Hey guys, ran a search but couldn't dig much up. I'm new to a floating cylinder setup, and I'm building a 4.9 from (complete & reconditioned) parts. I've got most of the kinks worked out, but I have one more huge obstacle in my way before I can start bolting things together: the cylinder sleeves. The bores are all in good shape, but several of the sleeves lost seal at some point and were so loose that I worry the alignment is off now. The pistons and sleeves I have were both stock. I have brand new rubber liner seals, but I'm not sure where to go from here: is there any way to find the proper alignment so that I can use the sleeves I have? I can imagine I'd know where the problems were by the time I could run a compression check, but no thanks. In the event I need to resleeve the block, can I do so with my pistons? If the bores were recently machined (I'm in contact with the seller still - I know the block was cleaned, don't know the extent of the machine work) and the pistons are reconditioned, will I be able to match them up again? Am I looking at brand new pistons AND sleeves? Should I just find a different block? Thanks, guys.

P.S. I can post pictures if needed for some reason.

I know of one person who was attempting to rebuild a 4.9 at that level. He decided that dealing with the sleeves was more trouble than it was worth, and decided to do something different.
There may be someone here who has had some success, but 4.9s still seem to be common (and cheap) enough that most people just go and find another one if they frag theirs.

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Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550

Praise the Lowered!

If all you are doing is resealing the sleeves then it is not a problem.

The cylinder sleeves must remain in the same location and orientation. This is the first rule. Very important to reduce the amount of work/measuring needed.

Just mark the sleeves so they stay correct or do them one at a time. After that you can pull them out, clean the sealing surface, and replace the o-rings. I also add a little Hylomar to the o-rings for added insurance. Then put them back in the same location and orientation. Very easy to do and pretty hard to mess up. Don't stress too much about them. They are much easier then the northstar sleeves.

The sleeves are much easier to do then it is to get to them.

If the sleeves are already out of the engine then there is a process to finding the correct order and re-installing them. Its not fun if they were not marked with cylinder # and orientation but it can be done. I can scan some pages from the factory service manual if you need to go this route.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 10-14-2014).]

I would think it is more important that the Cylinders Match the PISTONS. if they were not marked, you'll have to measure both the pitons and cylinders to come up with the proper clearances. My "opinion", At $150 for the whole engine (U pull price) be a lot easier to just get another engine.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: I would think it is more important that the Cylinders Match the PISTONS. if they were not marked, you'll have to measure both the pitons and cylinders to come up with the proper clearances. My "opinion", At $150 for the whole engine (U pull price) be a lot easier to just get another engine.

In order to properly seal the cooling jacked from the bores and crank case, make sure the bore axes intersect the crank axis and are perpendicular to the deck surface and generally make sure the engine runs right, the sleeves need to be a tight fit in the block.

Bud's Outback in Tucson, AZ used to do a lot with 4.9's, including resleeving them for significantly bigger bores. I think that shop used to be involved with the Team Python autocross car which was one of the first 4.9 swaps. Bud may be able to help you out.

http://gr8grip.com/index.htm