Just throwing this out there. Thinking of moving the front crossmember rearword a few inches . Couldn't find anything in the archives. Has this been done and does anyone believe it can be ?

Boz

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http://i252.photobucket.com...ec/2007_12240001.jpg

When you move it forward (for more engine room N* and LS(x)), the cradle gets wider, so most replace it with something. When you move it rearward, it will need to get narrower, which is helpful as cutting it free right at the cradle can be a little difficult and you lose a little width in the process. On the 88's the parking brake cables pass through it and a slot on the DS, so you just need to make sure the slot goes that far back.

The question is why?
If you are stretching the chassis, most do it in front of the front crossmember so they don't have to mess with moving it in addition to lengthening the cradle.

quote Originally posted by Bozzie: Just throwing this out there. Thinking of moving the front crossmember rearword a few inches . Couldn't find anything in the archives. Has this been done and does anyone believe it can be ? Boz

The front suspension?

Paul.....thanks for your input. Im actually talking about the front crossmember .....the one the front suspension mounts to. Im thinking of moving it back 1 or 2 ". Im going to put it back on the lift and check it to see what I would need to do. Maybe shorten the steering joint I would assume and redrill the holes for the x member forward just as much ? Lengthin the front mount and shorten the rearward mound ..... Im thinking look wise it would look better more rearward and closer to the door jamb ...especially with the widebody...Having already stretched the rear 3.25" then moving the front back 1-2" would give it a more "cab forward" stance ? .also leaving the nose the same length but adding to the front of the wheel opening to compensate for the shift...which would also make the nose look longer thou its the same. Wondering if someone has already done this...thought of this ? maybe in the kit world ? Anybody with photoshop skills I would appreciate it if you could mock it up .....

Boz

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http://i252.photobucket.com...ec/2007_12240001.jpg

It's an '88 right? Here are a few things that you'll have to consider:

- Shortening the steering column;
- Depending how large your wheels are, you may have to move the metal wheel arches rearward, which will also decrease room in the foot well;
- Modify your heater pipes;
- Modify the forward arms on the cross member since they meet up with the lower frame rails at an angle and can't simply be slid backwards;
- Move the 8 (?) captured nuts that are inside the lower frame rail rearward; and
- Modify the brake lines.

Edit to add: if you need to move the metal arches back, that may also interfere with the door hinges.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 10-26-2014).]

The rear pivots of the lower control arms will likely hit the frame rails.

I think you would have better luck making new upper and lower A-arms that allow you to place the hub wherever you want. you would also need to rework the upper shock mount (and most likely utilize coil-overs)

Taste is subjective, but the nose is already 8" too long...IMO.

^my thoughts exactly, the front wheels should be pushed towards the nose!

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1987 Fiero GTX 3800 Turbo... My Build, ST3 Cam, Lowered, Wheels, and pics enjoy!https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/089483.html