have successfully reworked two center consoles with Gorilla Glue and have been very happy with the results. I did have to do some hand clean up due to the expanding nature of this glue. I very carefully used a scalpel and the work did not take more than 20 minutes to complete. If you really overdo the glue quantity I expect that clean up could be significantly extended.
I've used Gorilla Glue (in the bottle, not the spray) for 4 or 5 of the console and gauge pods in the last few years and they've all held up great in 80-90 degree summers here.
I think the secret is to use a clamp to hold things together while it dry's overnight. You probably won't be able to clamp all sides at once so you might have to apply it in several steps.
Hope your project goes well, post pic's and let us know what you used for glue if you can.
------------------ "Because in a split second, It's gone"
Sorry, no pictures, mine are all installed. Worked well, but the plastic was in good shape already, not dried out or fragile. Also used this method on the console door, and the armrest,
I used loctite super glue all on the ones I have done. It dries faster than the other glues thus it is easier to work with as you don't have to wait over night for each step.
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 11-13-2014).]
Hey "sardonyx247" I like the lock tight super glue idea, it would definitely speed up the process! I had tried this on one previously but didn't have total success. I don't remember if it was the lock tight brand though, the stuff I used was a non drip kind. Question, did you use anything special to clean / prep the surface to be glued first? I might try the lock tight super glue, I hate waiting for stuff to dry! ------------------ "Because in a split second, It's gone" Ayrton Senna
[This message has been edited by Ponnari (edited 11-13-2014).]
I just blew it out with an air hose, otherwise use rubbing alcohol to clean it. I still use clamps and paint stiring sticks as it wont leave an impression on the vinyl. Do small sections at a time as the glue does dry semi fast. Loctite brand is the best super glue I have ever used, it beats all other glues hands down, it is a cyanoacrylate glue and they add rubber witch makes it very strong, don't ask me why it does but it does. I did my consol like 10 years ago and it gets HOT here in Vegas, still looks new. It does take a little longer to dry here as it cures due to the humidity in the air, and we have none here. I gave up on super glues untill I tried loctite, just awesome.
