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New clutch in my fresh 4.9 swap will not disengage by Meanspiritdave
Started on: 10-22-2014 11:05 AM
Replies: 49 (831 views)
Last post by: Meanspiritdave on 11-11-2014 02:27 PM
Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-06-2014 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Progress. We decided to try something that Joe found online. We took apart the original slave cylinder, placed a 1" bolt in the barrel, put it back together and put it on the car. And wouldn't you know that worked. BUT, once the car is in gear you can hear what sounds like a hissing or rubbing sound. ??? Here is a link to a video I took, you can hear what I'm talking about.

Video of Fiero moving
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Raydar
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Report this Post11-06-2014 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New flywheel and clutch disk?
I'm guessing it's the rough surfaces of the disk and flywheel rubbing together. That's assuming you were slipping the clutch the entire time that sound was present.
I didn't hear that with mine, but I have an organic disk, and wasn't really listening for it anyway.
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Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-06-2014 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, new clutch and flywheel. That makes sense. Since I was only moving about 5-6 feet the clutch was not fully engaged. I guess we need to be brave and try a road test. Thanks!!
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Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-07-2014 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
More info...despite having fought the new slave cylinder (cast iron unit from Oreillys) we wound up going with the old one that was on the car when I got it. After placing a 1" bolt in the barrel of the old slave it gave us the proper amount of travel. Also in the middle of this struggle I managed to break off a corner of the slave cylinder bracket, right thru where the studs went. Oops. So we took a piece of an unused Fiero engine mount, cut out a flat rectangle and made a plate that slid inside the bracket and allowed to bolt it all back together. The broken corner has been JB Welded on, we hadn't drilled the holes for the studs when I took this picture.


[This message has been edited by Meanspiritdave (edited 11-07-2014).]

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Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-07-2014 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here is a pic showing the distance traveled by the arm using the old slave. The red marks are for the old slave, and the yellow marks are from the half dozen times we tried different settings etc with the new slave.

[This message has been edited by Meanspiritdave (edited 11-07-2014).]

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Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-10-2014 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey everyone, I wanted to give you an update. The clutch issue has been resolved. It was a combination of a bent clutch pedal and the slave cylinder rod not traveling far enough. So after purchasing a pedal from the Fiero Store and modifying the slave by placing a 1" bold inside the barrel did the trick. Thanks everyone!
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Patrick
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Report this Post11-11-2014 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Meanspiritdave:

Progress. We decided to try something that Joe found online. We took apart the original slave cylinder, placed a 1" bolt in the barrel, put it back together and put it on the car. And wouldn't you know that worked.


 
quote
Originally posted by Meanspiritdave:

...modifying the slave by placing a 1" bold inside the barrel did the trick.


You put a 1" bolt inside the slave cylinder ???

I can't say I've ever heard that type of mod suggested here over the last 15 years. Glad to hear your clutch appears to work... but I'd be a little apprehensive about this modification.
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Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-11-2014 10:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Of course, now that I'm looking for the links to the threads that gave me the idea to try this, I can't find them. I have to admit, I'm not 100% comfortable with this particular modification of the slave cylinder. The alternative is to create a longer rod. The problem was that the slave was bottoming out before it hit the required distance it needed to disengage the clutch.It was the old slave that we modified, and we still have the new Oreilly cast iron unit. We might make a longer rod and swap.
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Neils88
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Report this Post11-11-2014 01:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Click Here to Email Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The best and safest method is to make the correct length rod. I'd be worried that the bolt will eventually score the inside of the cylinder resulting in early failure.
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Meanspiritdave
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Report this Post11-11-2014 02:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MeanspiritdaveClick Here to Email MeanspiritdaveSend a Private Message to MeanspiritdaveEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Agreed
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